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Do I have charging system problems????

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    Do I have charging system problems????

    I've just finished rebuild of my GS 550L..(piston rings, cam chain, new coils...etc)

    Last october(at the end of riding season) I've had blown stator and regulator ...so I've rewinded stator in local shop..and got the new regulator from Electrex..
    Now after rebuild I have uneven readings from battery terminals ...
    it's in the range of 13V - 14.7V ..in range of 1000-5000rpm..
    but the readings are not constant ...it goes up and down no matter the RPM some times on 4000rpms it's only 13.3V or at idle is 14.2V...
    Stator test shows OK (like in stator pages here 80V AC betwen the wires at 5000rpm).. regulator tests looks OK...

    Is it possible to get unsteady readings because uneven windings done on stator in local shop....???
    And it seems I also have voltage drops after long rides with fully warmed engine...???? Hot oil bad for stator maybe..????

    #2
    My charging voltage would go DOWN at higher revs, as I think you are describing. This was wrong! I cut/soldered or cleaned all the RR connections (and cut out a few inches of crystalized, hardened wire), and ran a separate ground wire from the battery to the body of the RR. Problem solved. If what you are describing is a rapid fluctuation of voltage while at a steady rpm, I have no answer for you.

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      #3
      It really sounds like you have a bad wire or connection somewhere.

      There's nothing for it other than pull up a stool, crack open a refreshing soda pop (you'll need your wits for this, so no adult beverages), and proceed to unplug, clean and replug every connector on the bike. Use an anti-corrosionconnection grease. Inspect every inch of wiring. Scrutinize the front and back of the fuse box carefully -- oxidized connections here are common. Check every bulb socket carefully. Use a continuity tester when you can't see all sides of a connector.

      Also, solder the stator connectors and protect the connections with heat shrink tubing.

      You'll find it!
      1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
      2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
      2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
      Eat more venison.

      Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

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        #4
        Brian, I don't know if you are following my other thread- carbon fouling problem- but would you open up the harness for this? If you haven't been following that thread, I had some fried connectors on my r/r. and am losing a little voltage between the battery, headlight and coils. About 1.2 volts. Would you open the entire harness to check for brittle and burnt wire?

        Sorry, I hi-jacked.
        Currently bikeless
        '81 GS 1100EX - "Peace, by superior fire power."
        '06 FZ1000 - "What we are dealing with here, is a COMPLETE lack of respect for the law."

        I ride, therefore I am.... constantly buying new tires.

        "Tell me what kind of an accident you are going to have, and I will tell you which helmet to wear." - Harry Hurt

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          #5
          Originally posted by Jethro
          Would you open the entire harness to check for brittle and burnt wire?
          Al here. My very limited experience is this: All my damaged wire was immediately adjacent to the poor connections that had caused my problems. Whether this is a universal truth I wouldn't know.

          I think a voltage drop on the way to the end points is common. At the best of times, bike makers usually scrimp on wire gauge (weight saving?), and clean bullet connectors can only flow so much juice. That's why, even on new bikes, running heavier gauge wire directly from the battery to feed relays is a common fix for dim headlamps.

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