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    #16
    wow, not quite exploded but thanks! ;-)

    so I actually have a "new" box on the way for $15 all told on ebay, I figure for that it's worth it just for diagnostics sake...

    but what worries me is the part about the coils... if they test out with the right resistances on both primary and secondary, is there more that I need to test to avoid shorting? should that cover me? or can they just short intermitently?

    I appreciate the part about testing the box too! I will try that if I get time before the new one shows up!

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      #17
      Check out the wires going to the coils. They pass hot things and sharp things. A nicked wire will take out the ignitor quick. Replace the 20 year old terminals on the coil with new ones. Don't be tempted to solder them on, just get new terminals and a good crimper and make sure they are tight.

      The coils are grounded through the mounting screws. Make sure they are clean and the mounting screws are tight. Ungrounded coils can cause problems not only with running but wreak havic on the ignitor box.

      And last make sure the ignitor box is grounded both through the wire and the case. Grounds are more important than supply for electronics since all circuits need a reference and ground is it.
      1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
      1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

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        #18
        Well it was the ECU, my little black box came from ebay and I finally hooked it up last night, she started right up and seems to run well! didn't have time to fully warm it up and test it out, but so far so good!!

        Here's another vote for Earl for GS God!!! :-D

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          #19
          woo hoo!!!

          so after all that I let the dang thing sit for nearly a year!!! I did steal all the jets out for my 650 pipe change, and that at least drained the bowls, but it was already gumming up.

          it never ran quite right anyway, so this last weekend I just sat down and did a halfass job on the carb cleaning. I didn't pull them fully apart and soak them, but I cleaned all the feeder tubes and jets, pulled the springs on top of the needle sliders, and the sliders themselves. checked all the diaphrams, checked the bowls and tubes in there, and put it all back together. didn't have time to do anything else, so I just left it.

          picked up a battery and got it all charged without blowing myself up, and the float bowl stopper bolt that was missing during the week, and put that last piece that I found on the towel I was working on after I had already jimmied the carbs back into the boots... tried it yesterday and as soon as fuel started to fill the outer bowls, the linkagE started to spew. had to take the last carb off again and remove the last carb. MANY THANKS TO ROBERT BARR I had the orings to replace these onhand!!

          got it all together and some shocks on and rode it around the neighborhood this evening!!!! ran like a champ, even idled for me!! there are some clutch plates that I think stick, as trying to take off under heavy accel gives a little surge of extra power sometimes. boy this thing's strong!! i feel like I've said that before. \\/

          but it ran!!! now it's worth the time and effort to really work on cleaning up!!

          one thing I did to help keep the petcock clear was add a piece of the rubber tubing about an inch long from another gas line inside where the filter would have been (long gone). the tank's been kreamed, but it was all varnish that melted out with the addition of new gas.

          I'll get it together and post some pics sometime soon!! this one is pretty crappy, but the best I got this evening.


          Shot at 2007-07-11

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