82 1100G secondary gear output shaft leak

[jonr]

Any of you guys out there with shafties ever replaced the seal on the output shaft of the engine? Three of the four bolts that connect the output shaft flange to the universal joint in the swingarm came out sometime before I bought this thing and in the process, one of them made a huge gash in the output shaft seal.

The factory service manual states that you have to remove the entire output shaft assembly, but that's with the idea that you're going to inspect the shims that put the pre-load its bearing/race. The reinstallation includes adjusting the lash between the bevels in the gears, and I don't feel to comfortable about tackling that.

Without removing the entire shaft assembly, do you think I can just remove the flange, pull out the seal and replace it with a new one?

Thanks-
J

[SqDancerLynn1]

I have never done it, The reasoning behind removing it Is that you will need to press the flange off to replace the seal
I would not be conserned about the shims, just reuse the old ones. The only time would be if you were changing the gears

[jonr]

Thanks Lynn. I do have good news though. I was able to do it without removing the whole unit.

I was really stewing over it and decided I wasn't going to sleep unless I gave it a try. I already had a floor jack underneath the rear of the engine and the front hanging by ratchet straps from the I-beam in my garage. I jacked up the rear even further and was able to "swing" it out enough that I could get a socket wrench on the shaft nut. Holding the flange with a 3" pipe wrench, I eased off the shaft nut with no problems and then the flange just slid right off.

The seal was even more trashed than I thought which made it easy pickings since there was much to grab on to with my assorted tools.

The new seal should be easy to reinstall with a 1.5" piece of pvc pipe as a poor man's press. The shaft nut tightens the preload on the bearing by pressing that flange down and while there are no torque specs for the nut, you're supposed to tighten it down until you get 3.5 to 6 lb-in of load on the flange when you turn it.

Of course since my operation was successful, I had to get screwed somehow and this time it was in the form of $$$$. The seal costs $10.50 from the dealer. Hosed again....

-J

[JayH]

For just the price of the seal and your time it looks like you made out on this repair. Sweet! I was a little worried when you said that 3 of the 4 bolts backed out.

Are there any other problems that you have uncovered and need to fix before taking it out for a spin around the block?

[jonr]

You should have seen the aluminum housing for the secondary gear! It looks like someone took a cold chisel and a hammer and just randomly hit the thing all over.

As for further fixes, it's a matter now of putting this thing back together and then figure out if the carbs are running right. The list of reinstallation is:

seal on output shaft
valve cover gasket
carb reinstall
remount engine
reinstall exhaust
reinstall headlight
install r/r

later-
J

[jonr]

Here's some fine pictures of the scenario. Beat up enough for ya?

Results of surgery-



Bandaged waiting for implant-



-Jon

[JayH]

It is beat up pretty good. Thanks for the pictures. Did you put some red loctite on the bolt threads? :-)

[jonr]

I have yet to reinstall the whole thing while I wait on the seal to arrive. But yes, I do intend to put on some locktite. The manual states the same thing. I'll have to degrease the threads on the other side though; they are covered in the bearing grease from the universal joint.

J

[focus frenzy]

DANG!!!!!!!
that is chewed up!!!
I have replaced mine, but I did not go through the trouble of unbolting the engine and turning it sideways, much simpler to remove the swing arm, as it only takes 15 minutes to pull it.

my seal was intact so I was able to take it to auto parts dealer (independent, not a clueless chain store) and they crossed over the part number and had the seal, for half what Suzuki wanted.

[SqDancerLynn1]

I would torque it to 75 ft lbs

[jonr]

DANG!!!!!!!
that is chewed up!!!
I have replaced mine, but I did not go through the trouble of unbolting the engine and turning it sideways, much simpler to remove the swing arm, as it only takes 15 minutes to pull it.

my seal was intact so I was able to take it to auto parts dealer (independent, not a clueless chain store) and they crossed over the part number and had the seal, for half what Suzuki wanted.

FF,

Fortunately, I had the engine unbolted and hoisted because I had to drill out a bolt in the cam cover. If it happens again, I'll go with the swingarm. Thanks for the advice.

Also, you can't see it too well in the picture, but the bolt at 1 o'clock got hit so hard that it bent. I figure if I ever have to remove it, it will break for sure - unless it deforms the aluminum housing first.

J