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    Next up.... clutch issues!

    Been riding my baby all week, freezing my ass off. It's been great since I got her back together, thanks again for the help from all you brains around here.
    Anyway, need to rectify this clutch next, here's what i got:

    Around 6k at full throttle the clutch slips like a madman. And it's not like it's subtle, its all at once followed by me cursing. I adjusted the cable so the pivot arm on the clutch is fully extended when the lever is relaxed (i.e. the clutch is fully engaged). Freeplay is a couple of mm as specified, so I think that I have everything dialed in like I should. I have zippy experience with multi plate wet clutches, I've only done a few single plate diaphragm spring-types, so I don't really know what usual symptoms are with these things.
    So what do you think; time for a clutch job?

    #2
    yep, time for clutch job!

    Comment


      #3
      Thats what I figured. Now when looking at the fiche, http://tinyurl.com/zdmh2 ,
      what do I need to get other than the plates? And is it correct that I need seven $5.00 plates and eight $12.00 plates? Seems pricey, but I know exactly nothing about what these things normally cost.

      Comment


        #4
        clutch?

        Some links have noted slippage with an otherwise good clutch if you use a synthetic oil. The links said it is too slipery for a clutch that stays wet. I have NO experience with this just thought I would post the information for you.

        Comment


          #5
          Nah, synth oil has nothing to do with slipping clutches. If the clutch was that far gone, it would have started slipping with the next oil change regardless of oil type.

          Most likely all you need are the fiber plates, not the steel plates. You can get aftermarket Vesrah clutch plates at very friendly prices from many vendors, such as Cycle Recycle II ( http://crc2onlinecatalog.com/ ). You will probably also want to order up new clutch springs. Of course, you can also just order the OEM parts. You'll also need a clutch cover gasket, of course.

          If you haven't had the clutch cover off yet, you'll want to be ready to replace the cheddar cheese phillips head screws with high-quality stainless steel allen head screws. Don't forget the anti-sieze.

          Removing the clutch cover, removing the six clutch bolts, and replacing the fibers is child's play. There's usually no need to remove the cluch hub itself, so you don't need to worry about that giant nut in the middle or anything flying out at you.
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          Comment


            #6
            Remember to loosen and tighten the spring bolts in a criss cross pattern.

            You may also want to soak the fiber plates in fresh oil prior to installation. A large ziploc bag seemed to work for me.

            Its tough to receive parts and wait another day while the plates soak, but its probably worthwhile.

            I had stretched bolts holding my clutch springs (threads were visibly twice as wide as normal) so those should be replaced as well.

            Check the steel plates for any blueing or warpage.

            Its possible to change the plates without draining the oil, but if the oils been in there awhile get some fresh stuff in there.
            GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES

            Comment


              #7
              Alright, so then it seems the consensus is that a fiber plate kit from that cyclerecycle joint along with the spring should do it, huh?

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by qslim
                Alright, so then it seems the consensus is that a fiber plate kit from that cyclerecycle joint along with the spring should do it, huh?
                I believe that the Vesrah Clutch Disc Sets may be less expensive at Cyclepages.com.

                Comment

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