79 suzuki gs 1000 carb problems

[ninabl]

i had 2 floats that were out of adjustment and got that fixed
i have to use a spray of starting fluid to get the bike started even when warmed up there is a poping sound coming from the exhaust wile running
it is like it is strugeling and reves real slow if you let it idle for a second and open it up real fast it just dies out
the idle is real random and sounds like it is going to die sometimes trhen idles up where it is suppose to for a few min
a diagram on how to adjust the carbs would be helpful
and was also considering taking to a shop so curious to know how much it should run to have it adjusted for me
trying to get it running right for the summer
but like i say it was in real bed shape when i got it
any help would be great
nick

[Mike McNaney]

Spark plug wires on the right plugs?
Seems to me almost every repair is $300 unless something Blew up. Pro carb rebuild and set up is $300-400 around here (4 carbs)

[Billy Ricks]

This might help you.
http://www.thegsresources.com/files/vm_carb_rebuild.pdf

[mark]

You CAN rebuild them yourself and learn to adjust them, synchronize them, set your pilot screws, air screws etc. Do it right with all the new o-rings etc. That's the great thing about these bikes, for the most part you can work on them yourself. Also of course, you should make sure your manifold boot o-rings are good. Valves need to be adjusted properly etc., synchronized......

Does your bike have a stock exhaust? airbox modifications?

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I've made a lot of posts about the VM carbs that may help you further if you search.
Some of your problems are probably carb related but don't overlook the electrical system either. I always say to check all the basics before tuning.
This includes checking compression, valve clearances, clean filter(s), clean electrical connections throughout, good spark/battery, ignition timing/point dwell set, NGK B8ES plugs/correctly gapped, clean carbs with fresh inner o-rings, bench synch the slides (followed by a vacuum tool synch later), floats set to .94/95" in your case, jet sizes confirmed, all parts checked for correct installation order by checking a diagram, correct vent lines and vacuum line connections, fresh manifold o-rings and check the manifolds too for being in supple condition.
Then set the side air screws about 1 3/4 turns out and then adjust them using the highest rpm method. Hopefully, if the bike ran well before, you kept a record of where the pilot fuel screws (underneath) were set. If not, a stock bike would have them about 1 full turn out from LIGHTLY seated. Fine tuning will be necessary for these screws.
If the bike starts up, set the idle to 1,000 rpm's and set those side air screws and follow that with the vacuum tool synch.
If the bike has intake/exhaust mods, let us know what the current jetting is set at. Including main jet, jet needle e-clip position, pilot jet, and pilot fuel/side air screw settings.
If you cut corners/don't check on any of this stuff, you can have problems.