Timing Chain

[Anonymous]

You should be able to press out the pin on any given link. It has been recommended to me in the past to grind off the head of the selected link and just push the pin through. I would NEVER use an abrasive grinding wheel in or over or near an open engine though.

I have in the past used a chain link remover for a push bike, it needed a little modifying to accept the link, and the pin (part of the link remover) that does the pushing needed grinding down a bit. It got me out of trouble.
Surely someone knows of a better way though.

[Anonymous]

My mechanic says he changes timing chains without taking the engine apart

Slopoke, query him how he gets a solid loop around the crank and the cams?
I just don't see how it is possible without pulling the end caps and engine covers.

Perhaps you took my statement just a bit to litteraly--I should have said without pulling the jugs and splitting the cases.

[Anonymous]

Clone, How long will that chain last at 3500lbs of tensil strenght that should be good for a 250 not a 750 a $140.oo O-ring chain will give you about 11,000 lbs of tensil strenght and last well over 20,ooo miles. If you put one on your bike it would last you the rest of your life never going over 6000rpm I have had the same chain on my bike for almost 8 years granted I don't ride on the street as much as most but it has seen over a thousand 1/4 mile passes. one of these days you might decide to get on your bike a little bit and if it breaks it could go through your cases.
If your dead set on using farm equitment on your bike use a stronger chain for the bike sake

[Anonymous]

Clone, How long will that chain last at 3500lbs of tensil strenght that should be good for a 250 not a 750 a $140.oo O-ring chain will give you about 11,000 lbs of tensil strenght and last well over 20,ooo miles. If you put one on your bike it would last you the rest of your life never going over 6000rpm I have had the same chain on my bike for almost 8 years granted I don't ride on the street as much as most but it has seen over a thousand 1/4 mile passes. one of these days you might decide to get on your bike a little bit and if it breaks it could go through your cases.
If your dead set on using farm equitment on your bike use a stronger chain for the bike sake

I have meant to ask what part of south west fla do you live in. I also fooled with hand puppets for a while an did a bit of ventrilloquism

[Clone]

Well, I don't know how a #50 chain could be rated at 11,000 lbs, 5000 is the strongest ag chain in this size. I have equipment that uses #70 which is rated 10,000 and it is a bear of a chain. It could be just like tractors rated at 130HP are really different from a bike rated at 130HP a bike chain rated at 11000 could be comparable to a 5000 ag chain. I don't know for sure. But I am like grandma, I just tool around on my bike, I will probably put an Oring chain on if I am going on a long tour just to save the hassle of lubing. But for me around town and the occasional short highway trip this chain is fine.

[earlfor]

Although the amount of lubing you need to do with an "O" ring chain is minimal, you still have to keep it lubed.
The #630 heavy duty "O" ring chain I'm using is rated at 11.500 lbs tensile strength. I have about 12,000 street miles on it now on a 750E and it has not needed the first adjustment. Stretch and sprocket wear are undetectable.
I keep it well chain lubed too. For just putting around town, you probably would never wear one out. In the long run, its cheaper to buy a good chain and new sprockets and only do it once. When a cheap chain stretches/wears out, it will take the sprockets with it, so everytime you replace the cheap chain, youre also going to need two sprockets. When a chain nears the end of its useful life, stretching starts to accelerate.
If you replace the chain when increased stretch rate is first noted, you will not normally need to replace sprockets.
I've run a set of sprockets for over 100,000 miles, but to do so, you must keep a close eye on chain and sprocket condition/wear.

Earl




[quote="Clone"]Well, I don't know how a #50 chain could be rated at 11,000 lbs, 5000 is the strongest ag chain in this size.

[Clone]

I guess in the spring I will head out shopping for an oring chain. Call me stubborn, but I still like the idea of spit cam chain.

[Anonymous]

Clone:
You can still get motorcycle cam chain with a link in it. I've never replaced a cam chain but if I had a linked chain I would just cut the old one, hook into it with the valves at TDC so they don't bust, and crank the new chain into the engine.

Steve

[Clone]

Steve my impression from what I read was that you could not. My Brother is in need of a new chain and he is thinking to roll a split one in, but his dealer, Honda told him he would have to get a continuous one. Who knows? My engine is still young (roughly 25000km) so it is not a big worry for me now.

[saaz]

If you have done a search on this topic you will have seen what I previously said. I have run my linked heavy duty cam chain for many years, although I must say these days, for the sake of keeping the old bike going, I dont fully utilise the power, rarely going above 6000rpm.