BTW, when you retorque the head, how do you get an accurate reading on the wrench. It seems the nuts like to bind up. Should I apply a little anti-sieze before I start the torque down proceedure?
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A little weeping after switch to synth
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A little weeping after switch to synth
It was weeping even before the switch (to Mobil1 0w40) but now I see a few drops around the base gasket on #1 (after a 40 minute ride). Last night I retorqued the head studs (neglected to do that when I did the tappets) and that seemed to have made it better (if not completely fixed it). I think I may need to torque the right engine cover as well. Any other places you typically see some weeping?
BTW, when you retorque the head, how do you get an accurate reading on the wrench. It seems the nuts like to bind up. Should I apply a little anti-sieze before I start the torque down proceedure?Tags: None
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ericox
I was told by a reputable mechanic that the synthetics have such good detergants to clean the engine that in older bikes they clean out all the gunk, some of that gunk is keeping your bike from leaking. It makes sense, i wasnt leaking and switched to syn and was leaking by the end of the week, not bad but still leaking.
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Billy Ricks
Originally posted by ericoxI was told by a reputable mechanic that the synthetics have such good detergants to clean the engine that in older bikes they clean out all the gunk, some of that gunk is keeping your bike from leaking. It makes sense, i wasnt leaking and switched to syn and was leaking by the end of the week, not bad but still leaking.
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BTW, the retorque completely fixed this problem. I first loosened all the nuts and screws (completely), I then applied a touch of anti-sieze and then I torqued them back down. I did this while the motor was a little warm. I retorqued the next day when it was 100% cold (they each took another 1/8 of a turn). Wheeping is completely gone. Gaskets look totally dry now.Last edited by DimitriT; 04-10-2006, 01:54 PM.
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