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hi noob here with some questions 79 gs1000l I tried the search.

  • Thread starter Thread starter gotjeepzj
  • Start date Start date
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gotjeepzj

Guest
What is the spark plug gap? Also what oil to use and where to get it? With the engine not running there is 0 oil in the sight glass. By the filler it reads 10W-40. I did find in the search NOT to use automotive oil as it's too slippery. Is a motorcycle stealership the only place to buy oil? Also to these bikes have oil filters also only available at stealership? If so where are they? Also where is the drain? I was trying wait on my manual before I start my usual routine with new/used vehicles which involves a complete tune up and fluid change. Thanks.
 
The Gap Is .032 IN. I Use Castrol 10w 40 Available At Any Parts Store. You Can Really Start Some Replys Concerning Oil And Additives, I Stick With The Above Stated. Put The Bike On The Center Stand Look In The Sight Glass Should Read Between Upper And Lower Level, I Keep Mine Closer To The Full Mark For Obvious Reasons. I Buy My Filters At An Auto Parts Store Just Request By Make Model And Size Of Bike. The Drain Plug Is Located At Bottom Of The Bike, Stick Your Head Under There And You Cant Miss The Drain Plug. I Drain My Oil And Then Remove The Filter Located Between Your Exhaust Tubes Where They Go Under The Frame. There Is A Cover There That Has Three Bolts Loosen These And A Spring Will Push The Plate Off. Have Your Drain Pan There Since There Will Be Oil From That Area, Pay Attention How It Comes Out And Put The New One In Just Like It. Some People Don't Replace The Gasket I Do, It Comes With The Filter And It Is Nice And New.
I Think I Covered Most Of Your Post If I Forgot Something Let Me Know. Just So You Know I Own A 79 Gs 1000. Work On It In Winter Ride When The Weather Gives You A Chance.

There Was A Thread That Contained The Factory Manual For The 1000 That You Could Download For Free But Haven't Seen It For A While.

Good Luck
 
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The reason given for not using auto oil is that since these bikes run a "wet" clutch, supposedly there is an increased chance of clutch slippage.

Whether or not that's true is open to debate. I've always used it and never had a problem But automotive oil won't ruin your engine or anything like that.

Make sure you can see oil in the glass before you start it, even if you have to change it right away just to make sure that there is SOME oil in there! 10-40 is the factory recommendation, but some use other viscosities.
 
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Hey thanks, my clymer arrived about 2 hrs ago. however it states spark plug gap is .024-.028. I located the thread about the free manual, but the link at the site has been removed. So you use regular castrol 10-40 for auto's and it's fine? the autoparts store you refer to, is it a national store? I have other issues to work on too. It's hard to start when cold and backfires while trying to start. Also I can't turn the petcock valve by hand. Would a crescent wrench hurt? And finally as soon as I can get my bike up on the center stand I'll change the oil. Thanks
 
The petcock should move by hand. If you use a cresence wrench, be very careful. Don't just reef on it, you'll wreck it.
 
thanks for the tip. I was planning on using the wrench just to persuade it to move. Did I read somewhere they make a rebuild kit for it?
 
I need to change my oil this weekend, and buy at Autozone, I don't know where you are from but here in the great State of Indiana it is a very common retailer, I also buy my filters there. I have a Hanes manual and the free download factory manual. The manual was just ran across a copier and uploaded, the words are pretty clear but some of the pictures are dark and hard to see but using both I can usually figure out what I need to do.

Mine is a cold start and sometimes backfires through the left side of the bike #'s 1@2, until it warms up. I just replaced my points and condensers last week, and timed it. It starts faster now and with much less backfiring. I also like to run a heater on my engine for a couple of hours if I plan to ride in cold weather just to warm the oil. Makes it easier to start, and reaches the point where I can use the throttle much faster. My plugs tend to run a little rich on the left side, and cleaning them helps to reduce backfiring. I probably need to do a complete clean and replacement of my carbs to cure this problem, but everything in due course, runs good, runs hard right now so will add this to my list for next winter.

As far as the plug gap I run .032 IN I gleaned this information from one of the two manuals, I was also told by an old auto mechanic to use wire gauges for this measurement for a more accurate measurement, I regapped my plugs after cleaning, and used the wire gauge, can't really say if I saw a major difference but there is wisdom in those old guys, and that wisdom comes from experience. My set of gauges has both so why not?

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks, we have autozone here in the great state of Texas also. I just wasn't sure if they sold motorcycle parts there. You get your air filter there also I'm not sure what side is backfiring as I have a 4 into 1 exhaust. I thought it was a stock exhaust until my manual came in. Anyway to find out what brand it is and if it's any good. There is blueing on pipes 1-3 whatever that means. I'm glad to hear the backfiring is kinda normal.
 
Auto Oil

Auto Oil

mark said:
The reason given for not using auto oil is that since these bikes run a "wet" clutch, supposedly there is an increased chance of clutch slippage.

Whether or not that's true is open to debate. I've always used it and never had a problem But automotive oil won't ruin your engine or anything like that.

Make sure you can see oil in the glass before you start it, even if you have to change it right away just to make sure that there is SOME oil in there! 10-40 is the factory recommendation, but some use other viscosities.
Click to expand...


I received the following information from Castrol:

"Castrol does not recommend using automotive oils in motorcycles. The
Reason? In 1996 the American Petroleum Institute (API) upgraded the
performance standards of automotive oil from SG to SJ (currently SM).
This upgrade impacted the friction modifiers and zinc and phosphorus
levels, to address the fuel economy, catalytic converter and pollution
issues of passenger car owners. For motorcycles, the additional
friction modifiers can affect wet clutch performance, and motorcycle
engines appreciate a higher level of the anti-wear ingredients of zinc
and phosphorus.

We have formulated our line of Castrol Motorcycle oils to be API SG.
This allows us to optimize the formula specifically for motorcycles
without being constrained by the specification demands for passenger car
engines, which our passenger car oil must meet. All Castrol Motorcycle
oils have low volatility to reduce the effects of oil evaporation, and
they can be up to 50% lower than many API SM/SL/SJ passenger car
engine oils. API SJ engine oils have a minimal shear stability
requirement; therefore, some types may lose their viscosity more quickly
when used in a motorcycle, due to the stresses of these bike engines.

The Castrol motorcycle line includes oil for 2 stroke, 4 stroke and
V-Twin oils with a wide variety of viscosity ranges and oil types,
including mineral, synthetic blend and fully synthetic formulations.
This variety offers superior performance for all motorcycle rider
demands and every type of riding condition.

For an air cooled motorcycle, we recommend a V-Twin formulation-
Castrol V-Twin, and Castrol ActEvo V-twin

For the liquid-cooled, either V-twin or 4 stroke would be appropriate,
and your choice should be based on the viscosity requirements of the
motorcycle - Castrol ActEvo, Castrol GPS, and Castrol R4 Superbike"
 
Do napa, autozone, o'reilys sell motorcycle oil. Walmart does, but it's only for 2 strokes:(
 
gotjeepzj said:
What is the spark plug gap? Also what oil to use and where to get it? With the engine not running there is 0 oil in the sight glass. By the filler it reads 10W-40. I did find in the search NOT to use automotive oil as it's too slippery. Is a motorcycle stealership the only place to buy oil? Also to these bikes have oil filters also only available at stealership? If so where are they? Also where is the drain? I was trying wait on my manual before I start my usual routine with new/used vehicles which involves a complete tune up and fluid change. Thanks.
Click to expand...
i use 10w40 suzuki oil bought at the dealers and it about 250 a quart and i have had no problems at all.i change it about every 1000 miles though and a new filter about every other change.new oil and filter is about the best thing you can do for your bike!i may be over doin it but thats better than letting it go too far.About 15 bucks every other month aint bad.
 
In the realm of synthetic motorcycle oils, Amsoil has tested all of the major motorcycle oil brands and has a 1 MB PDF file comparison that can be downloaded at Motorcycle Oils White Paper. There is a notarized affidavit that the tests were conducted with ASTM methodology and certified for accuracy. Although a person might be skeptical since this test was conducted by Amsoil, their oil usually tests as among the best available in other independent tests I have read.

The Amsoil tests for motorcycle oil are the most comprehensive and best explained that I have seen.
 
I have used primarily three brands of motor oil in my bikes. For about 20 years, I used only Castrol GTX 20w50. Never had a problem with it and still use it in my "spare" bikes. I used Golden Spectro for a short time and no problems with it either. I didnt think it was any better than GTX 20w50 and it was twice the price, so I rarely use it anymore. For the past 5 years, I use Mobil 1 15w50 synthetic. Engines run noticably cooler and smoother (at least to my ear)
My oil temp on the 1150 dropped 10-15 degrees just by changing to Mobil 1.
I'm sticking with it. Castrol and Mobil 1 can be bought at Walmart...(and other places)

Earl
 
that's not too heavy of a motor oil? the 15 weight maybe not because it's synthetic properties, but the 20 weight? Doesn't cause a noticable drag and worse performance?

I also stand corrected on my previous statement on spark plug gap. My clymer manual lists 2 different ranges. On one page it says .024-.028. On another it says .024-.031 is ok
 
20 weight oil is pretty doggone thin. :-) In MANY years of using 20w50 castrol, I have not had a single problem with it. I only changed to Mobil 1 because I believe it is a better oil. There was not difference in performance between the castrol and the Mobil 1. I made the change because of decreased internal wear operating temp reduction.

I believe Mobil 1 is one of the best oils available. I only use the 15w50 as it is (as far as I know) the only Mobil synthetic oil without the extended milage friction modifiers.

I always used an .028 gap on my bikes with stock coils. I use .035 if I have Dyna coils.

Earl

gotjeepzj said:
that's not too heavy of a motor oil? the 15 weight maybe not because it's synthetic properties, but the 20 weight? Doesn't cause a noticable drag and worse performance?

I also stand corrected on my previous statement on spark plug gap. My clymer manual lists 2 different ranges. On one page it says .024-.028. On another it says .024-.031 is ok
Click to expand...
 
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Where might I aquire them at? Also where to get good plug wires to go with the coils? I'm assuming the dyna coils are similiar to a high voltage coil in an auto. I run and MSD in my jeep with Magnecor low resistence wires. The higher voltage output aloows for a .05 greater spark gap. Is this similiar
 
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