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'83 750ED forks and brakes.....

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    '83 750ED forks and brakes.....

    Couple of questions, guys and gals...

    I bought this bike a few weeks ago - it's my first GS, and I'm hooked. But the guy I bought it from was no rocket scientist, and definitely had no mechanical inclination (he had to have had the cleanest garage I've ever seen, and not a toolbox to be seen anywhere....). The little things I can handle - an oversized rear tire which rubs on the caliper arm, stock turn signals being none too attractively (read: hillbilly modification) replaced with undersized "accessory" lights... The turn signals and brake light switches are worn out, and he was completely topical when telling me, as if he'd been riding it with no lights for some time...

    I've got the electrics sorted out - including a rebuild of the turn signal switch (if your signals won't come on, and there's no positive feedback from the switch, there's a little spring inside the switch that centers the contact plate, and isolates the contacts when the switch is off - chances are it's toast. Ink pens make great parts donors.....). It's also got a 4-into-1 header of undetermined make with a Supertrapp slip-on - it runs great, and throttle response is tight, but it burbles a bit at sustained high-rpms, and stumbles a hitch at warm idle. I'm assuming the carbs will need to be synched, and I'll probably re-jet as I'm going to go with K&N pods. I'm just stoked over the fact that after many CB-Hondas, I've finally found an older Japanese bike with no leaks!!!

    But to get to the point, I was informed when I bought the bike that the fork seals had just been replaced - I can believe this, as there is no visible fluid on the sliders. But the front end is very unstable at low speed - when I test drove the bike, I thought it was just very neutral steering - after I got it home, I looked at the rake angle, and the obvious weight bias to the front, and realized that the steering should feel noticeably heavier than it does, and figured I might have a problem. I tried to equalize the fork air pressure with a bleeder-type dial air guage I bought for a previous bike, and found out that the forks on this bike are self-equalizing (hence the single valve and bit of hose...). But while I was checking the air pressure, some fork oil came out of the air nozzle - is this normal? Also, being that I can be counterproductively perfectionistic at times, is there a dead-on way to equalize fork oil levels? I'm familiar with the process, but have never done it due to the fact that I can't see how to make positively sure that it's done right (taking into acount any fluid left in the forks, proper amount dispensed, etc....). My problem is that at moderate speed, sweeping turns are great. At low speed, however (parking lots, driveways, right turns from a stop), the bike is very sensitive to steering input, and feels very twitchy. I'm assuming fork oil or air seals, but haven't ruled out steering head bearings - I notice today that while straddling the bike, there was a noticeable click (felt, not heard) when I'd center the forks when turning them from both the left and the right. There's no noticeable play while trying to rock the bike with the front brakes applied, nor when loading the front end by tapping the front brakes while rolling.....

    I know I'll probably just end up replacing the bearings, changing the fork oil, and adjusting the entire front end, but was wondering if anybody else has had the same experience (about the bike, not about being a crazy anal person).

    And the brakes - Does anyone know where I can find an OEM replacement rear rotor? This one's warped, and I'd rather not have it machined (which would just increase the chances of it warping again...). I'd even take a serviceable used one, but can't seem to find one after hours of looking....

    Finally - I would like to run hotter aftermarket coils (such as Accel Supercoils and 8.8 wires), but after reading about the potential faults in GS bikes' charging systems, I was wondering if anyone has upgraded the ignition system and experienced any problems?

    Thanks for any help!!

    -Q!

    #2
    I have a 84 GS 750. I think you are on the right track with the steering head bearings. If you change them your problem should go away. Buy the bearings at a bearing store, cheaper than the dealer. As for the rear disk. I probabley have an extra one, if you are interested.

    Kevan

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      #3
      Thanks...!

      Thanks, Kevan. I'm thinking that if I pull the forks to change the bearings, I might as well change the fork oil, too....

      Let me know how much you want for the disc - I'll check on shipping....

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        #4
        I too have an 83 GS 750ED. I bought my bike 2 months ago in poor shape. I had to have the front forks rebuilt and replace both the front brake switch, and the clutch starter switch. you can bet both from http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/ for $10/ea.

        As for the Accel coils. I have them for my bike, but they came separate from it. I can't figure out for the life of me how to get them to fit where the stock coils are. There just isn't enough room there for them.

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          #5
          The fork oil level should be measured with each leg removed from the bike. The spring should be removed and the fork fully compressed. The oil should be 6.7" from the top of the tube. It is normal for a small amount of oil to escape when checking the air.

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            #6
            When i first started to ride my '83 GS750ED, I also thought the steering was twichy. My brother who rides a CBK thought it was quick, compared to his bike. I do find it is sensitive at low speeds. I did have a problem with the fork oil not being equal, so I just changed it and balanced the levels. It handled differently, but still sensitive at low speeds. If there is click (heard) or notch (felt) when turning the bars, replace the bearings. I have ridden a bike where sitting and turning the bars showed no problem, but when grabbing a handfull of brake, the head bearings would click.

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks for the tips - I'll tear it apart this weekend....

              Comment


                #8
                Some other thoughts and observations from another '83 GS750es owner.
                Insure your front tire is not too wide and properly inflated(35psi); 90/90/16 is stock, 100/90/16 is ok. wider and handling will suffer. This is based on your using a stock width rim.
                Steeing head bearings as already mentioned.
                My '83 is very sensitive to rider input...ie. too tight of grip on the bars actually can induce some low speed wobbles and a general feeling of instability when deacclerating. One other suggestion. Try using the search function to find a boat load of info on the '83GS750's and '85GS700's.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I just wanted to say thanks to Kevan for shipping me the rear brake rotor. Not that I'm trying to set up an ebay feedback page here, but he really helped me out.

                  Not only did he sell me the rotor for a great price, but he even measured the rotor with a micrometer, then threw it on a lathe to check the runout. Imagine how the world would be if people put that kind of extra effort into even half of the things they did.

                  Thanks again, Kevan!

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                    #10
                    If you aren't sure about when the fork-oil was replaced last, I would suggest do it now!! The "manual-way"is pretty intensive but it can be done within an hour or less. No need to remove the legs as the manual states, but just put it on the centerstand (elevated so you can get the front all the way up). Drain the old goo, remove the two caps and nuts on the top (BEWARE: there are springs loading these) and remove seals and springs. While you are at it, check the spring lenght as well.

                    Fill the legs up with the proper amount of oil and off you go.

                    PS do you have the Anti-Dive hooked up?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I was reading this again and noticed a lot or people feeling a click when turning the handlebars even after replacing the bearings. I too thought I needed to replace the bearings in my 83 after feeling the click... but I found the problem. With the tank removed you can see that, when you turn the bars, the choke cable and throttle cable both rub up against the frame and occasionally get snagged. I have yet to find a way to prevent it from happening.

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                        #12
                        Thanks, Matt. I'll have to check into it...

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I reconditioned the forks on my 1983 GS750ES last August. As I had not done it myself before, I put all the steps in an MSWord doc....if you would like a copy send me a PM. I replaced seals, inner and outer "anti-friction" bushings, dust covers, etc. Also, I installed Progressive Suspension springs (with 15W fork oil vs. standard 10W, and no air pressure) to replace the standard OEM items.....great improvement.

                          Simon

                          P.S. The work shop manual is a great help (if you can find one).

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Aftermarket coils

                            Matt, on the subject of your Accel coils, I'm running Dyna green coils not Accel's but I also found they would not fit in the stock location. I had to fabricate some small angled brackets to get them tucked in along the frame where they wouldn't rub on anything.
                            Doze.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Q,
                              I had an '83 750 ES, great bike but very sensitive to tire sizes and suspension set up. I'd start with a good set of quality tires like Metzlers. Go to their web site and check the application chart for the correct size and model. I also agree with Simone regarding the Progressive fork springs and heavier oil. It'll make a big difference in the high speed stability and don't worry it'll still be plenty smooth. If you want the forks to perform more like a modern bike, I recommend adding the Race Tech Emmulators.
                              Regarding coils. Unless your coils/wires have gone bad or you've raised the compression on the engine, aftermarket coils will do nothing for the performance.
                              Axel

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