buzzzzzzzzzz

[ard]

Hello everyone, this year I started riding my gs1150e, with 20.000 miles.it has everything original, nothing is upgraded or modified, I realized when I am riding the bike going throught the gears when it gets to the fifth gear and I open the trottle, I get a buzzzz after lets say 60 0r 70 mph. before this, I rode my gs 1100e with four in one it semed like the 1100 was a faster bike and the trottle was endless the more you rolled the faster it went, any suggestions?


ard

 

[Guest]

A buzz? As in a vibration? Does it bog down?

 

[ard]

buzzz

buzzz

Hi there, no, it does not bog down, but some how it feels like I am using all the power there is, and it is not going fast. I wonder if it has anything to do with the clutch. let me try to discribe this way; as I start the bike,- go in first gear very powerful, to a level, the buzz starts, go to second, smooth again goes to another level, the buzz starts, go to third gear smooth again to a level, buzzes again and so forth finaly fifth gear and meanwhile I am at 60-70 mph and I f I roll the trottle to the max (Which I could never do with my 1100E) feels like there is power but instead of the bike moving faster it generates the buzzzz. do I make any sense? let me know.


ard

 

[ard]

buzzz

buzzz

One other thing about this bike, in order to be able to ride this bike, I had to get the clutch plates from an old engine and install inthe 1150, because the it would not shift, I measured the thickness of the plated, they were thin, anf the plates that came out of the old engine (gs 1000G) was good so I used it. I am wondering now if that has anything to do with it.

ard

 

[Guest]

Hmmm, yeah maybe the clutch is slipping. If the revs go up without forward gain, it might be slipping. If I go wide open on my 1150, I had better be tucked and hanging on... massive power all the way to red line.

 

[Guest]

One other thing about this bike, in order to be able to ride this bike, I had to get the clutch plates from an old engine and install inthe 1150, because the it would not shift, I measured the thickness of the plated, they were thin, anf the plates that came out of the old engine (gs 1000G) was good so I used it. I am wondering now if that has anything to do with it.

ard

The plates are the same for the 1000G and 1150. The service limit is 2.6mm (0.10 in.) thick on the drive plates

 

[ard]

plates

plates

can I use Versah brand plates on this bike? or is the bike sensitive to aftermarket plates? and if I can use aftermarket what is a good brand?

ard

 

[Guest]

can I use Versah brand plates on this bike? or is the bike sensitive to aftermarket plates? and if I can use aftermarket what is a good brand?

ard

I've seen barnett kits on e-bay for GS's, but don't know if they are any good. You might want to also check your springs; they may be weak. Service limit of the free length (uncompressed) is 38.5mm. I'd pull the cover and have a looksy.

 

[ard]

I did check the springs, they are within tolerance.
If I need to buy OEM discs where is a place that the prices are reasonable?

ard

 

[earlfor]

My experience is the high rpm buzz comes from slightly out of synch carbs.

Earl

 

[KGB]

Shaunt
I've got a full Barnett clutch kit in my 1000S.
You've seen it run........

Versah and Barnett are both good products. The Barnett has close to 20,000 miles on it. No problems, normal adjustments.
Versah will cost about $120, Barnett around $100.
Again either one is a good product.

When you try to accelerate, do the revs go up and no acceleration?
You said no bogging, just a buzzzz.
In each gear it starts to buzz, what rpm does this happen?
Same rpm in each gear?

I'm wondering if it's fuel starvation?
How's the plugs look?

 

[ard]

buzz

buzz

Hello earl, Nice doggy, if the carbs are out of sync would the bike run smooth?
also this season when I took the bike out for the first time without adjusting the clutch properly, (I don't know if there is a such thing) it slipped every time I rolled the throttle hard at medium speed around 40-50 mph, by adjusting the clutch it resolved that part, that is why I am doubting the clutch, if I need to buy new clutch discs; what would be your suggestion OEM or Aftermarket?


Ard

 

[ard]

buzz

buzz

Hello Earl, Nice doggy, if the carbs are out of sync would the bike run smooth?
also this season when I took the bike out for the first time without adjusting the clutch properly, (I don't know if there is a such thing) it slipped every time I rolled the throttle hard at medium speed around 40-50 mph, by adjusting the clutch it resolved that part, that is why I am doubting the clutch, if I need to buy new clutch discs; what would be your suggestion OEM or Aftermarket?


Ard

 

[ard]

buzz

buzz

Hi Keith, thank you for the input, I have not checked the plugs yet, it is a good suggestion, as for the buzzing I am going to ride the bike today and pay more attention to the rpm. I think it does it at the same rpm, I am not sure, I will try it today, and let you know.

ard

 

[KGB]

Hi Keith, thank you for the input, I have not checked the plugs yet, it is a good suggestion, as for the buzzing I am going to ride the bike today and pay more attention to the rpm. I think it does it at the same rpm, I am not sure, I will try it today, and let you know.

ard

If it happens at the same power say 5000 rpm, when the motor starts to really breathe and horsepower starts to come on, and tourque is going away, it's the clutch slipping.
And if uit stops accelerating that clutch is now good for a beer coaster.
If it;'s slipping tha tbad, it may be sheering the fober off it.
If so hopefully the oil filter is catching it.
If the steel plates are different colors, like heat cycled metal, change them also.

 

[Jethro]

Make sure to check chain alignment and wheel balance as well, but my money is on the carbies.

 

[earlfor]

I use Vesrah clutch plates in my 1150. They work perfectly. As I have said about 1150's, they do not tolerate a pretty close setup very well. The only thing they like is "spot on". If the clutch adjustment and tolerances are out of spec even a little bit, it will shift so hard you'll think something is broken. LOL
Also, if there has been a gas leak into the crankcase and the clutch linings have absorbed gas, my 1150 will spin the clutch easily. Only solution is fresh clutch plates that havent been contaminated with gas.

Earl

can I use Versah brand plates on this bike? or is the bike sensitive to aftermarket plates? and if I can use aftermarket what is a good brand?

ard

 

[earlfor]

If the carbs are out of synch, I can guarantee you the bike will not run smooth and vibration levels can be intolerable. I once rebuilt the carbs, did a manual synch and took the 1150 for a test ride before doing a finish/vacuum synch. The vibration had to be felt to be believed. My hands were completely numb halfway to my elbows in 5 minutes. This is on a bike that normally runs smooth as a turbine and is for all intents, vibration free at any rpm.

If vibration levels are high, I think you need to do a carb synch. I have found the carb synch needs to be within 1/2 cm across the board. Meaning, if the synch level is to be 25 cm, then all carbs must read between 24.75 cm and 25.25 cm. Put a fan on the engine when doing the synch. I do not run the engine for more than 5 minutes at a time.

I love the Vesrah clutch plates. I dont use anything else. I think you need new plates.

Earl

Hello earl, Nice doggy, if the carbs are out of sync would the bike run smooth?
also this season when I took the bike out for the first time without adjusting the clutch properly, (I don't know if there is a such thing) it slipped every time I rolled the throttle hard at medium speed around 40-50 mph, by adjusting the clutch it resolved that part, that is why I am doubting the clutch, if I need to buy new clutch discs; what would be your suggestion OEM or Aftermarket?


Ard

 

[Clone]

My question would be does the RPM continue to climb when this"buzz" starts, :-s
If this happens, then suspect the clutch, if the RPM continue to rise slower and the power disappears, then I would suggest the carbs are starving for fuel, :?
Also check the airfilter, a seriously dirty air filter will starve your bike for air at higher rpm and rob you of power.

 

[ard]

Buzz

Buzz

I am back, thank you all getting involved with the buzzzz, the machine idles very fine at little over 1000 rpm, which I think is a good neighborhood, it has nice power to take off, it feels like if you are driving a standard transmission vehicle, you know how it feels when you max the gear, the transmission will ask you to up-shift, so if you do not up-shift it kind of builds power, sounds like that, it is more noticeable at 3000 t0 3500 rpm, as I roll up the throttle the rpm will rise, gradually, after returning from the ride I took all the plugs out, looking at the plugs; I noticed there is no residue of any color, no gray, no sod no wet nothing. temperature was fine (never had any issue with the temp anyway) Idles fine it has tremendous take off power, except when it gets close to 3-3500 rpm buzzzes more radical at first then less. I hope my research is not of line this is how much I could bring back with me riding at 27 f degrees.

ard