Exhaust Bolts

[83'GK]

I am having to remove my GK's exhaust to get a crack fixed. I have managed to remove all the bolts without breaking any off, and was wondering what replacement types that everyone uses. OEM? Stainless? Allen or 6 point? Thanks

[ddaum]

I used stainless with some lockwashers and a little antiseize when I replced mine, but I would recommend installing studs. That's what I'm going to do next time I pull my exhaust.

[Jethro]

Studs are best, for sure. However, I have heard bad things about using stainless exhaust bolts in the aluminum head. Can't remember what though??

[ddaum]

Studs are best, for sure. However, I have heard bad things about using stainless exhaust bolts in the aluminum head. Can't remember what though??

I remember hearing some bad stuff about it too. Something about the heat making the two metals fuse together or something like that. That is why I goobered mine up with antisieze, and like I said, I'll be replacing with studs next time I remove the exhaust so the stainless bolts are only temporary. I'm assuming that most replacement studs are going to be stainless or mild steel though, right?? Can anyone recommend a type and source for studs?

[83'GK]

Can Anyone?

[hp1000s]

I recall someone in a "Broken Exhaust Bolt", thread, saying that certain Honda car engines had an exhaust stud that were suitable for the job...

[mark]

I'm in the process of putting my exhaust back on as well. The stainless and allen head bolts I found haven't been the same length as the stock bolts. If I can't do any better the old ones are going back in.

I'd be interested in any info. on the right "stud" as well. Wouldn't even know where to be begin looking for those that would be good right out of the box.

I'm sure some iron and welding shops would have 8mm "stock" that they could cut to the right length.

That would work wouldn't it?

[rckrzy1]

we have a company down the street, arrow bolt supply that carries things like that. If you give me the thread and lenght I can see if they stock them or can order them. I might do this too with my head gasket change.

Send me the info.

[RotaryRodder]

I took mine off yesterday and it was very easy for some reason. easier than getting the bolts out that hold on the intake rubbers. I have SS socket head allen screws for the exhaust... and well, for the intake now.

[mixongw]

When installing new bolts either stainless or carbon steel, use the aluminum filled anti-seize ointment, not the copper stuff.

[83'GK]

I just ended up ordering new suzuki OEM ones from a place called Ron Ayers Motorsports. I figure they lasted 20+ years to begin with, so maybe they arent so bad.

[bwringer]

I use stainless steel allen head bolts and stainless lock washers, along with plenty of silver anti-sieze. Anti-seize is mandatory for ANY stainless fastener going into aluminum.

About twice a year, if I haven't needed to remove them for some other reason, I crack them loose and retighten. Never had a problem, and they don't look all rusty and junky like regular bolts or studs.

Studs can make removing the exhaust and/or cylinder head a little more of a chore, depending on the geometry of your particular bike.

[DaveDanger]

My recommendation is just the opposite of mixongw's... I prefer the copper based anti-seize for any and all uses. ANY time that two dissimilar metals are together in a static manner in the presence of heat and/or moisture, electrolytic corrosion will take place. There is almost no way to stop it. Stainless steel studs or bolts into any dissimilar metal (interpret "Aluminum" for our purposes) is the best situation you can manage. I've tried every type of anti-seize for 30+ years in every possible combination of metals in contact with aluminum and nothing works as well as the copper based formulas for me. That's simply my opinion. I actually go to the opposite extreme as far as a stud into the aluminum head material... I want it to stay put. I always dip the end of the stud into one of several grades of Loktite® threadlocker before installing it. I put the anti-seize where the nut is going to be repeatedly installed and removed. I want that nut to spin off and on with a decent torque without galling the threads the first (or second or third) time you place a socket on it. If a bolt is going to be used there, yeah.. I'll anti-seize the threads where it goes into the head.
On the other hand, I have had good luck using the aluminum based anti-seize/anti-corrosion where aluminum and copper electrical wiring are brought together.

Just my two-cents worth