removing the valve cover

[jonr]

Well, I'm searching the website o' great wisdom and wanted to know if anyone has any tips on removing the valve cover bolts on my gs1100g. Just twist off slow? Impact driver?

I entered endless search combinations using the GSR's search feature and came up with mostly leak issues. Anybody have any advice on this one? After I get it off, it's time to check the valve clearences too...

thanks-
J

[diesel]

Removing Bolts?

Don't know why removing the bolts would be a problem. Valve cover bolts are just ordinary bolts. 10MM wrench if I recall correctly.

Now I wouldn't be surprised if you had some trouble removing the cover after they're all out. If the cover is stuck I usually use try a couple of taps with a rubber mallet.

[DimitriT]

They should twist right off with your metric wrench unless they are heavily corroded. If that's the case I would squirt some penetrating oil on them the day before. You really shouldn't need an impact driver as they shouldn't be torqued down too much to begin with. The real trick to getting the cover off is the damn paper/glue gasket will not come apart without drastic measures. I had to resort to tapping a thin metal spatula into the corners to help it break loose. Again, penetrating oil may help soften it up from the outside. Once you do get them apart you will want to have a rag handy to stuff down the timing chain channel in order to keep crap from getting down there. Then comes the fun part of cleaning the surfaces for the new gasket. I strongly recommend you go with a silicone rubber gasket which is not only reusable but is also seals better and doesn't make a mess when you take the cover off (try www.realgaskets.com).

[mark]

Those bolts shouldn't be tight enough that you need an impact driver. I would avoid that. The right socket and a decent ratchet and you should be O.K. Check your torque specs when you put it back on make sure you start at the center and work your way out. They don't need to be super tight.

[jonr]

Thanks for the advice all. I've got my trusty dead blow mallet handy as well as a can of gasket remover. The torque wrench is ice cold and ready to wrench them back in too.

I've already bought the factory gasket from Suzuki, so if it goes south, I'll invest in the silicone one next time.

I originally posted this in part because I've heard of people breaking off the bolts for the cover and I wondered if there was anything sneaky (besides normal corrosion) about it.

-J

[SqDancerLynn1]

Main thing is don't use that 1/2" drive socket set Use a 1/4" set if you have it ONLY torque to 6-7 ft lbs & use some anti seize on the threads, make sure you didn't get any gasket scrapings in the thread holes. Use a very small dab of silicon on the bottom of the 1/2 moon caps.
MAKE SURE all of the old gasket is removed IF NOT you will break the cover when you reinstall it.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Another thought MAKE sure their is no oil in the bolt holes

[Road_Clam]

Re: removing the valve cover

Well, I'm searching the website o' great wisdom and wanted to know if anyone has any tips on removing the valve cover bolts on my gs1100g. Just twist off slow? Impact driver?

I entered endless search combinations using the GSR's search feature and came up with mostly leak issues. Anybody have any advice on this one? After I get it off, it's time to check the valve clearences too...

thanks-
J

The bolt threads somehow ingest moisture (I don't know how) and rust up. I just removed my valve cover to chage the leaking gasket. Severall bolts gave me a REAL hard time coming out. I ended up snapping one bolt right near the breather cap, now the whole engine has to come out to repair the broken bolt. Spray some PB Blaster around the bolts you think are seized, and let them sit for a few days, hopefull they will come loose. Good luck,
Rich

[jonr]

Lynn,

Thanks for the installation tips. Do you just mean silicone RTV (automotive) for the end caps or actual clear silicone (household)? I've found that pencil erasers work well for keeping small bolt holes covered up when necessary. I don't have a 1/4" torque wrench, but I think the auto parts store loans them out with a deposit.

Rich,

I do have some PB blaster and will use it. I had bought it when I was trying to take the exhaust bolts out of my 750 (broke 4) and I also found out that it miraculously eats up corrosion off of electrical connections. When I rented a trailer from UHaul one time, the guy sprayed it on my trailer light harness and the green flakey you-know-what ran right off. It must be really basic in pH or something.

-Jon

[SqDancerLynn1]

Just a very small drop of RTV, you don't need a torque wrench Just finger tight & 1/8 turn You get the feel for it after a while. Pencil erasers is NOT a good idea. Too easy to fall into the engine What works is a short blast of air, or even a blast of canned air (computer)