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Still overcharging!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter crc1214
  • Start date Start date
Yes, it helps immensely, I greatly appreciate it! .... but here's the reason i ask all this........

The popular SH-232 Honda r/r swap requires that the green "sensor" wire be hooked up to the + v wire leading to the taillight (I was originally going to splice it to the + wire that the fuel sending unit plugs into).

Well my + wire to the tail light (and to the + wire that plugs in the fuel sending unit) only has 8V running through it, so wouldn't it trick my R/R into overcharging the battery?
 
Rustybronco, are you available to take some readings on your bike?

This would sure help ease my mind.....

I just want to see what you get from - terminal of battery to + wire of tail light (probably brown).
 
its hooked up to my tail light.
orange i believe. grab a switched wire (12v with key on) and hook it up.
yes i will measure if you like...
 
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crc1214 said:
...The popular SH-232 Honda r/r swap requires that the green "sensor" wire be hooked up to the + v wire leading to the taillight (I was originally going to splice it to the + wire that the fuel sending unit plugs into)....

You are doing the wiring incorrectly. The Honda Shindengen R/R's with 6 wires are wired like this:

The 3 yellow wires go to the stator wires.
The red wire goes to the always hot battery connection.
The black (or brown) wire is the sense wire and goes to a circuit like the tail light that is on only when the ignitions switch is turned on.
The green wire is the ground wire, and should be connected to a good ground or the negative battery terminal

This might explain your overcharging.:)
 
rustybronco said:
Ok, you have measured the voltage that is normally seen by the sending unit,
your volt meter has completed the circuit and has allowed current to flow from the battery through the gauge and wires (without the sending unit) and back to the battery. if you connect the sender up and unplug the gauge and put your volt meter across the two wires to the gauge you will see where the other 4+ volts are. each item in a circuit has a resistance (wire, gauge, sender, connection(s) and battery) and a corresponding voltage drop.
SORRY my apologies to all that read my response with the fuel sender disconnected you should read at or near battery voltage there is very little current flow thrrough a volt meter. IF all connections are good!

i beat my self riding home because i couldn't correct it.

now i must take a little test.

poster is a dummy 1. yes 2.yes
poster should think 1. yes 2.yes

ok it looks like i failed.

crc1214 let me re-read to see what kind of bike and i'll THINK and post again.
(i'm home now) and in the future i will confine my answers to where do i check my oil... (poster goes and kicks his self)
 
Boondocks said:
You are doing the wiring incorrectly. The Honda Shindengen R/R's with 6 wires are wired like this:

The 3 yellow wires go to the stator wires.
The red wire goes to the always hot battery connection.
The black (or brown) wire is the sense wire and goes to a circuit like the tail light that is on only when the ignitions switch is turned on.
The green wire is the ground wire, and should be connected to a good ground or the negative battery terminal

This might explain your overcharging.:)

This is absolutely correct, green is ground or negative. Yes it's alright to hook the sense wire to the white/orange, that is the main wire controlled by the ignition switch and also goes to the coils, the tail light wire will also work as well. if you wire the red directly to the battery make sure you put a fuse on that wire. You can also thank Boondocks for that one.
 
Agreed re the wiring arrangements.

Sandy...I do not see the value of putting a fuse on the red wire as this wire carries power TO the battery, and maintains its charge via the R/R. There is no load on it, so there is no live circuit to protect.

Enlighten me, please.
 
argonsagas said:
Agreed re the wiring arrangements.

Sandy...I do not see the value of putting a fuse on the red wire as this wire carries power TO the battery, and maintains its charge via the R/R. There is no load on it, so there is no live circuit to protect.

Enlighten me, please.

Actually that requirement is more for the Honda R/R with the extra red wire. If you run one red to the battery and the other to the wiring harness you have effectively bypassed the main fuse. With the single red wire it is not as critical although I suppose you could have the wire rub through somewhere and cause a problem.
 
Case 1: Using my bike as a model, the hot wire from the R/R is normally fused in the factory wiring scheme. It is connected to the always hot solenoid terminal through the main 15 amp fuse. If the R/R or the wiring from it were to short out, it will blow the fuse before destroying the battery or anything else. Connecting the hot lead directly to the battery removes this protection.

Case 2: Some Honda R/R's have two red leads, and advice has been given to connect one lead to the normal connection on the wiring harness and the other read lead directly to the battery. Since the two red wires are on the same circuit and behave as one wire, this has an unintended result.The problem with this configuration is that the direct connection to the battery effectively bypasses the main fuse, leaving the bike with a direct unfused connection to the battery without the protection of a main fuse. With a connection like this, the main fuse can be removed from the fuse block and the bike will operate without it, without any main fuse protection.
 
what bothers me is the 8v to the tail light.

going to dinner i'll read the posts later crc1214.
there may be multiple problems, r/r wired wrong, connections ect.
 
Boondocks et al., you are indeed correct regarding the wiring, and I do have it wired correctly. I just now re-read my post and realized I put "green" wire and really meant the "black" wire. I had a brain fart.

Indeed, I do have the GREEN wire to the - terminal of the battery and it's the BLACK wire that I couldn't decide where to hook up.

Now for the latest..... when I came home I decided to tap the black wire to the orange/red wire coming from the fusebox. It sees battery V minus 0.2V - the strongest V reading on the bike, reading taken from across the - terminal of battery and first wire junction in the orange/red wire's path. This wire receives voltage only when the ignition switch is on.

And the R/R functions properly.

And the lights function properly...... same as before. But what I can't get over is the weird voltages I am seeing at the fuel gauge sender wires and rear tail light wires. How I'm seeing only 8V at these places, while the component functions just fine and dandy.

Rustybronco..... I await your response on this one, it sounds as if you have something up your sleeve. We will catch this rat, severely mame and injur it, become best freinds with it after it's full recovery, then attend it's marriage, where we will discuss these events and others will it's parents, aunts, uncles, cousins and anatomically incorrect step-brother.
 
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crc1214, with the key on (engine not running) head light and tail light on, voltage measured across negative and positive at the battery 11.55v. voltage measured from battery negative post to orange wire 9.97v .
I won't get to measure the voltage across each connection until saturday to see if there are any bad connections that could be causing the 1.5v drop, which there probably is (it should not be more than .1-.2v if i were to guess) if the wire size of the bike is sized correctly and all connections are clean and tight there should be very little voltage drop from the battery to the tail light.
I'll keep you posted (tomorrow is my birthday) in the mean time check your connections (especially the grounds), clean them and see if the voltage rises.

nothing up my sleeve sorry. but there is a reason for the low voltage and we will find it!
 
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