R/R compatibility from 850GL to 1100GL

[thsorens]

I have a bad R/R on my 1982 1100GL. My white/red wire completely coroded off the R/R and the red wire's insulation is coroded off and about to break. I found it when doing the ohm meter tests found in the stator papers section. Luckily my Stator tests OK. Anyway, I have an 850GL parts bike that looks like it has a new R/R. It has the same number and colors of wires, and appears exactly the same physically as my 1100, but when I look up the R/R on Bike Bandit for both bikes, they come up with different part numbers. There is a guy on Ebay selling R/R's for Suzuki's. He lists 2 different styles which look completely different, and claims that each one fits like 30 different models.
Will the '82 850GL R/R work on my '82 1100GL???
Thanks guys!

[kalessin]

It should work, though any Suzuki OEM replacement will have the same design problem as mentioned in the Stator Papers. Install that puppy and see if it tests out okay!

The heat sinks appear to be different sizes in the parts diagrams between the 850gl and 1100gl models. However, the system is pretty much the same between the bikes. The important thing to do if you install the one from the parts bike is to test test test, and make sure the replacement r/r is doing okay.

[thsorens]

Understood. Installing it tonight. I will do the tests on it before I install it, but it does look like its been replaced before. Do I have to pull the battery tray to get that out? Looks like it would be pretty hard to get the philips head screws out with it in the bike. Especialy if they are rusted at all.
Tom

[kalessin]

The battery tray has to come out. It's really easy:
remove toolkit, remove battery, unclip the things on the right hand side of the battery tray (just pull them up steadily), unclip the battery overflow tube from the front end of the tray,
unscrew the screws that hold the bracket onto the left hand side of the battery which has the fusebox, solenoid and connectors on it, undo the two bolts at the back end of the battery tray, and lift it clear. I removed the tank on my 1100GL to do this, but you may not have to do even that.

I left the wire disconnecting/reconnecting details as an exercise for the reader. Take notes or photos if needed!

[thsorens]

Got it changed. The old one was melted bad where the wires go into it! One wire was busted off, and one was melted back. Definately a bad R/R! The new one (used one) passed the resistance test with my multimeter, as does the stator, but I only get about 13.3 volts at the battery with the bike just off of idle. At 2500 or higher, the charge actually goes down a bit, but always stays above 13. This is a brand new battery. Am I OK? I'm going to do the voltage drop tests tomorow. i could have a bad ground connection at the rectifier I guess. I know this new RR is going to fix my fuse blowing problem and my slow drain problem, but I'm not sure if it is charging enough? What dya think????
Thanks
Tom

[kalessin]

Hm. Grounding well and cleaning up the connectors can't hurt!

Testing at 3000-4000rpm is where you should see charging level voltage.