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I just ordered some new rear brake pads for my 79 GS1000L my question is how to make them fit. I just bought the bike and the pads were pretty much gone, very close to the metal. The brake pads barely fit with no pad left, so how do you adjust the calipers to let in the new pads?
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79;
First check your manual. I'm sure this procedure is in there.
But if not, you'll need to relieve a little hydrolic back pressure.
You can open the bleed valve as you use a C-Clamp up against the piston.
This should force the piston back far enough to give you the clearance.
Sometimes, just using the clamp, without bleeding off fluid, moves the piston enough to get you thru the install. Check this out first.
Bleed the brakes after to make sure no air bubbles are inside.
And don't forget to clean off the disc when you're done.
Test ride, slow, to wear in the new pads. Make sure no fluids are on the disc or pad first. -
I hate sounding so dumb, but how do you bleed the brakes? and do i need to take off the tire to get the c clamp to fit? i am going to attempt this tomarrow so any info is greatly appreciated.Comment
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Tire doesn't need to come off. Just unfasten the caliper.
There are 2 bolts I believe. Remove one of the bolts and pivot the caliper.
See if you have clearance to work without removing the other bolt.
Be careful not to damage the brake line.
There's a bleed valve on top of the caliper. Use a small open wrench...forgot the exact size ( maybe 8 or 6 mm), when you open the valve slightly, fluid will shoot out if the system is under pressure.
be ready to catch the fluid in a bucket or rag.Then shut the valve.
If you open the valve and press the piston back then close the valve, it should give you the clearance you need for the new pads.
You should try pushin the piston back first without opening the bleed valve.
Sometimes this works OK too.Comment
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You shouldn't have to open the bleeder valve, when you apply pressure to the old pad the fluid should back up into the master cylinder. I drain some fluid off the master cylinder before I start to make there is room to hold the fluid forced back into it. But keep an eye while your forcing the pad back.Originally posted by Sebby
If you do open the bleeder valve, try to get a hose (automotive vacuum hoses are about the right size) and put over the nipple of the bleeder valve so you can then have the fluid drain into a can or something.
If any brake fluid gets on your paint get it off fast. Brake fluid eats paint.Comment
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Rear Brakes
If the calipers are in good shape, you may be able to press the piston back by hand.
On my 79 GS750L, the rear has a dual piston caliper. There is a piston behind BOTH pads. If this is the case, both pistons will need to be pushed in. If you need to use a c-clamp on this system, I think you will have to split the caliper. The down side of doing this is that you will HAVE to bleed the brakes after you re-assemble everything.
Some tips:
1. Don't let the caliper hang by its hose, or damage to the hose can result.
2. don't press the brake pedal when you have the caliper off and the pads out, or the pistons may pop out, and brake fluid may go everywhere.
3. If the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir is too high after you press the pads back in, you can remove some with a turkey baster.
To bleed the brakes:
1. look for the bolt on the top of the caliper that has a nipple in the middle of it.
2. put a hose on the nipple, and submerge the opposite end of the hose in a clear jar of brake fluid.
3. Make sure the master cylinder is full of brake fluid.
4. press down on the brake pedal, and open the bleeder 1/4 turn (approx) while holding the pedal down.
5. tighten the bleeder bolt and release the pedal.
6. Repeat steps 3 thru 5 until you don't see any bubbles coming out of the hose into the brake fluid in the jar.
7. Discard the used brake fluid.
Make sure you keep the hose submerged in the brake fluid. The first few pumps will expell air from the hose, and if you don't keep it full of fluid between pedal presses, you won't know if you are getting air out of the hose or out of the brake system.
If you have a dual piston caliper like my 79 GS750L, you will have two bleeder bolts. Bleed the one farthest from the master cylinder first (probably the inside/left one), and then repeat for the other.
As a matter of course, I bleed my brakes every time I do brake work. Brake fluid can absorb moisture, so it is good to get rid of the old and replace it with new to maintain braking efficiency, and to prevent corrosion in the brake system.
Two options exist to make this process easier: The first are "speed bleeders" They look like regular bleeder screws, but have check valve in them. Once you replace your standard bleeder screws, you can bleed the brakes by simply loosing the speed bleeder a quarter turn, and then pumping the pedal a few times. The check valve prevents air from being sucked back into the caliper when you release the pedal. I think they are about $15 each from Dennis Kirk (don't quote me on the price)
The other option is to get a Mighty Vac. This is a vacuum pump that you hook to the bleeder screw. Pump it up, and open the bleeder screw. Let it suck for a while, and then close the bleeder screw. You can get them at auto parts stores or J C Whitney for about $45. (again, don't quote me on the price). I've got one and it makes bleeding a breeze.
For all methods, don't let the master cylinder reservoir run dry, or you will have to start the bleeding process over again. Always use the type of brake fluid specified. Yours probably uses DOT 3 or DOT 4, but check your owner's manual or on the brake fluid reservoir cap to be sure. And only use new brake fluid from a sealed container. Stuff that you've had in the garage for a couple of years has probably absorbed moisture by now.
Sorry for the long post. Hope it helps. 8)Comment
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thanks for the great info everyone, i'll give a go tomarrow, thanks again.Comment
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It is not nesasary to remove the rear calaper to change the brakes on your bike.
the pads are held in by two pins that slide through the top of the calaper.
you first pop off the plastic cover
remove the two snap clips holding the pad retaining pins
use a small punch or neelde nose plires and pust the retaining pins back out of the caliper
remove the two retainer springs
pull the brake pads out of the caliper body
instalation is the reverse of these steps, but first:
remove the cap from the fluid reservoir
using a wooden dowl or wedge, work the pistons back into the caliper body (they should slowly slide back) watch the fluid reservoir and stop if the fluid gets to the top, and remove the excess fluid, dont allow it to spill out, it will eat the paint off the frame!
once you have the pistons in all the way, you can install the new pads.
you will need to make sure and reuse the thin metal shims from the old pads, they will probably be stuck to the back of the old pads.
make sure that when you put the shims on the new pads that you make sure that the diamond cut out in the shims point foward.
once you have the pads installed and the pins and retaining clips installed, you will need to slowly pump the brake pedal to push the pads against the rotor, you them make sure the brake fluid level is at the full level and put the cap back on.Comment
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your ideas were all right on, i was able to press the pistons back by hand and they are working great. is the process similar for the front brakes. after feeling the difference in the back brakes i can't wait to replace the front ones as well.Comment
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no ,the front calipers mount differantly.
remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the fork leg, and remove caliper
remove the screw securing the pad lock plate.
press out and remove the fixed pad (inside pad)
pry up and remove the sliding pad (piston side)
remove the brake reservoir cap and put a rag over it to catch any spilled fluid
slowly pess the piston in as far as it will go
put a light film of caliper axle grease to the back of the sliding pad (suzuki PN#99000-25100)
you then put copper colored pad grease on the edges of the sliding pad suzuki PN#99000-25110) WARNING, DO NOT GET ANY OF THE GREASE ON THE FRICTION MATERIAL
install the sliding pad into the caliper body, make sure the pad snaps into the locating tab in the caliper
install the fixed pad and secure it with the pad lock plate
reinstall the caliper and repeat for other side
once both sets of pads have been replaced , you will slowly pump the brake lever to make the pads expand out to the disc, make sure to watch the fluid level, DO NOT LET THE RESERVOIR RUN OUT.
once you have a firm lever, top up the fluid level and put the cap back on and enjoy.
one word of warning, take it easy on the brakes for about a hundred miles to alow them to bed in and heat cure.Comment
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