1983 GS450A Blowing Main Fuse

[HeavyDutyDude]

I bought this bike last summer for $300 and it ran great for about a month. It started blowing the main fuse right after i left the start button go. I don't know a lot about bike's but i am trying to learn. I am thinking it may be the regulator?? Has anyone else had this problem? I have enought money to get a regulator but i don't want to buy it if its not broke and i'm not really sure whats wrong.

[Billy Ricks]

I bought this bike last summer for $300 and it ran great for about a month. It started blowing the main fuse right after i left the start button go. I don't know a lot about bike's but i am trying to learn. I am thinking it may be the regulator?? Has anyone else had this problem? I have enought money to get a regulator but i don't want to buy it if its not broke and i'm not really sure whats wrong.

If you don't have a short somewhere else then it sounds more like stator to me. Check over every connection and as much of the wiring as you can find. I can post the testing procedures for the stator and R/R for my bike if you want and you can probably apply them to yours.

[HeavyDutyDude]

I've checked the wiring over and over again and haven't found anything. If you could post how you tested the stator and R/R that would be great because i am trying to do it now but i really don't know how.

[Billy Ricks]

You can check you regulator/rectifier by following the Suzuki procedure below.

With the r/r removed from the bike, fins pointing up and terminals facing you, the terminals from left to right will be A, B, C, D, and E.
Negative probe on A and positive on B you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on C you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on D you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on E you should get 50-70 ohms.

Then switch the negative probe to terminal B and place the positive probe on A, C, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to C and positive to A, B, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to D and positive to A, B, then C, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to E, positive to A, B, C, and D should give no reading.

The numbers have to be within range. It doesn't take much of an out of range reading to lead to the wrong output.


Stator Test

The testing procedure for my 700, should be about the same, involves disconnecting the three stator wires and running the bike at 5,000 rpm. You then place the probe of a multi-tester in each of the three wires. + probe in one terminal and - probe in another. Keep the + probe on the same wire and check the other two with the - probe. Then move the + probe to the next wire and check the other two with the - probe. Again + on the remaining wire. Check each of the wires against the other two this way. I'm not sure what voltage you should look for on an 1100, my 700 calls for 80 volts AC. You should get consistent readings on each attempt. These are the three yellow wires under the gas tank.You want to test the ends of the wires coming out of the starter cover under the carbs.

You can do a continuity check using the same procedure. With the motor off and the tester set to check for continuity check each wire against the other two. You should get a tone if the stator is okay as far as any breaks. You can test for shorts by testing each with one probe on the wire and the other on the frame. If you get a tone or meter reaction you have a short.

[rhscanada]

It's the stator I recon

Hi, I had the same problem last week. Bike started fine, then after about 10 to 30 seconds the main fuse would blow.

I found that the stator was grounding. Easy to check. Just test the 3 wires from the stator to make sure that they are not grounding.

Fortunately I had a spare engine and was able to fix the problem in about 10 minutes.

Good Luck.