Front brakes don't work good: 750L '79~

[5RON5]

Hi! I have a 750L;w/15,000K! Fairly well maintained. I ride kind'a hard, & I've bled front & back brakes & adjusted the back peddle; I can not get the front brakes to a full hand grip! It's like on an adjustable set of brakes, you would really be looking to adjust them, which I discovered, there is NO adjusting these! I checked the pads,after lifting the peel-a-boo covers, & they look to be about 2/3 thick! Maybe a 'lil less. But usually on a car, I wouldn't hesitate to leave them alone w/that much pad left. Am I wrong to think I don't need to re-pad? Is that the only thing left to get full hand braking? My brake goes all the way to the handle bars, when I am going kind'a fast! But not that fast. If I ever had to use them in a flash, I'd be afraid they wouldn't stop me completely! I do use them in conjunction w/the back brake when stopping. I need a 'lil input please..Thank you for all your help so far!!!!!

[duaneage]

Sounds like air in the lines. Try new copper washers on the fittings. Use a torque wrench so you don't overdo it.

If that does not work look at the hoses. If they bulge up when you hit the brakes replace them with Stainless Steel lines, they are much better. bwringer is a member here and PM him for advice on how to make your own for less money.

If that doesn't get it then try a new master cylinder. It is up to you to try the MC before the lines. I would go with a new master cylinder, personally. Stopping a bike is not something I want to save money on.

[JayH]

Make sure you top off the master cylinder and don't let it get too low when you bleed the brakes or you will let air into the system.

Rule of thumb for the brake pads; if you cannot see the wear mark (indentation in the brake pad material) or if the pad is as thick (or thinnner) than the metal backing plate it is time to replace the pads.

[kalessin]

When I last bled the front brakes twice on my GS1100GL, I had to do it twice because after the first time, there were somehow bubbles still in the system and the brake lever still felt spongy.

I ran a lot of fluid through the system the second time, and that did the trick. (I use the simplest method of brake bleeding -- just a piece of narrow clear hose from the bleeder bolt into a peanut-butter jar 1/4 full of brake fluid so it can't suck air back in; and then pour fluid into the master cylinder and cycle it through the system). Dual-brake systems sometimes hang air bubbles in the "Y" connector, bleed both sides multiple times.

The condition of the brake lines is important, and replacing them every few years is part of standard maintenance. Cracked casings, any bulges or other signs of age, mean replacement. Lots of people like the braided-steel lines, but the regular rubber ones should be just fine if you're on a budget.

[5RON5]

Brakes!

I will do all things necessary to correct this problem! I will also PM; bwringer for his opinion on doing steel lines the easy & less expensive way! & the tip by;Joel, of doing a lot longer bleed! I never would have thought I'd have to do that much bleeding on such'a short distance to the calipers! Then again, you are right about there being 2 to go through w/a tee! BUT: duaneage said to get some new "copper washers" for the fittings? Where do they go? Do I have to get them through ordering w/a Suzuki part # also? Damn, everything takes so long when ya have to replace things w/these bikes, huh? I know Suzuki isn't making any more parts for these bikes, especially mine, being a '79! I have been waiting so long now-(2 weeks) for a bunch'a parts from 'flatoutmotorcycles.com', after catching a fire in the air box & 1/2 way melting my air cleaner, along w/hoses & the like-& then I discover I have to clean out all the old gas tank sealer that's peeling in tank! My god, I will never be back on the road! I'm not really whining, I love doing the work, but waiting is murder! I still can not adjust my chain right! I tried again yesterday after reading the posts! I don't understand where I would put 2 strings, or how or where to measure the distance of the 2 wheels at! Every time I go to do one side, & then the other, the damn thing gets to tight again! I am afraid of the "left to right" adjustment more than just how loose the chain is suppose to be! Isn't that the most critical? Other than being to tight? Any help on these matters will be honestly appreciated, sincerely!!!

[tkent02]

Might try this....

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=88468

[kalessin]

Waiting for parts is a pain, but at least there are still many parts available for the common wear items. Could be worse, talk to the guys who ride pre-1970 bikes...

The copper washers are the ones that are installed to each side of the banjo fittings at the ends of the brake line hoses, one under the bolt head, and the other on the other side of the "banjo" fitting. (Banjo fittings, when looked at without a hose attached to them and no bolt going through, look kind of like a round banjo frame with the neck attached). The washers seal the brake fluid inside the system.

[rckrzy1]

My 750 was like that when I got my bike, bleed the lines, got new pads, got a brand new master cylinder, replaced the line with a new SS line,still could pull to the handle bars, then I tried to brake out of drive way with the wheel turned and it went straight to the bars, so that was the last straw. Pulled the caliper off, found WATER in there behind piston, cleaned up, re bleed system and all is well.

[5RON5]

brakes!

I will remember all that! Damn, these bikes are a bit temperamental w/small things, aren't they? Well, I'll concede to them being a very dependable ride, though! I love 'em! And, I don't know what I'd do w/o all the help w/these things that only you people would know! Thank you so much! So, I need to replace the copper washers too, huh? I saw on one of the sites for parts, about some brass washers. Would copper still be the best for replacement?

[SqDancerLynn1]

Do you have dual disks ?? If the master was for a single it wouldn't push enough fluid. The hose in the container is the easiest way to blead them. I have a 77 GS 750, could not get the front brake to work Turns out one of the lines was colapsed inside

[5RON5]

Brakes!

Yes, I have duel's! You mean 1 of you lines inside the M.C. was collapsed? Man, how'd it even work at all then? God, I hope nothing like that happens to me! I'd never find it! 'Cause as soon as I forget about all this, I probably will! HA! So when it comes to that, I usually write stuff like that down on a booklet i have so I won't forget!