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replacing head gasket on a 82 750T

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    replacing head gasket on a 82 750T

    Ok, my head gasket needs replaced as it's weeping oil. I have the factory manual and find it to be a terrible manual as far as factory manuals go.

    Can the head be pulled with the engine in the frame ?

    Do you have to remove the cams ? If yes then all the valves need reajusted ?

    However, on a motorcycle it's impossible to remove the head without moving the crankshaft. Remember, you have to remove the block and replace the base gasket when you remove the head or it will leak.

    Is this previous statement true ?

    #2
    Greetings.

    I know on my 82 GS1100G, the head came off with the engine in the bike. The cams lift off and are set to the side and it was my experience that vavle adjustment was necessary. I suspect you have the 16 valve engine while I have the 8 vavle but the principles are the same.

    As for the base gasket. I did not replace it but I have heard it is advisable. In any case it does not call for pulling the crank as the cylinders come off over the pistons and out the same way the head does.

    The most significant challenge I had was with the timing. I had it 180 degrees off and had to do a "do over" to get it right.

    Read the books and ask for help as you go. Use your torque wrench and pray for patience.

    Good luck

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by rckrzy1
      Ok, my head gasket needs replaced as it's weeping oil. I have the factory manual and find it to be a terrible manual as far as factory manuals go.
      Can the head be pulled with the engine in the frame ?

      Do you have to remove the cams ? If yes then all the valves need reajusted ?


      However, on a motorcycle it's impossible to remove the head without moving the crankshaft. Remember, you have to remove the block and replace the base gasket when you remove the head or it will leak.

      Is this previous statement true ?
      The factory manuals are written for factory technicians so may be vague in some areas for the average guy. Although a lot of experienced mechanics find them lacking detail you may find a Clymers manual to be better suited.

      Yes, the head comes off with the engine in the frame.

      Yes. The cams have to come out so the drive gears can be lowered to take the timing chain off. Yes the valves will need to be adjusted, it's probably time anyway.

      Yes and no. I don't understand the statement, if it means moving the crankshaft or removing the crankshaft. You do not remove the crankshaft. However, it is best to replace the cylinder base gasket. I did on mine becasue I did not want to risk it leaking later on. But that involves quite a bit more work, like removing the cylinder and you may as well replace the rings at that point and hone the cylinders etc. But...these bikes are prone to head gasket leaks, not cylinder base gasket leaks so you could "roll the dice" so to speak. The hardest part of this whole job is scraping the old gasket material off without it going down into the engine. Pack everything with rags before scraping so bits don't get into the engine and scrape with tools in such a manor that you do not put any gouges or scratches in the surfaces. I use alot of razor blades and drag them so as not to gouge the surfaces.

      Hope this helps.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Wingnut
        The factory manuals are written for factory technicians so may be vague in some areas for the average guy. Although a lot of experienced mechanics find them lacking detail you may find a Clymers manual to be better suited.

        Yes, the head comes off with the engine in the frame.

        Yes. The cams have to come out so the drive gears can be lowered to take the timing chain off. Yes the valves will need to be adjusted, it's probably time anyway.

        Yes and no. I don't understand the statement, if it means moving the crankshaft or removing the crankshaft. You do not remove the crankshaft. However, it is best to replace the cylinder base gasket. I did on mine becasue I did not want to risk it leaking later on. But that involves quite a bit more work, like removing the cylinder and you may as well replace the rings at that point and hone the cylinders etc. But...these bikes are prone to head gasket leaks, not cylinder base gasket leaks so you could "roll the dice" so to speak. The hardest part of this whole job is scraping the old gasket material off without it going down into the engine. Pack everything with rags before scraping so bits don't get into the engine and scrape with tools in such a manor that you do not put any gouges or scratches in the surfaces. I use alot of razor blades and drag them so as not to gouge the surfaces.

        Hope this helps.
        So there is no master link on the cam chain ? I mean what if you wanted to repace the cam chain ? Surely you would get a new chain with master link or you would have to pull engine and split case.

        And no I just got the bike and adjusted the valves so it's not due and
        I'm not even going to look hard at pistons, I'm not ready to go down that
        road, all though it has 40K the comp is 150-160 in all . I just plan to fix the oil leak, maybe clean the heads up and put it back together.

        Comment


          #5
          You would have to be crazy to remove/replace the cylinder block just to replace a head gasket! That is a bucketload of unnecessary work. Wait until you experience the joy of getting the pistons/rings back into the block - you will kick yourself for ever taking the block off.

          Comment


            #6
            The bottom line is changing the timing chain is a major undertaking and is not a part of changing the head gasket.

            The first task is to get the engine on TDC (use the marks) then don't mess with the crank. the marks on the cams drive the rest of the timing process. Read the book take your time and ask for help. I did this and if I can anybody can.

            Comment

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