1980 gs 550 L : first timer, how to pull carbs

[rlevenson]

I cleaned a spare set of carbs with the help of the carb series. Then I thought I was going to get to the easy part which would be putting them in the bike. To do that, the rack of carbs now mounted in the bike needs to come out, natch. On the 80 gs 550 L the airbox is tight against the frame, then moving forward the boots, carb rack and intake pipes connecting to the cylinder head all make a nice snug fit.

Question: what's the best way to pull the carbs. I thought it might be removing the bolts retaining the intake manifolds to the cylinder head first, but with the limited space available I am not seeing how to get to the manifolds' inner lower bolt heads ? When relieving the retaining rings on the boots and manifolds I can start to get some play but not enough to get comfortable pulling stuff apart.

Tank is off so there is ok visibility. Maybe this is a finger dexterity issue ? Or because I have not done this before I am missing the obvious.


Thanks for all the good info.

--Richard

1980 gs 550 L

[DimitriT]

0. remove tank, breather hose and choke cable
1. loosen all the hose clamps (8 of them)
2. loosen the bolt and screws holding the airbox to the frame
3. pull the airbox aft away from the carbs - this should cause it to move
about 1/4 to 1/2 inch
4. straddle the bike and put a hand on each outermost carb - twist clockwise until the engine side openings are free
5. disconnect throttle cable
6. reassume the position from step 4 and pull the rack out the right side while twisting - watch the clutch cable is free between carbs #1 and #2

If the carbs will be off the bike for some time, stuff towels in the intake boots. So that bugs or rodents don't nest.

Reinstalling is the reverse. Just make sure the boots fit snug before tightening the hose clamps.

[jimcor]

Years ago there was an old Country Western truck driving song called "There Ain't No Easy Runs". Well there ain't no easy way to pull/install the carbs on an 80 550L. It's a royal pita.

Leave the intake manifolds alone. Your chances of getting them off using just a screwdriver are slim to none. Unless they're leaking or rotted leave well enough alone.

You're probably gonig to have to remove the tool tray, the airbox and aircleaner to remove the carbs. Everything comes out on the left side of the bike. Be careful not to damage the cables. Remove them while on the intake manifolds. Install them BEFORE mounting the carbs to the manifolds. You'll also have to disconnect the clutch cable at the lever to get enough slack to move it out of the way.

Careful, Dimitri's carbs are different than yours and mine. Ours are removed from the left side of the bike. The rotor and stator side...

The job is a pain, but it can be done. Might be worth gettting a manual so you've got a few pics to work with.

[ddaum]

I agree with Jim. We all have the same bike here. Pull the carbs out on the left side of the bike. The very first time I did this I ended up wrestling it for at least two hours (that was putting them back in).
Practice makes perfect. Here is what I do on my bike:

1. Pull the gas tank and frame side covers, also remove the plastic chrome covers from each side of the airbox.

2. Remove the three bolts holding the airbox to the frame (two on top forward of the filter cover, and one on the right just above the fuse boxes)

3. Remove the choke cable buy pulling the slide to the left and disengaging the cable end.

4. Loosen all 8 clamps on the intake and airbox boots.

5. Straddle the bike and while holding #1 and #4 carbs pull back to remove the carbs from the intake boots, at the same time tilt the front of the carbs up above the intake boots.

6. Once those are clear, hold the airbox back and push the carbs clear of the airbox boots. In reality they will never get "clear of the boots" but there is barely enough room to wiggle them out without damaging any of the rubber.

7. Now that the carbs are free of the boots on both sides slowly wiggle them out to the left side of the bike making sure to move the clutch cable as the carbs move to the left.

8. Once the carbs are halfway out you can remove the throttle cable end easily.

9. Now just wiggle them out the rest of the way.

10. Installation is reverse, but be sure that your carb vent and fuel lines are connected to the carb assembly before you put them back in because you won't really be able to get the lines on after the carbs are installed. If you are replacing the intake boots be sure to use new o-rings and hardware. It also helps to lube the boots up on both sides with something (I used silicone spray) to help with installation.

This procedure isn't easy at all, but with practice it gets easier.
Good luck

[DimitriT]

I've tried left side and right side, but I must say right side (right hand side of the rider) seems to work better for me. On my bike the clutch cable routes between #1 and #2 which means I have to clear 3 carb bodies past the cable if I go left, but just one if I go right. I guess if your cable route is different it may be easier going the other way.

[DimitriT]

BTW, Jim, off topic:

how do you like your Concours. I'm trying to decide on a "next bike" and want something for touring (200-300 miles) with two up potential. I'm also considering another project bike (probably a GS850G of early 80s vintage) as well.

[rlevenson]

Encouragement, advice, humor, carbs. Excellent.

Thanks to all gsresources.

--Richard

[jimcor]

BTW, Jim, off topic:

how do you like your Concours. I'm trying to decide on a "next bike" and want something for touring (200-300 miles) with two up potential. I'm also considering another project bike (probably a GS850G of early 80s vintage) as well.

It's big, it's very heavy, it's fast, it handles well for an old mid 80s bike (that is still made in 2006, although this is probably the last year for the Connie.) It too can be a pain to work on because of the 'Tupperware' that has to be removed or worked around but most of the work you can do yourself. I like it. Visit www.concours.org check out the club.

[chef1366]

Punishment

Get pods and only punish yourself for awhile.

[trickyarcher]

Is it Much different for an 1985 GS550L?

Hi, Guys,
I just picked up an 85 GS550L at an auction for $350. It started briefly before the auction but wouldn't start after the purchase?

I've gone through the natural progression of:

1) Got fuel?
Check

2) Got Spark?
Check

3) Petcock flows?
Check

I pulled the plugs and they were as black as a coal miner's a$$ crack and just as dusty and dry. I have to assume that fuel is not getting through the carbs and they probably need a good cleaning.

I'm technically savvy and mechanically inclined, but I'm without a garage. Can I do this in a day in my apartment building's lot? With just your guide and my Clymer's manual? We're being blessed with great weather in DC for the next few days, but I don't want to leave my bike in pieces if I don't have to.

I got an estimate from a couple of bike shops that specialize in "oldies but goodies" that range between $250-$280. That price includes cleaning, rebuilding, synching, etc. Plus the cost to tow it to either shop starts at $60.

I knew I would have to put some money into this bike, and I think I got a deal. But $310+ is a little steep if it's something I can do myself well in two days.

Thanks,
Damien

[nabrams]

Damien,

Unless you KNOW that the shop is good don't even think about bringing it to them.
You're going to have to meticulously clean the carbs and verify that everything is working properly (no torn diaphragms, leaking floats, plugged jets, etc.). You'll need to invest between 30 to 60 hours of time (if you've never worked on bikes) to go through your bike and verify all the typical problem areas (air/exhaust leaks, carb issues, charging issues, valve clearance, and so on...) - see my other posts about restoring bikes that have been sitting for a while. You'll need to buy some tools. You'll need a good manual (Clymer is decent, shop manual better).
After all that you'll know your bike's condition fairly well. You'll most likely have issues pop up every season, so it pays to know your bike. You'll also save a ton of money and do a better job than the shop does.
For me, the whole point of these 80s era bikes is to be able to work on them and not have to pay exorbitant fees to shops. I started with very little knowledge and with the help of this great forum I've restored four non-running bikes over the past 5 years (Two GS450s, a Honda XL350 and a Honda CB750).
If you've got lots of cash, just buy a new bike and be done with it.

Good Luck, and keep us posted on your progress.

[wesleyweazel]

carb pulling

I had the same problem trying to remove my carbs. At the end of a lot of frustration and swearing I took a piece of pipe and used it for leaverage. I put the pipe inbetween the engine and the carbs and levered the one side out first. Obviously check if your going to damage anything first using the pipe.

For the refitting process all you have to do is get hold of a hairdryer. Warm the rubber boots up on the engine for about a minute and you should be able to get the carbs back on only using your hands. Remember to hook the throttle cable in before you fit the carbs. It is so much easier than trying to pry the carbs into cold boots.

[trickyarcher]

nabrams rocks along with everyone else at GSR

Damien,

Unless you KNOW that the shop is good don't even think about bringing it to them.
You're going to have to meticulously clean the carbs and verify that everything is working properly (no torn diaphragms, leaking floats, plugged jets, etc.). You'll need to invest between 30 to 60 hours of time (if you've never worked on bikes) to go through your bike and verify all the typical problem areas (air/exhaust leaks, carb issues, charging issues, valve clearance, and so on...) - see my other posts about restoring bikes that have been sitting for a while. You'll need to buy some tools. You'll need a good manual (Clymer is decent, shop manual better).
After all that you'll know your bike's condition fairly well. You'll most likely have issues pop up every season, so it pays to know your bike. You'll also save a ton of money and do a better job than the shop does.
For me, the whole point of these 80s era bikes is to be able to work on them and not have to pay exorbitant fees to shops. I started with very little knowledge and with the help of this great forum I've restored four non-running bikes over the past 5 years (Two GS450s, a Honda XL350 and a Honda CB750).
If you've got lots of cash, just buy a new bike and be done with it.

Good Luck, and keep us posted on your progress.

Gentlemen,
I figured you guys were due for an update. During the time off between jobs, I swapped out the spark plugs, replaced the broken clutch cable, and drained the floats. And that's all she needed to startup!!\\/

She runs a little rough but she runs strong. The air filter looks like it hasn't been cleaned in the 14k miles that were on the bike when i bought it, but it still pulls hard. I need to change the oil and get a new air filter, and the carbs will need cleaning sooner rather than later along with a general tune-up, but I'm tooling around with my very first motorcycle.:-D

I've only ridden for a couple of hours in the parking lot, but it's amazing how quickly you adjust to the bike's speed if you take 10 minutes off here and there.

My bike needs a paint job, but I could cover up the oxidation on the tank with a bag.

I'm going to look for information about painting and replacing the turn signals all around, but I wanted to thank you again for your responses.

Damien

[jimcor]

Change that oil and filter! Takes only a 1/2 hour. Since it looks like you want to ride, who doesn't it's Spring \\/ , 'sted of wrench go to Auto Zone or Advance or Pep Boys and get a can of Berryman's B-12 Chem-tool or Sea Foam. Follow the instructions, don't inhale the vapours or spill it on the tank. You might be surprised at how that machine will smooth itself out. Have fun, be careful.

[Billyboy]

What does this sea-foam stuff do?