78 550 wiring

[Joe Wolf]

Hi Guys!
I have a GS550E which has got a totally shot wirring harness, using the diagrams from this site and others I've managed to get it to run but as the switch gear for the lighting circuit is not standrad (I think its from a Kwak ZXR250) I've got a few extra wires My question is this, looking at the diagrams it seems to me that the W/G wire from the alternator/ac generator and the W/R wire from the rectifier/regulator can be spliced together outside of the switch gear? Am I right or am I just being hopeful?

[argonsagas]

The wire may not be the same in harnesses from other manufacturers, but in the Suzuki harness one wire from the stator usually runs to the headlight.

It is not a problem to connect the wire directly from the stator to the R/R, but use your volt/ohmmeter to be sure you leave the circuit to the headlight intact.

[Billy Ricks]

Save the earth.

It\'s the only planet with chocolate.

Best reason yet.

[Joe Wolf]

Many Thanks! I should have explained better but I've wired the lighting circuit directly into the ignition due to the ZXR switchgear not having an on/off switch, only high dip and pass.

[Billy Ricks]

What would be even better it to hook up a relay to provide power directly from the battery to the dimmer switch. The relays usually have a wiring diagram with them.

[Joe Wolf]

Okay, I've rewired the whole thing, even added a common/seperate ground running from the battery negative to a conveinent spot in the head light mounting bracket and spurring of to as many of the ground terminals as I can, all seemed fine untill I checked my voltage at the battery whilst running at 5000ish RPM, 11.3v , so i figured the R/R units are not doing their job, Luckily digging through my Aladins box of spares I have found a single unit shindengen sh232 which is possibly from an old GS850 (model/year unknown) and reading through the forum I find this unit has been used on many occasions by others with similar problems to mine. I just wanted to check before wiring it in so I dont boil my battery dry or set fire to my wifes ass:shock: remember that my lights are always on as they are hard wired in to the ignition, Am I right to attatch the 3 yellows from the sh232 to the stator/generator the red and black to the respective terminals on the battery or starter relay and the green (not brown as many are talking about) through a relay to the lighting circuit or will this fry my wifes backside and cosequenty cause me much pain when she catches me? 8-[

[Joe Wolf]

Tried the green wire to the light system through the ignition (Which is how the lights are hard wired) key on engine off it blows 16amp fuse, tried the green wire to the tail light through the brake light switch, lights dim when engine is reved. battery has 11.98v at 5000ish revs:? Where else can i connect the green from this sh232 r/r. through the seperate output box? (regulator?)

[Joe Wolf]

Found this will let you know if it works

http://www.classicglory.com/docs/sh232-12.doc

(green = neg black = sense would make sense why i keep blowing fuses, dont ya think? )

[Joe Wolf]

yesterday it ran like a dream with the old r/r setup but didnt charge the battrey. today i put the sh232 on it ran like a washing machine full of bricks so i put the old setup back on to see what it runs like, it still feels like a washer in a brickyard and now cylinder 3 is running cold (exhaust not as hot as the rest) pulled the plugs and found more soot on them than a victorian chimney sweeps lad, sooted up plugs? To rich on the fuel or poor ignition are the usual causes (i Think) i'll have another go at the weekend if i can source a r/r from e-bay or the bone yard, might need some new coils now too:? be careful guys, what seems simple is often not and can cause other probs which might get expensive.

[earlfor]

Its apparent you have a charging problem. Question is do you now have an additional electrical or ignition problem. Remove the battery and put it on a charger until it reads 13 volts. Reinstall the battery in the bike. Disconnect the R/R from the stator. Start the bike and take it for a ride running on battery only. If it runs fine, then its the charging system and a possible short. If it still runs the same, in addition to the charging system faults, you also have an ignition problem. Do you still have stock points ignition? Checked/replaced points lately? What is your voltage at the battery and at the coils with the bike not running, ignition on, and with the bike using battery only, no RR connected?

Earl

yesterday it ran like a dream with the old r/r setup but didnt charge the battrey. today i put the sh232 on it ran like a washing machine full of bricks so i put the old setup back on to see what it runs like, it still feels like a washer in a brickyard and now cylinder 3 is running cold (exhaust not as hot as the rest) pulled the plugs and found more soot on them than a victorian chimney sweeps lad, sooted up plugs? To rich on the fuel or poor ignition are the usual causes (i Think) i'll have another go at the weekend if i can source a r/r from e-bay or the bone yard, might need some new coils now too:? be careful guys, what seems simple is often not and can cause other probs which might get expensive.

[Joe Wolf]

Thanks Earlfor, Ill try your tips, Points are brand spanking about 1 mile and 2 hours running time only. Battery reads 11.6 with ignition on with lights only and is newer than the points. I'll let you know what happens [-o<

[earlfor]

If your battery has been charged to 13 (thirteen) volts as it should be and drops to 11.6 if you turn on the lights, the battery is not good for anything but a paperweight. :-) 12 volts is a dead battery. You need a mimimum of about 12.2 in the system with everything on.

Earl

Thanks Earlfor, Ill try your tips, Points are brand spanking about 1 mile and 2 hours running time only. Battery reads 11.6 with ignition on with lights only and is newer than the points. I'll let you know what happens [-o<