Oil Leak Tach Cable 81 GS850G

[SteveR]

I have done tons of work on my bike and thought the oil leak where the tach cable connects to the engine would be easy. I guess I do not understand how it comes apart... or something is stuck.
Any thoughts on this one would be appreciated.

[ccratin]

Just did mine on the 1100. Once you remove the bolt that holds the assembly in, it takes considerable force to pull the assembly out of the motor. It will come out though, just keep trying. I think I ended up using my largest channel locks with a rag to keep from damaging the housing too much. I polished it before putting it back on. No leaks now.

[Redman]

I had same problem on my 80 GS850G (pics on webpage). It takes some wiggling and pulling (is not threaded) to remove that assembly.
Also- I Would go to dealer and ask for the o-ring, and they would get me one. And it still leaked. Then I go my own microfische, ah-haa, there are two orings in there. And of course these days there are the online parts lookups.

Here: our fellow GSR Brian Wringer has written a descriptioon of changing those o-rings.

http://bwringer.com/gs/

Welcome to GSR. I suggest you keep an eye out on the Meeting place forum, look for the fall Texas Hill Country Ride. I went in spring last year.

http://groups.msn.com/SuzukiGSGarage/2005springtexashillcountry.msnw

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[snowbeard]

so what if I wasn't confident that my tach even works and I wanted to just plug the hole... would it blow up without the drive gear? just a thought as this ol 850 is going to be more of a ratbike/chopper/bobber thingy than a respectable GS...

at least for now.

[bwringer]

so what if I wasn't confident that my tach even works and I wanted to just plug the hole... would it blow up without the drive gear? just a thought as this ol 850 is going to be more of a ratbike/chopper/bobber thingy than a respectable GS...

at least for now.

It's automatically respectable if it has survived this long without being picked apart and auctioned off!

The hole is not threaded, so you'll need to figure out how to plug it, but as long as you remove the drive gear, it won't hurt anything to run without a tach. At least as long as you don't blow through redline on a regular basis.

[snowbeard]

seeing as how I wouldn't know redline from a hole in the ground right now anyways, I should think I won't do it often... ';-)

[SqDancerLynn1]

A very small freeze plug

[semerm]

easy

I just did it within a week or so on mu 1981 gs850gl. Someone posted this on the site, it helped me install it. However, I ended up breaking the screw that holds the clip in (look at the pic). Be careful when taking out and putting in the screw. Here is the link- http://bwringer.com/gs/tachcableseals.html (from bwringer). IT IS VERY HELPFUL

[snowbeard]

what is a freeze plug? something you freeze to make it small enough to fit and when it warms up it seals?? wild guess here...

[semerm]

freeze plug

I do not know for sure if a motorcycle freeze plug is the same as a car's.

I was told many years ago that a car freeze plug is a piece of metal that allows the engine block to expand and contract (from below zero contractions to operating temp expansion). When you think about it, a motor is a big piece of metal that has many holes and things attached to it. That big piece of metal will expand and contract when it is cooled down and heated up. Without the freeze plugs the block could crack.
I am hopefully repeating correct information, again second hand info from many memory many years ago.
Others- is this correct?

[ruddy]

A freeze plug looks like a metal cap and is seated into holes in the outer water jacket of an engine. If the coolant freezes, the caps will pop out allowing the water to expand without cracking the block. They are a very tight press fit.

[shortlid]

Mine also, bolt snaped

I had same problem on my 80 GS850G (pics on webpage). It takes some wiggling and pulling (is not threaded) to remove that assembly.
Also- I Would go to dealer and ask for the o-ring, and they would get me one. And it still leaked. Then I go my own microfische, ah-haa, there are two orings in there. And of course these days there are the online parts lookups.

Here: our fellow GSR Brian Wringer has written a descriptioon of changing those o-rings.

http://bwringer.com/gs/

I tried to replace the O-rings in my tach drive but while I was geting it out the small screw that goes into the head that holds the tach drive in snaped off at the head!! Now it is leaking worse than before. How can I get it back together and stop the leaking! I know I have to tap out the old screw and put a new one it. But how much FORCE does it take to get the Tach drive out?
bwinger, is there any other way too secure the tach drive in the head and abandon the tab and small screw junk?

[shortlid]

Block off?

Is there such thing as a block off plate for the tach drive?

[semerm]

I had the same problem and I had a spot of weld put on the end and it is fine and does not leak. If I have to take it off ever, I will chisel the weld off and go from there and then try to extract the broken (now stud). I did not want to do this but it was in there too good. I new I would have to probably extract it out now or later, I opted for later. Wise move? I'm not sure but it hasn't leaked since I changed it. It broke on me when I went to put the bolt back in.

[kalessin]

The amount of force? Something like unscrewing a pretty tightly sealed peanut butter jar lid. Maybe a little more. The drive housing will pop out, and some oil may leak out.

The only block-off plate I can think of would be home-made. And it would still want to be screwed to the engine head. Heh, or the tach cable drive without a cable....