rust in tank

[KrazyKarl02]

Por 15 product

I did a tank off of a Kawasaki and found a product that I believe works better than kreem. POR 15 makes a good little kit, it comes with a degreaser, a solvent to eat away the old tank sealing, a rust eater, and a tank sealant. The only thing I found it needed was maybe some acetone. After you eat the rust off you must rinse with water and then dry. I found this stage to cause a lot of flash rust. If you rinse with acetone, the acetone will evaporate and the surface will be ready to be sealed.

[Anonymous]

Yikes!!!!!!!

I had really good luck when I did mine. I don't know what could have coused it to explode. Someone claimed earlier to have had his tank done for $90.00. This sounds like a worth while investment to me. If I knew before I did mine that I could get it done that cheap I would have went for it.

[argonsagas]

I have used kreem twice with excellent success. A friend used Kreem last month and we still don't know what went wrong but it blew up in his face. Tank is ruined, hair is burn't off, face is real sunburned. I wish I knew what he did wrong because I will probably need to use it again someday and now I'm kinda nervous. Anybody have an opinion as to what could have gone wrong. Fire department claims a static spark from wool lining in jacket caused it????

I don't know the chemical makeup of Kreem, but in using a vriety of products for stripping paints, I have seen that a common byproduct is a form of hydrogen gas, and that is always very highly flammable....any spark will set it off.

The chemicals in Kreem, or any similar product, are invariably non-compatible with human skin.

As you will see in my earlier post.....Kreem should only be used outside. This is because you need maximum ventilation because of the noxiousness and toxicity of the fumes, but now, apparently, there is a third reason.

I have not used this product, I just took the warnings from a dealer who was selling it.....he told me to find a professional shop to do the work as I would be both safer and happier.

Why not look around for a professional to do your work, and avoid the hazards you now know far too well?

[Anonymous]

Dont Know About Kreem But

A BUDDY OF MINE USES A PACKAGE OF BB'S AND SHAKE LIKE HELL THEN RINSE AND DO IT AGAIN, NUTS BOLTS SOUND TO BIG TO ME TO GET INTO TIGHT AREAS BUT BB'S WILL GET EVERYWHERE, HE HAD GOOD RESULTS. WHEN DONE USE MULTIPLE FUEL FILTERS AND CHANGE EVER SO OFTEN FOR FIRST YEAR THIS IS BY FAR THE CHEAPEST METHOD I KNOW OF AND WORKS WELL...

[dgeorge]

I've never used this stuff, but found a web page that sounds pretty good for the rust removal. If anyone else has tried this please let me know what your results were. I'm thinking of getting some to do the tank on my bike before I paint it. http://dratv.com/rustol.html

[Anonymous]

Only shake on the first rinse.

I think some people are confused about the shaking of the tank. You are only going to put stuff in the tank and shake it during the first rinse. Once you start using the Acid, and Acetone, you won't be doing any shaking. I could go on for a while with little tips for using Kreem, but if you don't have the mechanical knowledge of how to safely plan to use chemicals like these dont bother.

[Anonymous]

Are you talking light surface rust, or "real" crusty rust? Because I've had some light surface rust in the upper portion of my tank for years, and never had a problem. As long as I keep the tank pretty full, the rust never has a chance to grow. It's never been a problem. And it's never gotten any worse.

[Anonymous]

A few of you have said to make sure it's warm when using something like Kreem. How warm are we talking?

[Mobetter]

Don't use Kreem !!
Don't use Kreem !!!!!!!!
Don't use Kreem!!!!!!!!!

POR 15 is a much better product.

If you are stubborn and use kreem anyway, do not,
never, under any circumstance put any gas treatments
in you gas because it will soften the stuff and
gunk up your petcock, fuel line and carbs.

POR15 is totally impervious to fuel additives..

I almost had to toss a gas tank because of Kreem.
I have other people tell me the same.

Peace
Mo

[Anonymous]

Is there a temperature limitation with POR 15? I'd like to do this soon but the high's are only in the low to mid-40s where I live and I don't want to do this indoors.

[Mobetter]

POR15 is a moisture reactive aluminum loaded
urethane, it is much more dependent on moisture
than temp for cure, but I can't recall if they suggest a minimum temp.

Peace
Mo

[Detman101]

Re: Por 15 product

I did a tank off of a Kawasaki and found a product that I believe works better than kreem. POR 15 makes a good little kit, it comes with a degreaser, a solvent to eat away the old tank sealing, a rust eater, and a tank sealant. The only thing I found it needed was maybe some acetone. After you eat the rust off you must rinse with water and then dry. I found this stage to cause a lot of flash rust. If you rinse with acetone, the acetone will evaporate and the surface will be ready to be sealed.

Isn't acetone highly flammable?

8O
Dm of mD

[Anonymous]

listen up dudes, dont spend a dime over $50.00. This tank coating is the biggest rip-off. Call a few radiator repair shops until you find one that will do it for the $50.00 or less. I had mine done for $40.00, that included cleaning the tank and all materials. I took one day.

[kkesler]

I did mine with the POR-15. It took a while but I have been pleased with the results. Also allowed me to finally get my carbs straightened out, as they are no longer filling up with rust particles. Turned out the little inline filter was NOT catching the teeny rust bits and they were filling the carb bowls.

Kurt Kesler

[torgo]

What I have read on the KZ400 forum and I am going to try next week when I get a chance to work on my GS650GL, is putting a couple hundred BB's in the tank and wraping it up in padding. When the wife is away put it in the dryer with enough padding to keep it from moving and letting it tumble for 30 min. NO HEAT.

We will see if this works.