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Check that compression 1st! Like was said previously, you only need those three things to make a motor run. Let me tell you my story. My Toyota pickup died when my sister drove it. I checked the spark, bought a computer for the FI, and messed some perfectly good sensors, only to check compression last! DUH. Found 0 psi on 2 cyls. The timing chain jumped and in valves got bent because it is a "interference" engine. Moral. Check everything first, replace parts later.
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That makes sense. Even if you're not getting gas into the cylinder (I was going to ask if the plug was wet or dry after you tried to run it) lack of compression could be responsible.Comment
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If your carbs are out of sync enough, this can happen. Don't know if anyone mentioned it yet.Comment
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How do I check if the carbs are in sync? I know the butterfly valves are both seated and moving together in sync but I don't know if that's the same thing or not! Do I need a compression tester to check compression or is thier a different way to check without having to go buy a tester? My plugs weren't wet when I changed them and I rechecked them and they are still dry and in good condition.
--JoeComment
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Compression Testing - http://www.dansmc.com/compression_test.htm
Carb Sync - http://www.dansmc.com/balancecarbs.htm
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Well if they are dry -soon after you try to run it- that just confirms that you're not getting gas in one cylinder. Without spark it should be hanging around on your spark plug for a while. Go check those above mentioned items - I don't think anyone DID mention carb syncing either, and it's likely they need it after your tear down.Comment
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Alrighty...Checked compression and found that my cold cylinder is 115 psi and my hot cylinder 125 psi. I checked and thier were no seal leaks so the measurements are accurate. Haven't synced carbs yet because I don't have the tool. Do I need to get the top end rebuilt?? Is that a significant difference?
--JoeComment
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Well that certainly sounds like workable compression (you do have the manual to check, I hope) So it looks like the carb. Either you missed something, got a float height out of whack, clogged a jet, too far out of sync, something. I'm pretty sure your top end is okay.Comment
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You can bench sync the carbs as a starting position. I'd wager the one slide is significantly lower than the others.Comment
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How do you do a bench sync???
--JoeComment
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nevermind I found a thread that told me how! I will got on it tomorrow!
--JoeComment
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A Dr. Dan Streetmentioner scholar, I see.Originally posted by jrciamacco
sorry, I can't resist obscure HHGTTG references. Good luck with the bench sync.Comment
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Well, I did the bench sync and it was also unsuccessful. Also, the cooling fins on the #1 cylinder are cold while the #2 fins are hot. I checked the heat of the actual exaust at High RPM's and #2 almost burnt my hand and #1was just semi-warm air. Probably still a fuel delivery problem I would imagine. So...I will again rip apart the carb and see if somethings not still gummed up or clogged. Does anyone have anthing else they can think of!?
We have eliminated...
1. Electrical (by switching coils withoout the problem switching)
2. Valves/rings (Compression #1=115psi #2=125psi)
And...I thought I cleaned the carbs the first time, but I suppose not good enough.......Its the only thing left I can think of!!!!!!!!!!!
--JoeComment
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Ok...heres what I found. In my diaphram assembly the lock ring was loose and it wasn't letting my jet needle operate correctly so i would assume I was getting gas flow but not very good. So I tried to fix the problem but it still seems like it is binding up a little bit. But I tried it anyway and I got the same thing as before...but I am not sure that I can get it to move freely without some sort of modification to the plastic piece that sits on top of the needle jet. Its like I need to sand the edges a little to get it to move freely. I will try it in the morning and see what happens...I haven't gotten to the cleaning yet!
--JoeComment
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