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Idle issues

  • Thread starter Thread starter haggis905
  • Start date Start date
I tried with the choke open and sure enough, I felt air passing through without restriction. When I closed the choke and did a normal exhale into the narrow opening, the slides hit the top immediately. I guess it is back to the drawing board....

Is there a way to change the butterfly settings on carb #3? I noticed that on the new set there is a wide opening, yet on the old set the butterfly is almost completely closed. I am going to replace #3 and then do my bench sync and see if there is any change in the situation.
 
haggis905 said:
I tried with the choke open and sure enough, I felt air passing through without restriction. When I closed the choke and did a normal exhale into the narrow opening, the slides hit the top immediately. I guess it is back to the drawing board....

Is there a way to change the butterfly settings on carb #3? I noticed that on the new set there is a wide opening, yet on the old set the butterfly is almost completely closed. I am going to replace #3 and then do my bench sync and see if there is any change in the situation.
The setting on #3 isn't something I've ever had to mess with. I'm not even sure what would cause it. I'd have to rip into my spare set to see.

If the butterfly is open that could explain the high idle, but I don't think the total bogging, but I really don't know since I've never experienced it. Out of sync carbs can give real flat spots coming off idle but eventually pick up steam. Out of sync usually makes it hard to get it to idle at a low speed.
 
If you're positive you've bench synched the carbs correctly, then you have an intake leak.
You mentioned before that a PO used silicone/sealant on the manifolds.
 
I just got done siliconing my intake boots a minute ago. As I took the carbs out of the boots one of them tore a little so i hope this fixes it otherwise its all new ones and a week to get them after ordering. Do they come with the sync screws or do ya keep the old ones?
 
tconroy said:
Do they come with the sync screws or do ya keep the old ones?

Best to hold on to them JIC! Besides, if they end up becoming spares, you never know what GSR member may need them!:-D

Brad tt
 
I just got back from the dealer and bought new intake boots and they dont come with the sync screws.I thought it would be best to go new rather than silicone and have to do it all over again in a month.I dont like the thought of sucking silicone into the cyclinder and causing more problems.This was decided after a just silconed the old ones and it looks like crap!Parts will be in next friday!!!!!!!A week without riding bums me out.......good thing its cold!!!
 
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Buying the new manifolds is the right thing to do.
Others may say they've had varying success, but using silicone is a mickey mouse fix to be honest.
Apply some hi-temp bearing grease to the new manifold o-rings and if you replace the PITA stock Phillips manifold screws with Allens, torque to about 6 ft/lb.
 
Also, as I said earlier, if your carb synch has been done correctly, then the new manifolds/o-rings, installed correctly, will fix your problem.
Looking back at the last sentence of your last post, you said a week of no riding bums you out... but another week of tinkering and trying to fix the problem without fixing it would be worse.
 
your right Keith, I also believe that silicone is "mickey mouse" and shouldnt be done.Replacement is not cheap but having the silicone sucked into the engine would be far more expense.And your right again,A week of not riding is well worth another week or more of tinkering.This should be my last "down time event" which means I will be riding when the "warm up" comes.Its really cold here in K.C. right now anyway,so I picked a good time to be down.Do you know the size of the allens to replace the old phillips screw with.I think its 6mm but I dont know what the thread pitch is.I will take one to home depot and see if i can match it.
 
I can't give a positive answer to the bolt size/thread pitch for your model.
Take one in and compare as you said. Don't know about your area, but they're easy to find where I'm at. I haven't gone to Home Depot to look for metric hardware but I'd imagine they have them. I know OSH has them, Do-it Center, and lots of hardware stores and most MC parts shops.
 
tconroy said:
your right Keith, I also believe that silicone is "mickey mouse" and shouldnt be done.Replacement is not cheap but having the silicone sucked into the engine would be far more expense.And your right again,A week of not riding is well worth another week or more of tinkering.This should be my last "down time event" which means I will be riding when the "warm up" comes.Its really cold here in K.C. right now anyway,so I picked a good time to be down.Do you know the size of the allens to replace the old phillips screw with.I think its 6mm but I dont know what the thread pitch is.I will take one to home depot and see if i can match it.
Didn't realize you are in KC. I am in Topeka. Maybe we can meet to ride on of these days!

Home Depot here doesn't have what you need. I use ACE Hardware or an independent hardware store that has more metric stuff that you can sneeze at. From screws you need a magnifier to see to the big stuff used on big Japanese dozers. Make sure you match the threads carefully because there seem to be two common different thread pitchs. Kind of like standard and fine.
 
Thanks for the info jimg.I live close to noland and 40 hwy.and there is an Ace store there so I'll try there first.I always look forward to meeting fellow gs riders.R gierer was over last week with his 750 and we had a great time talking about our bikes!!!!Cant wait to go to the GS rally at roaring river and meeting everyone!!!
 
just got back from Ace hardware and they had my intake screws.6mm by 1.0 allens.I put one in and they look great.Its amazing how much difference new screws make it look.Thanks again jimg and Keith.Can't wait to get my new boots on!!!!!Also ordered some nice looking highway pegs too!
 
If all goes well parts will be here friday,saturday latest.Put em on saturday night and test it out on sunday afternoon.I think this will fix my problem of a 500 rpm gain when warmed up.The #2 boot came completly separated from the intake flange when I took the carbs off.I hope the carbs will slide into the new boots easier than the old ones.Would it help to leave the sync screws out to allow air to escape when pushing the carbs on?
 
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I don't think removing the screws will help installation. You may want to use some silicone lubricant and heat up the manifolds a bit with a blow dryer to help them flex a bit. Stock air boxes can be tight, so take your time and don't get mad at it.
I've always thought you have an intake leak but your latest message confirms it. You said the bike gains about 500 rpm's after warming up. I don't believe you mentioned it in that way before. Gaining that much rpm from cold to hot is the classic intake leak symptom.
 
I have had good luck chasing intake leaks with starting fluid like kahuna mentioned. Just be careful not to get too much in there. The tiniest bit of starting fluid in the area of a leak will immediately cause an RPM increase. Is why I prefer it over water or WD-40. Just don't flood the area.
 
The old boots let the carbs go in easily.I think putting them on is easier than taking them off.I never get mad at anything I work on,Just even, through persistence and reasoning.Its human nature that lets us get upset with things we dont understand,but thinking "wisley" will get the job done.Patience helps also!
 
Well, the bike is up and running properly!! Why is it always the simplest things that you miss? It turns out that the lock nut on the accelerator cable by the throttle was loose. I readjusted the cable to make sure that the throttle was all the way closed, then tightened the lock nut.

It immediately started and settled into 800rpm's. Hit the throttle and instant power. All I need to do now is my regular adjustments and then I am ready to ride!

Thanks again Keith and everyone else for their help!
 
Man!!!!!I got a new bike!!!!The intake boots did the trick.It idles smoothly and has a totally different attitude!!Sounds better than ever and comes right back down to perfect idle as soon a let off the throttle Its not near as noisy either.Best 100 bucks Ive spent yet.The old boots were sagging which caused my air box not to line up right with the carbs,now everything fits like a glove and looks better.I got stainless steel allen screws for the boots which look good against my black engine also.Its been to cold to try it out more than once so far,but its running good in the garage just sittin on it!!!you get great gas mileage that way too.
 
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