Cracked Cam / Valve Cover, Yep I Did It Too! (PICS) Please Help..

[ddaum]

Just when I thought I was doing everything right... BAM..cracked valve cover.
Here is what happened:

1. Removed the valve cover and breather cover.
2. Cleaned all surfaces free of old gasket material.
3. Checked valve clearances and everything was good.
4. Installed new gaskets with hi-temp red RTV.
5. Installed new "half moon" plugs near the end of each cam shaft.
6. Installed all new replacement bolts (not allen head) with antisieze.
7. Verified the tach gear was engaged!
8. Began torquing as per manual from inside-to-outside in criss-cross pattern.
9. Second to last bolt torqued cracked the cover.
10. Removed the cover and salvaged the gasket before the RTV completely cured.
This topic was also addressed by another member HERE.

Here are my questions:
1.) Does anyone have a 550 valve cover that they are willing to sell me?
I am aware that I can get the cover welded/repaired, but I'd rather buy an undamaged one.

2.) I was torquing to the value circled in red in the picture below as per the manual, is this the wrong torque?

3.) Does anyone have the shop manual that can tell me the actual torque for these specific bolts?

Below are reference pictures of the procedures that I followed and pictures of the crack. Please help if you have, or know someone who has a 550 valve cover that I can buy soon. I really want and need to get this bike running again.

[Boondocks]

Just when I thought I was doing everything right... BAM..cracked valve cover.
Here is what happened:

1. Removed the valve cover and breather cover.
2. Cleaned all surfaces free of old gasket material.
3. Checked valve clearances and everything was good.
4. Installed new gaskets with hi-temp red RTV.
5. Installed new "half moon" plugs near the end of each cam shaft.
6. Installed all new replacement bolts (not allen head) with antisieze.
7. Verified the tach gear was engaged!
8. Began torquing as per manual from inside-to-outside in criss-cross pattern.
9. Second to last bolt torqued cracked the cover.
10. Removed the cover and salvaged the gasket before the RTV completely cured.
This topic was also addressed by another member HERE.

Here are my questions:
1.) Does anyone have a 550 valve cover that they are willing to sell me?
I am aware that I can get the cover welded/repaired, but I'd rather buy an undamaged one.

2.) I was torquing to the value circled in red in the picture below as per the manual, is this the wrong torque?

Yes, this is definitely the wrong torque. The engine mounting bolts are the ones that bolt the engine to the frame. You should have torqued to the specs for the cam or valve cover. It doesn't appear that these torque specs appear in "Table 4". The torque specs might be in the manual in the section dealing with the valve adjustment.

3.) Does anyone have the shop manual that can tell me the actual torque for these specific bolts?...

I don't have a 550 manual, but my '80 GS1100ET specs for the cam/valve cover is 6.5-7.0 ft.-lb. (0.9-1.0 mkg.). I doubt that it is significantly different if any for your bike, since these bolts are being turned into an aluminum cover which can't take too much torque.

I wouldn't use RTV on the valve cover gasket, but just put a light coating of grease on the gasket to hold it in place and allow the cover to be easily removed without destroying the gasket and having bits of gasket stuck all over the place. RTV is usually used without a gasket - it is the gasket. Personally, I wouldn't use the squeeze-tube RTV to make a gasket for a cam/valve cover, but there are preformed RTV gaskets for sale which some member have used and swear by. The torque requirements for the preformed silicone gaskets is very low, measured in inch-pounds, and they will leak if tightened to the normal torque specs.

[ddaum]

You should have torqued to the specs for the cam or valve cover. It doesn't appear that these torque specs appear in "Table 4". The torque specs might be in the manual in the section dealing with the valve adjustment.

Sure enough, you were right. The torque value was under "Table 4" in another chapter dealing with valve adjustment. The correct torque is 0.7-1.1mkg or 5.0-8.0 ft.-lbs. I put 18 ft.lbs. of torque on those bolts... it's a wonder that I didn't break, strip, or damage anything else.
This is very misleading because the procedures for valve clearance check is in chapter 3 "Lube, Maintenance, and Tune-Up" and refers you to "Table 4". Well it's quite obvious how the difference between "Table 4" (above) in Chapter 3, and "Table 4" in Chapter 4 "Engine", can cause you some trouble. Learn from my mistakes!

I wouldn't use RTV on the valve cover gasket, but just put a light coating of grease on the gasket to hold it in place and allow the cover to be easily removed without destroying the gasket and having bits of gasket stuck all over the place. RTV is usually used without a gasket - it is the gasket.

Are you sure? My manual states:
"21. Apply a thin film of Suzuki Bond No. 1215 or equivilant to both sides of a new cam cover gasket and install the gasket on the cam cover (Figure 84)."

Thanks for the reply and the info. I'm using a regular replacement gasket from bikebandit shown in the pic below.
For everyone still reading, I still need/want a new cam cover if you have one to sell. Maybe this time I can install it correctly.

[Boondocks]

You're welcome. Sorry for your misfortune.

...Are you sure? My manual states:
"21. Apply a thin film of Suzuki Bond No. 1215 or equivilant to both sides of a new cam cover gasket and install the gasket on the cam cover (Figure 84)."...

It's a judgment call. Most "bonding agents" will cause the gasket to stick and break when the cover is removed. If you don't mind scraping gaskets and hoping bits don't fall into the oil channels, by all means use whatever you want to "bond" the gasket.

[ddaum]

By using the RTV I was just hoping to eliminate the oil leak that I had coming from the old gasket prior to replacement. Do you think that I should do without it? I'm new to this stuff so I'm more than willing to take good advice when it comes my way.

[Boondocks]

If the cover was leaking with a clean surface and new gasket, then something like RTV might help to stop leaks. But unless the surfaces are warped or otherwise not mating properly, a properly prepared surface and properly torqued gasket should prevent leaking.

Like I said, it's a judgement call, and you use what works in a given situation. As long as the cover is off and the surfaces cleaned again, you can use a straight edge to check for flatness of the head and cover. Unless done carefully, scraping of gaskets and/or using abrasive materials to remove them can cause problem spots that don't seal properly.

[earlfor]

I dont use any kind of gasket sealer on valve cover gaskets and I dont use silicone anywhere on an engine either. All you need is some globs of jellied silicone lodging in the oil passages. Yeech! :-) A little grease to help stick it in place while you install the gasket is ok though.

Earl

[ddaum]

OK, no gasket sealant

Thanks for the advice guys! I think I'm going to clean her up real good again and try with no sealant.
Oh, I'm in luck too! I guess it pays to surf eBay at 3 in the morning because I got a new Cam cover for $20 including shipping and insurance!
Check it out HERE.

[Boondocks]

Listen to Earl. He knows what he's talking about. Especially since I agree with him. :-D

If you still have trouble with your gasket leaking, you could try the Preformed Silicone Gaskets at Real Gasket Corporation. Several members have reported good results with no leaks with these gaskets, and they are reusable. See REAL GASKETS for some background. The main caution is not to overtorque this type of gasket as mentioned before, and carefully follow the maker's torque specs. Since the gasket is already preformed and cured, there should be no reason for pieces to come loose in the engine as could happen with squeeze-out from RTV in a tube.

[earlfor]

LOL Maybe I should add, I have found two uses for silicone. When installing turn signal lenses, locktite cant be used as the lens will break before the locktite will release and turning the screws down too tightly will also break the lens. Coating the screws with silicone results in a supersoft threadlock and lightly turned down screws will not vibrate loose and be lost.

The 2nd use for the "all purpose goo" requires a tube of the stuff, a knife and a slice of bread. Applied to the bread, it makes a wonderful implement for picking up broken glass. :-)

Other than the above, I consider it useless.

Earl

[QUOTE=Boondocks]Listen to Earl. He knows what he's talking about. Especially since I agree with him. :-D

[RacingJake]

I use RTV when putting the case's back together with no problems. If a piece of RTV can get past the pickup screen and oil filter it's not going to do alot of harm cause something else is going on in the motor already.

[BriTXbike]

If you still have trouble with your gasket leaking, you could try the Preformed Silicone Gaskets at Real Gasket Corporation. Several members have reported good results with no leaks with these gaskets, and they are reusable.

This is the gasket I have and for situations like this it works great since I had the same thing happen. Also I switched to Allen head to reduce the possibility of over torque. After reading and my own experience I won't use lock tight again. Going to use Silicone instead b/c that aluminum really is soft. Feel your pain man on finding a part. Your lucky their are more 550 parts out there then 850.

[focus frenzy]

I would like to add that when torque specs list bolt sizes (the 10mm you mistakenly used) it is referring to the diameter of bolt, not the size of the bolt head.
a bolt with a 10mm head often has a 8mm shank (the threaded part) or even 6mm.

you are very lucky, I stripped three cam cover bolts just going a couple pounds past spec.

[ddaum]

you are very lucky, I stripped three cam cover bolts just going a couple pounds past spec.

I realize that I'm very lucky, and I'm still kicking myself in the butt about it. I was an aircraft mechanic in the Navy for five years so I should have been able to look at the bolts and question the high torque I was mistakenly using. The correct torque for these bolts is 5-8 ftlbs. I'm going to once again replace all the bolts because of the stress that I put on them and re-torque to the low end of the torque range. I would be in a lot worse of a mood if I hadn't found that new cover on eBay last night at 3am. I used the Buy It Now feature and got it for $10 plus another $10 for shipping. Not a bad deal!

P.S. IF ANYONE WANTS A CRACKED 550 CAM COVER, I CAN GET YOU ONE, REEEEEEEEAL CHEAP!

[ddaum]

!@#$, I did it AGAIN!

I have some seriously embarrassing news for all who are following this thread. I received the cam cover that I bought on eBay and cleaned it up really good and installed the tach drive and everything. I re-inspected the cylinder head surface and gasket and installed the cover on the engine. Then I began torquing the bolts to the specified 5ftlb. torque in a criss-cross pattern, from inside-to-out.
Can you believe that the !@#$#@! cover cracked AGAIN in THE EXACT SAME PLACE AND SIZE as the previous cover!?! What am I doing wrong here?
I took the original cover in to a local shop to get welded for $20 and the guy said I could pick it up today. Meanwhile, I found ANOTHER valve cover on eBay for only $.99 plus $10 for shipping! So I ordered that too!
When I pulled the original cover off I was surprised that the bolts were all just a little bit tighter than finger tight, so I decided that I'm going to throw out the torque specs and just snug the bolts this time and see if it leaks.
Just so everyone knows, I am using a step process when torquing the bolts. I put them finger tight, then go back and tighten them just snug with my ratchet, then I torque them. Anyway, all should be good this time around. I'm not taking any chances. Like I said, I'm just going to snug them down and see if it leaks.
Feel free to comment on my retardedness.