Dyna S 1150 no go or?

[Carter Turk]

Hey out there.

I was using the search function for Dyna S 1150. I came across Earls post from 2003 mentioning incapatibilitly. Here it is shortened:

Dynatek tech support & Murdoch Racing
I then called Dyna and spoke with them about their 2000 system. (the 1150E does not have and cannot be fitted with a mechanical advancer allowing it to use a "S" system) Raymond at Dyna (California) was VERY helpful and gave me the 800 number to Murdoch Racing in Clearwater Fl. to expedite delivery. The people at Dyna and Murdoch turned a real problem into nothing more than an annoyance. They were a pleasure to deal with.

Earl

The reason I posted this is I just installed one (Dyna S) on my 83 1100SD with 1150 motor and unfortunately read this afterward. I made 4 phone calls to Dynatek for troubleshooting purposes, to which they extended a very helpful hand.

No mention of incompatibility except for the mechanical advancer that I've had on there for the last 13 years from the original 1100 motor. They said (Larry/Angel technical support) if I had the advancer I'd be good to go.

I have yet to start it. I'm highly electrically challenged, eventhough I know its relatively simple.

I spent 3 hours last night and a few this morning trying to figure out how to attach this thing to my bikes wiring, by using the original wires that used to go to the ignitior.

I blew a ignition fuse, but didn't know it, so I battled for awhile wondering why I wasn't getting 12 volts to the coils. Now its turning over, but I don't know exactly where I should time the plate initially for start up purposes. The three slots are about 3 times larger than stock. I tryed to scribe a line across from the stock plate with the pickup magnets aligned, but don't know what timing this will net.

Any advice would be appriciated or did I just donate $150 bucks?

[HiSPL]

Try this....


On Dyna S,
Red wire is switched 12 volts.
white wire is one coil and black wire is the other coil.

Try running a wire directly from the battery hot to the red wire on the Dyna and another from the battery hot to the coils primary. This assures that you are getting plenty of juice to both. Then try to fire it and time it with a light.

Once it's timed properly you can go back and trouble shoot the electrical system and figure out what other gremlins you have....

[Carter Turk]

Thanks for the reply.

I went for a ride this morning 31 degrees winds out of the NE, slightly retarded on the Dyna S timing plate, I think.

Seemed to be happy, it felt a tad sluggish, so timing might not be optimized just yet.

The idle seems more perky, and at slight constant throttle openings, seems smoother than stock.

Gonna get a timing gun on there this afternoon to see where I'm at. It seems to like being a little retarded with big pistons in there.

[HiSPL]

It will definately start and idle better that way, but to get more power out of it you'll have to advance it.

[earlfor]

Carter, the incompatibility problem is that the 1150 does not have a mechanical advance. One can be retrofitted to it no problem though. I have used a mechanical advance unit from a 750 and an 1100 on the 1150. Problem two, is some mechanical advance units are mounted on a tall post.
The stock cover on the 1150 is a low cover and that means in some instances, the cover will not have clearance to be fitted back on to the bike.
An 1100 cover will solve that problem though as it is a deeper cover.
As for static timing, the | F1 on the side of the advance counterweight should be aligned just on the left edge of the hold down machine screw head located at 12 o'clock on the base plate. That will give you the correct idle advance timing.

It is a must that you completely remove the ignitor from the bike before installing the Dyna. You cannot wire the Dyna to run in conjunction with the original ignitor box.

The Dyna wires are black, white and red. Black conncects to the left (1,4) side on the crank trigger. White connects to the right (2,3) side on the crank trigger. The red wire is a switched 12v + and can be connected to the Orange/white wire that is 12v+ and powers your coils. (there is some possibility my memory is faulty and I have reversed the black and white wires in my mind. Just look at the crank triggers and note the colors on the left and right sides and match the left side to the 1,4 coil and the right side to the 2,3 coil.)
You MUST ditch the ignitor box. Uhhh, ditch the ignitor box. Like throw it AWAY. LOL

Earl

Hey out there.

I was using the search function for Dyna S 1150. I came across Earls post from 2003 mentioning incapatibilitly. Here it is shortened:

Dynatek tech support & Murdoch Racing
I then called Dyna and spoke with them about their 2000 system. (the 1150E does not have and cannot be fitted with a mechanical advancer allowing it to use a "S" system) Raymond at Dyna (California) was VERY helpful and gave me the 800 number to Murdoch Racing in Clearwater Fl. to expedite delivery. The people at Dyna and Murdoch turned a real problem into nothing more than an annoyance. They were a pleasure to deal with.

Earl

The reason I posted this is I just installed one (Dyna S) on my 83 1100SD with 1150 motor and unfortunately read this afterward. I made 4 phone calls to Dynatek for troubleshooting purposes, to which they extended a very helpful hand.

No mention of incompatibility except for the mechanical advancer that I've had on there for the last 13 years from the original 1100 motor. They said (Larry/Angel technical support) if I had the advancer I'd be good to go.

I have yet to start it. I'm highly electrically challenged, eventhough I know its relatively simple.

I spent 3 hours last night and a few this morning trying to figure out how to attach this thing to my bikes wiring, by using the original wires that used to go to the ignitior.

I blew a ignition fuse, but didn't know it, so I battled for awhile wondering why I wasn't getting 12 volts to the coils. Now its turning over, but I don't know exactly where I should time the plate initially for start up purposes. The three slots are about 3 times larger than stock. I tryed to scribe a line across from the stock plate with the pickup magnets aligned, but don't know what timing this will net.

Any advice would be appriciated or did I just donate $150 bucks?

[renobruce]

You MUST ditch the ignitor box. Uhhh, ditch the ignitor box. Like throw it AWAY. LOL

Earl

Don't throw it away... if it works, sell it on ebay. I've seen them go for good money.

[earlfor]

I assumed, perhaps falsly, that if we were converting to a Dyna ignition, the stock ignitor box was toasted. There is no performance gain in changing to the Dyna.

Earl

Don't throw it away... if it works, sell it on ebay. I've seen them go for good money.

[Carter Turk]

Earl thanks for your always informative insight.

I failed to mention I have the 1100 cover and both ends of the crank were damaged in a wreck before purchase of the engine thus destroying the stock ignition advance, stator and rotor. The crank was "super crank modded" at Falicon in 96.

I kind of panicked when I read your post from the search function. Your advice is always spot on so I thought I may have made a mod that was incompatible.

I did remove the ignitor, but was using the wiring upstream of ignitor to make sense of the installation. Had I directly wired to the 3 ohm dyna coils, I would have confused my shallow understanding of electrical systems.

As far as the ignitor goes, I replaced it because I suspected, without confirming, it was functioning on an intermittent basis.

Recently, I had fouled 1 & 4 cylinders. After I snipped the sparkplug wires and checked a few suspect connections (no melting) it ran again with no fouling. I wasn't convinced it wouldn't happen again so I bought the Dyna S.

Great customer service as you know. The guys walked me through my confusion that turned out to be a fuse I thought couldn't be blown when the key was in the off position. I must have touched the battery with a bare wire or something.

The rest of your story in 2003 was a good one by the way.

[earlfor]

[QUOTE=Carter Turk]
I did remove the ignitor, but was using the wiring upstream of ignitor to make sense of the installation. Had I directly wired to the 3 ohm dyna coils, I would have confused my shallow understanding of electrical systems.
*************** That would have been ok since the ignitor box was gone and you were using the power supply wire that powered it to supply the Dyna. My impression was you had both units still connected*****



As far as the ignitor goes, I replaced it because I suspected, without confirming, it was functioning on an intermittent basis.
************* I had the same problem for 6 months and didnt recognize at first what the symptoms meant. Mine would work fine for a few weeks and then I would lose two cylinders when out for a ride. I would limp along for a bit and then it would kick back in and be fine for another week or so. I thought I had a short somewhere but couldnt find it. It seems one of the first indications of a failing ignitor box is it drops two cylinders now and then.
I would be willing to bet your ignitor was on its last breath.****

Gimme a yell if you have any 1150 puzzles. I've pretty much had mine down to nuts and bolts. ehehehe

Earl

[Carter Turk]

How bout this one. Accelerating hard in 2nd gear down a hill usually, close throttle, brake and it feels like someone else blips the throttle momentarily.

This happened on my 1100ET, 1150, and my wifes 1150.

One theory was float height or gas sloshing forward abruptly in the bowls.

This is rather unsettling when you're already hot into a curve, and this surge/lunge thing happens right at the apex.