I dumped my baby today....

[focus frenzy]

I hope you dont mind, but I did some adjusting on picture "f" and put the adjusted version in with the other pictures, and also imported it to here so other people can see it.
[img]http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RwAdA9wVSyJEEo4A1jSA7XLVzSC7qNOzdfdFe9VC760Xkwftj 2eP8Sn0uIK!AFXryM4KkErGdO7K1NjVwLZA*PUIayOKSgZX*Ls KGVdt9qU/oopps.jpg?dc=4675401037556429340[/img]

hope this works, it is a realy long address!
how deep are the gouges in the case around the ignition trigger plate?
the cover needs to seal well to keep mousture out.

[focus frenzy]

The top right screw boss has been broken off, not good It may be posible to find a shop that can weld aluminum, that would weld up where the mounting boss was and re-drill and tap it.
If not you may need to replace the engine case.$$$$$
the two remaining screws will probably work, the cover is not structual, but covers up the ignition pickups and crank end, you will however need to use plenty of silicone to seal it up to keep out mousture.

[Anonymous]

I don't mind at all. In fact, I should have done that before I posted it. Unfortunately, the case is pretty gouged, but I don't think any of them are deep. Would silicon be a good enough seal? A good enough moisture barrier? Especially if I only can use 2 out of 3 screws?...
If ya'll have any doubts, I may not proceed at all. I really don't think the bike is worth the $$'s to replace the engine case, although I am awfully attached to it...

[focus frenzy]

Silicone will work fine, it will stick to just about everything.
If you use Yamaha "yamabond" or Permiteck(sp?) grey, the color will blend in with the natural color of the case and it wont be as noticable.

[Doze]

ignition cover damage

Shoe, you should be able to repair the mounting boss with some JB weld. If you use the Quik set stuff you will find it easier to create the shape you want. Once you get what want simply file the face flat, then drill and tap the hole for the mounting screw. With it being a non structural area you shouldn't have any problems at all. You can also use the JB weld to repair the gouges so your new cover will seal up properly. Same method fill the gouges then file them flush with the case. Once you're all done with that get some rattle-can paint same color as your engine, or just black the whole engine out and voila no-one will ever know you dropped it.
Doze.

[Hap Call]

I think youre correct Don. Since the 3" ignition assembly mount bolt is threaded into the end of the crankshaft, it is extremely doubtful that the crank could be bent in a low speed mishap. Crankshafts are hardened, supported in bearings and have a much larger cross section than the bolt. Its a matter of form factor and stress load capability. The bolt will not be as hard as the crank and the form factor will/should guarantee that it will either bend or break before the crankshaft will deform. The bolt should be intentionally engineered to sheer or deflect before damaging the crank. I would be very surprised if the crank was bent.

Earl

You need to remove everything that is under the cover, set up a dial indicator on the crank end (there is not very much that sticks out of the cases) and check for runout while spinning the motor by hand (put it on the centerstand, remove the spark plugs, put it in 5th gear and spin the back tire in its normal direction). I don't think a low speed crash could easily bend the crank. Were you able to ride the bike home after the crash?

I'm with Don and Earl on this...if it hit hard enough to bend the crank, you would have seen a lot more damage to other parts of the bike. I am 99.99% positive it is only in the ingition trigger part that attaches to the crank. If the crank is bent it would be only the right-hand crankshaft (Suzuki part # 12220-49202). If any more is bent, then there is probably extensive damage to the cases and the engine would be a total write-off. I would be amazed if anything else other than the bolt holding the advance assembly were bent (besides the cover, which must be a total loss).

Hap

[Dave_A]

When I was checking out my bike after buying it (it did not run at the time), I opened the clutch housing. To do this, I had to remove the parts you're talking about (smaller bike, but similar parts, just a few less of them, and fortunately all of it is below cover-level (since I had a similar incident that resulted in the 'Suzuki' emblem falling off, a bent headlight, and a slight handlebar bend)).

They were attached to the crankshaft by a small center bolt that went through a larger bolt and held the whole (ignition timing) assembly on the shaft. That bolt looks easily bendable, and I'd guess that's what you bent...

[Anonymous]

Don't discount the possibility of a bent crank. I picked up a 1980 GS 250, which is identical under the right side "points cover" (or signal generator cover if you have a CDI ignition) to the bigger bikes. The 250 had a bent crank from someone previously laying the bike down. It is definitely a possibility.

[Anonymous]

first new parts...

To the immediately previous post, I really hope that's not that case. I really think it's probably that nut that screws onto the crank. However, before spending a boat load of money, I'll figure out how to make sure even if that means shipping to a garage.
On a positive note, I just purchased my first new parts for it. Yesterday, I bought off of ebay a really nice set of black case guards. I guess of all the stuff I've got to by, this would seem like it should be last, but I got 'em for $40! I think it's a good deal. If only I'd had them when I went down to begin with... :roll:

[Anonymous]

SHOE 24

Gosh, the exactly same thing that happened yo you, happened to me too !
I have a 1981 GSX 400E, when I got it, it had been layed down, but in my case the ATU unit (the one mounted on your crank) was broken off. The guys who laid it down, rode illegaly, so they got the bike home in a hurry and put it in a shed. I inspected the bike and saw that the the ATU was only bent (and actually broken loose). The crank was NOT bent as they thought.

The same day as we discovered that, the owners wanted to see if they could get the bike to run again, so they made a mess out of the threads in the crank, trying to remove the old bolt that stood broken in the crank(with out succes). However they managed to get the ATU onto that crank somehow, and the bike fired right up!.

I got the bike, and had to fix the damn problem. I had to drill up the old hole (in the crank, the hole with threads, for the mounting bolt that was going to hold the ATU) . The previous owners did not manage to drill properly, because they hadn`t used oil when drilling. I drilled up the hole, infact up to (a little over 10mm), then I used a "sleeving machine" (I don`t know if that is the right name for it in english, just like those machines that they use in wood production, for making "round shapes"), and made a little "thing" that fitted into the hole that I already had drilled in the crank. (the "thing" had to fit perfectly, I calculated how big it should be , (I used a press-method to get it fastened to the crank). Then I drilled a 6mm hole in this thing , made threads in it and put it into the hole in the crank, using a press method.

I`ve driven over 1000km since the job was done !!
Well, alot of maybe un-useful information in your case, but if you have any doubts, mail me, I`m your man !.

Here you can see some pictures of my ATU problem , before I fixed it properly

http://www.djmongoriders.com/atuproblemet.htm

The main Suzuki part of my homepage (norwegian)

http://www.djmongoriders.com/minsusi.htm

http://www.djmongoriders.com/misusinu.htm

Some pics of my Suzy now, after new paint and some stuff =)


Well.
Hope you will figure out your problem.

Joakim, Norway.

[Jay B]

First things first. All that everyone said is correct BUT all for naught if the crank is bent. Someone said it already, put a runout gauge on it to see if its bent. If not then go from there.

[Anonymous]

Ok

Kimoaj, thanks for the good information, and nice bike. If all goes well with mine, I'd like to put up a site with some cool pictures too.

Jay B.
You're absolutely right, if the crank is bent, it's a whole different story, and one where I am much less happy...
What is a runout gauge? I was going to take the plugs out, put the bike on the center stand, and spin the tire thinking that if the crank was bent, I'd feel something wrong. Is this not the case? Keep in mind, I'm not an engine person, but I'm trying really hard...
Thanks again everyone for all the good information.

[Anonymous]

Heya !

Seems like a good idea to remove the spark plugs and then try to pull it around. If the crank is bent, I bet you wouldn`t even manage to turn it around. However I advise you to remove the ATU unit from the crank, and then get someone to look at the crank, while turning the engine.
How hard was the "crash" ? much speed ?

I bet the crank isn`t bent, the crank is made of a damn hard material, and it takes alot power to bend it.

Joakim , Norway

[Anonymous]

I was, luckily, in a parking lot, but something with the throttle stuck. I don't really remember what happened, but I would guess based on the 15-20 foot sliding marks on the ground that I was going around 25 mph(I don't know what that is in kph).
I agree that, after all the research I've done since then, the crank probably isn't bent, but I certainly want to make sure before I spend a bunch of money on it. Ya know?

[Billy Ricks]

A runout guage is a dial guage. It measures in very fine increments. It attaches to a set of rods that are held to anything metal, well almost anything metal, with a magnetic base. You set that up so the tip of the dial guage rest on the part being measured. Then you rotate the crank and watch the readings. They come in handy for checking wheels and other rotating parts and can also be used to find top dead center of the piston stroke. JC Whitney had the guages and base kits at good prices. I hot glue a pencil to the end of mine for extra reach and use it to find TDC.