buzzzzzzzzzz

[Jethro]

Make sure to check chain alignment and wheel balance as well, but my money is on the carbies.

[earlfor]

I use Vesrah clutch plates in my 1150. They work perfectly. As I have said about 1150's, they do not tolerate a pretty close setup very well. The only thing they like is "spot on". If the clutch adjustment and tolerances are out of spec even a little bit, it will shift so hard you'll think something is broken. LOL
Also, if there has been a gas leak into the crankcase and the clutch linings have absorbed gas, my 1150 will spin the clutch easily. Only solution is fresh clutch plates that havent been contaminated with gas.

Earl

can I use Versah brand plates on this bike? or is the bike sensitive to aftermarket plates? and if I can use aftermarket what is a good brand?

ard

[earlfor]

If the carbs are out of synch, I can guarantee you the bike will not run smooth and vibration levels can be intolerable. I once rebuilt the carbs, did a manual synch and took the 1150 for a test ride before doing a finish/vacuum synch. The vibration had to be felt to be believed. My hands were completely numb halfway to my elbows in 5 minutes. This is on a bike that normally runs smooth as a turbine and is for all intents, vibration free at any rpm.

If vibration levels are high, I think you need to do a carb synch. I have found the carb synch needs to be within 1/2 cm across the board. Meaning, if the synch level is to be 25 cm, then all carbs must read between 24.75 cm and 25.25 cm. Put a fan on the engine when doing the synch. I do not run the engine for more than 5 minutes at a time.

I love the Vesrah clutch plates. I dont use anything else. I think you need new plates.

Earl

Hello earl, Nice doggy, if the carbs are out of sync would the bike run smooth?
also this season when I took the bike out for the first time without adjusting the clutch properly, (I don't know if there is a such thing) it slipped every time I rolled the throttle hard at medium speed around 40-50 mph, by adjusting the clutch it resolved that part, that is why I am doubting the clutch, if I need to buy new clutch discs; what would be your suggestion OEM or Aftermarket?


Ard

[Clone]

My question would be does the RPM continue to climb when this"buzz" starts,
If this happens, then suspect the clutch, if the RPM continue to rise slower and the power disappears, then I would suggest the carbs are starving for fuel, :?
Also check the airfilter, a seriously dirty air filter will starve your bike for air at higher rpm and rob you of power.

[ard]

Buzz

I am back, thank you all getting involved with the buzzzz, the machine idles very fine at little over 1000 rpm, which I think is a good neighborhood, it has nice power to take off, it feels like if you are driving a standard transmission vehicle, you know how it feels when you max the gear, the transmission will ask you to up-shift, so if you do not up-shift it kind of builds power, sounds like that, it is more noticeable at 3000 t0 3500 rpm, as I roll up the throttle the rpm will rise, gradually, after returning from the ride I took all the plugs out, looking at the plugs; I noticed there is no residue of any color, no gray, no sod no wet nothing. temperature was fine (never had any issue with the temp anyway) Idles fine it has tremendous take off power, except when it gets close to 3-3500 rpm buzzzes more radical at first then less. I hope my research is not of line this is how much I could bring back with me riding at 27 f degrees.

ard

[Doctor Shifty]

Check your petcock. There is a thread recently about a noisy petcock which proved to be not operating properly. Perhaps you are being starved of fuel once you get to a certain demand level. This could account for the lack of power you describe as well.

It's a bit confusing to me what you mean by 'buzz'. Is this a noise you can hear or a feeling of vibrations coming through either hands or feet?

I'm also with the carb sync as a strong possibiity. The effects of a slipping clutch will be smooth and rapid increase of revs with no increase of speed. and that slip will start happening at ever-decreasing revs as the plates glaze.

Kim

[bgk]

Shaunt,

Get on a highway with light traffic and no obstacles or sharp turns (maybe a quick blast on the Mass Pike from the Speen St. exit to the Rt. 9 exit).

Then, in third gear starting around 3000 RPM, grab a handful of throttle and see what happens. That bike should accelerate like a rocket, and within seconds you should be doing over 80 MPH and the RPM should be still climbing without hesitation. There should be a clear, direct relationship between the speedo needle climbing and the tach needle climbing. If not, you're clutch is slipping.

If the clutch is not slipping, and the bike doesn't accelerate like a banshee, and doesn't keep accelerating so fast that it scares you, then you've got a fuel delivery problem, probably carbs, maybe petcock, maybe kinked fuel line, maybe a clogged in-tank filter or in-line fuel filter, maybe a combination of two or more of these possible problems.

I've got some time on my hands today. If you want, ride over to my house and we can work together on your bike today. (Call me on the phone.)

[ard]

buzz

well as you all know I pulled the plugs out they looked very clean and dry in fact very dry, I have not seen plugs coming out of anything that dry, but regardless, I took fine sand paper and sanded the electrode and put them back.
To give more info, I don't get high mileage off of this bike, I fill up the tank it hardly gets to reserve at about 120 miles so if there is fuel starvation, could this mileage per gallon ratio would be real. As for the buzz, no I don't feel on the handle bar it feels like it is coming at the low end of the engine, this is why I am doubting the clutch, or like Jethro suggested the chain adjustment, on the center stand when I rotate the wheel, it seems to be very smooth. After sanding the plugs, the buz at 3000 rpm improved, in another words it was not as significant.
the bike was much quicker, but it still lacked that roll on power that everyone speaks of. I hope this will shed more light on the problem.

[earlfor]

My 85 1150 goes on reserve at 180 miles and takes 4 gallons when I fill it. At 180 miles, I have 1 1/4 gallons in reserve. I average 45 mpg. With your bike going on reserve at 120 miles, youre getting 15 mpg less than I am or about 30 mpg. I suspect your carb adjustments and synch are off quite a bit.
A possible contributing factor could be valve clearances and ignition timing being off a bit also. I know from experience I can "adjust" my gas milage by 10-12 mpg depending on how I set up the carbs and synch. One thing is for sure, at 30 mpg, it isnt tuned right.

If my 1150 was burning that much gas, there is no way the plugs would be clean and dry. I would be looking on the ground, in the airbox and in my crankcase for where the gas is going.

Earl

well as you all know I pulled the plugs out they looked very clean and dry in fact very dry, I have not seen plugs coming out of anything that dry, but regardless, I took fine sand paper and sanded the electrode and put them back.
To give more info, I don't get high mileage off of this bike, I fill up the tank it hardly gets to reserve at about 120 miles so if there is fuel starvation, could this mileage per gallon ratio would be real. As for the buzz, no I don't feel on the handle bar it feels like it is coming at the low end of the engine, this is why I am doubting the clutch, or like Jethro suggested the chain adjustment, on the center stand when I rotate the wheel, it seems to be very smooth. After sanding the plugs, the buz at 3000 rpm improved, in another words it was not as significant.
the bike was much quicker, but it still lacked that roll on power that everyone speaks of. I hope this will shed more light on the problem.

[ard]

I don't see any gas on the ground, however the first time I got to the air box, the air filter was wet with gasoline, I dried it up, I have not checked it sinse.So basically what I should start doing is 1- check the valve clearances, 2- sync the carbs, I don't know anything about the ignition timing, I should look into that also. So you think I should leave the clutch discs for last?

ard

[earlfor]

I think if youre adding throttle and rpm is increasing but mph isnt, you have a slipping clutch and that will need replacing. That is a separate problem from the "buzzing". A slight bit of play in the clutch basket could also account for a bit of noise, but that isnt anything to be concerned about. Anything I would describe as buzzing, I think would be related primarily to mixtures, synchronization and timing. If you have the stock electronic ignition, I dont believe that you have adjustable timing. If you have a Dyna, then incorrect timing could very well be part of the problem.

I would give my crankcase oil a thorough sniffing for gas odor. I would also keep a close eye on the oil level to see if the bike is "making oil" LOL
Might lift the lid on the airbox (under the seat) and give that a good sniff too.
all that gas has to be going somewhere.

As for valves, I perhaps have a slightly different view than most. As valves wear, clearance decreases. The one thing I dont want to hear is nothing. If I cant hear the valves, something is wrong. If the engine is unusually quiet running, thats not good. The valves shouldnt be loose enough to hear a hammering clatter or anything, but you should be able to hear them if you listen closely. Anytime I get a new bike, one of the first things I do is check valve clearances. Too many people never adjust them and its not uncommon to find a 20 year old bike with 20k miles with valves never adjusted.

so yeah, if it was me, I would check the valves and adjust as needed, check ignition timing if its aftermarket and then do carbs. After that, clutch.

Earl

I don't see any gas on the ground, however the first time I got to the air box, the air filter was wet with gasoline, I dried it up, I have not checked it sinse.So basically what I should start doing is 1- check the valve clearances, 2- sync the carbs, I don't know anything about the ignition timing, I should look into that also. So you think I should leave the clutch discs for last?

ard

[earlfor]

The only way I know for gas to get into the airbox is a leaking petcock diaphram. It isnt going to fix itself. hehehe If it was leaking, then it still is.

Earl

[QUOTE=ard]
I don't see any gas on the ground, however the first time I got to the air box, the air filter was wet with gasoline, I dried it up, I have not checked it sinse.

[ard]

buzzz

Later on today, I will do the sniffing, the oil, and the air box. Is there any way to check the valves without taking the cover off, like symptoms, overheating, rattling,stalling, or should I take the cover off, regardless and measure the valve clearances.

ard.

[earlfor]

kUnfortunately, I've not found any "shortcuts" that dont take longer and cost more than doing it right the first time. As you said. "take the cover off, regardless and measure the valve clearances." Whatchagotta do is whatchagotta do.

Earl

Later on today, I will do the sniffing, the oil, and the air box. Is there any way to check the valves without taking the cover off, like symptoms, overheating, rattling,stalling, or should I take the cover off, regardless and measure the valve clearances.

ard.

[ard]

Thank you all, I'll keep you posted.


ard