HELLO! NOOB with 1980 GS550E ?'s i.e. HELP!

[ccratin]

because they may look like they are sparking fine outside the motor with no compression, but they may not spark at all under normal conditions inside the motor. Plus, you are removing a variable to narrow down your problem.

[yellow]

Update

OK...so this took forever to get to. Work has been weird. Just switched from classroom to ride-alongs. Working in the field is much better. Anyway were I have gotten and have not....

1) Determined the leak was from screws on petcock which I took apart. PO rebuilt it looks like.

2) Took apart carbs and determined while everything is new and replaces PO was a HACK. Regardless everthings was clean, but the floats were set at about 3/4 of an inch. Manual says 1". Which I hope I did the right way. Took out gasket flipped upside down and measured to the top most part of the float.

3) Reinstalled. Would not fire up. Gas is in bowls. After holding starter for a while. You will hear a little put-put here and there pretty steady but not starting. Any turning of the throttle kills the puts (I am pretty sure that is an industry term).
Oh yeah...not enough puts to warm up a pipe or anything and plugs still look dry after the putting.

4) Borrowed tool to check compression. Good news they are all within 5 psi of eachother. Bad news. They are at 78psi. But it did start before. SO I am hoping to at least get her started again and then worry about whatever it is you do with low compression.


Any suggestions out there or do I have to do the dreaded thing and take her to a shop

[Nerobro]

Thanks for the info on the shocks - I would like to rebuild if possible, is this extremely hard or a complete PITA.

The stock shocks are non rebuildable. I actually have a fairly fresh set if you "need" a pair. (fresh as in 16k miles..)

[Nerobro]

1) Determined the leak was from screws on petcock which I took apart. PO rebuilt it looks like.

My petcock has given me a hell of a time too. It's almost worth the $40 just to buy a new one. I'm on the third... or fourth petcock on my bike. ;-) At the moment there's one off a 1983 GS550ES on it. *shrugs* It's a mess.

2) Took apart carbs and determined while everything is new and replaces PO was a HACK. Regardless everthings was clean, but the floats were set at about 3/4 of an inch. Manual says 1". Which I hope I did the right way. Took out gasket flipped upside down and measured to the top most part of the float.

I'm concerned by you flipping the carbs upside down. The proper way to measure float height is with the carbs either upside down. (That is sitting on the diaphram covers) or on end. I'll dig up a tutorial for this. I think the best one is on dynojets site... Erm, make that factorypro http://www.factorypro.com/tech/float...procedure.html

3) Reinstalled. Would not fire up. Gas is in bowls. After holding starter for a while. You will hear a little put-put here and there pretty steady but not starting. Any turning of the throttle kills the puts (I am pretty sure that is an industry term).

I think you're not getting enough fuel into the engine. With the fuel level as low as I think you've got it I'm in shock ANY fuel is getting into the bowls.

4) Borrowed tool to check compression. Good news they are all within 5 psi of eachother. Bad news. They are at 78psi. But it did start before. SO I am hoping to at least get her started again and then worry about whatever it is you do with low compression.

I wouldn't worry much about the compression numbers. While this shows up most at startup and near idle, if they are all consistant, you're probally in good shape. Also keep in mind these engines are only 8.5:1 compression so you'll never get all that high of a number.

Worst case scenario, do you have a trailer? ;-) Or at least a car? Skreemer or I would be happy to rebuild and properly setup the carbs for you.

[mark]

Not trying to be a nag, but when you did the compression test you remembered to keep the throttle open right? Also when you hit the starter make sure you go thought 3 to 5 compression strokes before you take a reading (same number for each cylinder).

[yellow]

Update, again

Nerobro - Thanks for the great offer of rebuilding. I may just have to take you up on that. Everything in the carbs looks shiny and replaced. PO must have cleaned and replaced with rebuild kit. I did take them apart again and readjusted the floats with the link you sent. they were a 'little' low. But when I took them off the bike and drained the bowls there was quite a bit off gas in them.

Petcock
Appears to be working and must have been rebuilt with kit by PO. Engine is pulling vacuum.

Shocks
I actually looked at the manual when I was looking for direction to rebuild. Not intended for service. So If I ever get her running might look into a *new* set.

[yellow]

Update, again

Marc-Checked compression again. Numbers did not change wether or not the throttle was fully opened or closed. What does that mean?

[yellow]

Questions

OK, after rechecking floats put the carbs back in and tried to start her. No gas was getting to the bowls. This happened last time at first too. First time I tried to start, NO GAS. Waited aday - GAS. This time NO GAS when carbs put back in. What is going on?

Engine oil level was good (in middle of sight glass) before I started messing with it. Now I just checked and there is no oil in window. There are no puddles on the floor. Where did it go?


Thanks again for helping me keep my sanity. It is really nice to be able to go screw stuff up and then come back inside and tell you guys.

[AOD]

2) rear shocks super soft and need to be rebuilt. Not sure if this is easy or not. Shocks currently adjusted so they are their longest

3) it is really hard to get into neutral if bike is running. takes perhaps about 20 times of going between 1st and 2nd to get it into N. When she is not running it is not a problem to get into N

You want to se the preload to where the shock is at the smallest setting...where it's loading the spring as much as possible. It'll get a little tighter.

I'll tell you know, your best and most price friendly option for shocks is a set of Progressive 14's. Call Rob at CycleRecycle2 (www.usedmotorcycleparts.com) and ask him about them. Remind him he may have to use S&W springs.

He did this on my old 550 and it was soooo much better than stock.

Regarding the netural thing. Try putting it in 1st gear and rolling the bike a little by bumping the clutch. As it's rolling, slip the gear up into neutral. It'll shift easier if the bike is moving.

Change your plugs if you haven't yet...I saw your pictures of them. The bike looks really nice btw!

~Adam

[jimg]

OK, after rechecking floats put the carbs back in and tried to start her. No gas was getting to the bowls. This happened last time at first too. First time I tried to start, NO GAS. Waited aday - GAS. This time NO GAS when carbs put back in. What is going on?

Engine oil level was good (in middle of sight glass) before I started messing with it. Now I just checked and there is no oil in window. There are no puddles on the floor. Where did it go?


Thanks again for helping me keep my sanity. It is really nice to be able to go screw stuff up and then come back inside and tell you guys.

You know, this happened to me a couple of months ago when I was getting my 550 going. The level was good, I ran it for maybe 15 seconds, and the oil level never came back even after overnight. However, after starting it the next evening, the oil was back in the sight glass. I don't know if it got trapped in the cam area, clutch/tranny, or oil filter maybe. Try starting it for a few seconds, 4 or 5 and see if it returns.

[yellow]

More UPDATES

Oil level did come back to normal today. But still no gas in bowls nothing going in them after turning over. Any IDEAS?

[earlfor]

About 99% of the time, difficulty in finding neutral is a clutch adjustment problem. With the bike on the centerstand, rear wheel off the ground, start the bike, put it into 1st gear and pull in the clutch lever. If clutch adjustment is correct, the rear wheel will either stop or lightly continue turning. If it is still turning, you should be able to stop it easily by placing two bare fingers on the tread. Adjust the clutch cable until you can stop the tire with medium pressure of a couple of fingertips.

Earl

[yellow]

Earl - I wish I could get it to run to try what you suggest. Once I get to that point I'll do the the clutch test.

Andy

[yellow]

Nothing!

Ok, took apart petcock again, still good. There is gas in the bowls. But now start. I might have to wait for it to warm up a little. Unheated garage.

Nerobro, I might be giving you a shout as soon as it warms up a little and I get some free time.