Mechanic Referral Wanted: New Jersey, Bergen County

[khansmith]

Hello:
I searched the forum for references for good mechanics in New Jersey without any success. I moved to the New Jersey area last October and I need to get my "spring tune up" for my bike among other work items.

1--YEAR AND MODEL: 1982 GS1100E
2--MILES ON ENGINE: 25,000 +

Thank you in advance for your help/referrals.

Regards,
Khan

[kalessin]

Welcome to the GSResources!

One of the reasons why this tech forum is so busy is we're learning how to fix our own because shops usually hate to work on bikes as aged as ours. What repairs does your bike need done to it?

We're willing to help you with whatever's wrong with your bike, down to how to change the oil, and you can save a *lot* of money by not paying for a mechanic's time. A number of us don't have garages or our own driveways to work in, but we fix our bikes anyway.

If you really need a mechanic, look for a shop that has a lot of used 1980's bikes out front for sale, because the wrenches there have to at least get them running for sale (and for the 30-day warranty repairs).

[khansmith]

Thank you for the warm welcome Joel. I appreciate you answering my plea for assistance.

There is a long list of items that I need to have performed on the bike to get it safe for spring road trips ranging from easy to relatively comlex. Here is my list:

Tune Up:
- Plugs and wires
- Oil change and filters
- Valve adjustments
- Lube chain

Fuel System:
- Carb syncronization
- Carb jetting (new 4 into 1 system installed)

Brake System:
- Need new set of front brake rotors (seem warped but can't find them ANYWHERE)
- New brake pads (front/rear)
- Brake fluids replaced

Engine Block:
- Front seal mid block is leaking oil around stud/fastener (believe requires engine removal)

I am worried about time due to learning curve (not much experience with bikes) as I am about to start a major auto project in the next 3 weeks. However, I would like to get your thoughts on the list above regarding how much time you think I would have to spend doing the above work on my own.

Thank you for your time and effort.

Khan

[kalessin]

Thank you for the warm welcome Joel. I appreciate you answering my plea for assistance.

There is a long list of items that I need to have performed on the bike to get it safe for spring road trips ranging from easy to relatively comlex. Here is my list:

I find GS bike engines as simple as old car engines to work on.

Looking section by section:

Tune Up:
- Plugs and wires
- Oil change and filters
- Valve adjustments
- Lube chain

Plugs are easy, get a set of NGK in the same type that's in the bike, gap them, swap them and you're done in ten minutes.

Wires are glued into the coils if you still have the originals; are the wires visibly in bad condition? Coil replacement takes about 20 minutes including taking off the gas tank. I'd inspect the coils by inspecting how the spark looks in your plugs, take a plug out, let it rest on the engine block, and make sure it sparks. If you see a nice blue sparking, then your coils should be okay.

Oil change takes about 1/2 hour with warm oil. Up on centerstand, unscrew the drain bolt, drain oil, take the filter cover off the front of the engine and drain the oil there, replace filter, oil up the new o-ring, button it up, fill engine with oil.

Lube chain just means buying chain lube and spraying it on...

Fuel System:
- Carb syncronization
- Carb jetting (new 4 into 1 system installed)

Is this the Vance and Hines system, or another? Rejetting takes lots of time to get right. If it says in the instructions that rejetting shouldn't be needed, you might want to avoid the headache...

Carb synch takes a synch tool and took me about two hours, not including taking off the gas tank. But I'm very slow.

I haven't had to service my carbs, but you can read all about it in many threads here in the tech forum.

Brake System:
- Need new set of front brake rotors (seem warped but can't find them ANYWHERE)

Ouch. Can you feel the brakes vibrating through the handlebars when slowing down?

Can you measure the lateral ruout? Up on centerstand, weigh down the back or prop up the front, secure the bars pointing straight ahead, rotate the wheel with a runout gauge pressed against it, or a pencil tip held in some kind of vise, and observe the gap. If the brakes aren't really warped, you'll know and save the big hassle...

Oh, and what's the condition of the brake pads, if you pull one of the front calipers and inspect, do you see the wear-indicator notch still there?

- New brake pads (front/rear)

- Brake fluids replaced

Easy job, though it'll take a few hours. Order new pads (regular EBC ones), remove each caliper, force the old pads apart, remove old pads (it's good to have a manual for this, and use parts diagrams from places like http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm), put in the new pads, bolt the calipers back on.

Then bleed the brakes. I use a clean glass peanut-butter jar with a few inches of brake fluid in the bottom, and some clear plastic tubing down from the bleed nipple, resting in the fluid in the jar so air doesn't get back into the system. Open up the top of the reservoir, squeeze brake, pour fluid in the top, don't expose the bottom of the reservoir (!), repeat until the fluid runs clear and there's no bubbles, then do the other side, button it up and test. Then do the rear brake.

Engine Block:
- Front seal mid block is leaking oil around stud/fastener (believe requires engine removal)

I'm not sure which exact location you mean here. I have had a small leak at the side of the head gasket which was cured by loosening and retorquing the head bolts. I just replaced the tachometer drive gear and seals in the head, its above the #2 exhaust port on my engine, it was leaking onto the exhaust pipes which made smoke and smelled bad.

I am worried about time due to learning curve (not much experience with bikes) as I am about to start a major auto project in the next 3 weeks. However, I would like to get your thoughts on the list above regarding how much time you think I would have to spend doing the above work on my own.

Thank you for your time and effort.

I find GS bikes easier to work on than cars... without much bodywork in the way, many things are very accessible, and Suzuki had plenty of room for everything, unlike modern cars.

You're welcome!

Joel

[khansmith]

Thanks again for your help. Definitly some things I can knock out on my own pretty quick. You had some questions and I have some questions for you below. If you have time, I would be very grateful for further feedback.

Oil change takes about 1/2 hour with warm oil. Up on centerstand, unscrew the drain bolt, drain oil, take the filter cover off the front of the engine and drain the oil there, replace filter, oil up the new o-ring, button it up, fill engine with oil.

My bike has the center stand removed. Will jack stands at four corners work?

Is this the Vance and Hines system, or another? Rejetting takes lots of time to get right. If it says in the instructions that rejetting shouldn't be needed, you might want to avoid the headache...

I have a MAC 4-1 system. It indicates that I "may" need rejetting. I have some noise in my gearbox and some backfireing with downshifting now which leads me to believe (according to my manual) that I have some carb syncro and jetting issues.

Carb synch takes a synch tool and took me about two hours, not including taking off the gas tank. But I'm very slow.

I have been unable to locate a carb synch tool. I purchase most of my parts off of Dennis Kirk. Can you suggest an alternative place to get this tool?

Ouch. Can you feel the brakes vibrating through the handlebars when slowing down?

Not at high speeds. At speeds lower than 10mph the bike lurches at the RPM of the front wheel. The lurch isn 't massive but I can definitly feel it.

Can you measure the lateral ruout? Up on centerstand, weigh down the back or prop up the front, secure the bars pointing straight ahead, rotate the wheel with a runout gauge pressed against it, or a pencil tip held in some kind of vise, and observe the gap. If the brakes aren't really warped, you'll know and save the big hassle...

Oh, and what's the condition of the brake pads, if you pull one of the front calipers and inspect, do you see the wear-indicator notch still there?

I haven't tested runout (didn't even know there was such a thing as a run out tool). Pencil should be easy enough per your suggestion. Just need to get a center stand replacement.

I have not inspected the brake pad yet. I just haven't replaced them since I bought the bike about 2 years ago and figured I should take a look.

I'm not sure which exact location you mean here. I have had a small leak at the side of the head gasket which was cured by loosening and retorquing the head bolts. I just replaced the tachometer drive gear and seals in the head, its above the #2 exhaust port on my engine, it was leaking onto the exhaust pipes which made smoke and smelled bad.

The leak is the seal above the exhaust ports and below the heads.

Thanks again. I really appreciate it.

[NICK!]

Your going to have to tackle this yourself. All the Suzuki dealers in north Jersey are either to be avoided and/or will not accept a motorcycle this age for service. Sounds like your getting excellent advice already. Just go slow so as not to cause yourself any problems and keep posting your questions here on this forum, I am impressed with the amount of knowledge and experience present on this board.

[kalessin]

My bike has the center stand removed. Will jack stands at four corners work?

I think the bases of the jack stands would interfere with each other.

Lacking the center stand (which was probably removed to put the MAC exhaust on) makes some things more difficult. If your funds permit the purchase of a swingarm stand, then not having the center stand is no problem (for rear-wheel repairs and things that require the bike be straight up). A front stand (that support from under the steering stem with a fitting meant for the bike) would be a useful luxury.

Swingarm stand:

http://www.oldbikebarn.com/part.php?id=12150&subcategory=Stands&bike=&DisplayPerPage=20

Front head stand (i'd check to make sure it's compatible):

http://www.kneedraggers.com/details/Woodcraft_Solo_Operation_Front_Stand_w_Pin--53-WOOD2.html

If you have a garage, you might be able to rig something, but be very careful! Another GSResources user was doing work an rigged a heavy-duty ratcheting loading strap from a heavy-duty stepladder tall enough to fit over the bike. Remember that your bike weighs around 600lbs...

If you think about it, all the money you're saving on mechanic time (at what, $75-85 an hour?) you can now plow into tools... but at least the tools are reuseable...

I have a MAC 4-1 system. It indicates that I "may" need rejetting. I have some noise in my gearbox and some backfireing with downshifting now which leads me to believe (according to my manual) that I have some carb syncro and jetting issues.

I have been unable to locate a carb synch tool. I purchase most of my parts off of Dennis Kirk. Can you suggest an alternative place to get this tool?

At http://www.bikebandit.com for $50:

http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/product~pf_id~3279982~dept_id~2118505.asp

These are often referred to as "mercury carb sticks". It's best if you can borrow them from a local motorcycle-fixin' friend, because they only get used rarely. Follow the instructions carefully.

Dennis Kirk charges $62 for the same thing, it's in their tool section. I've generally found DK's prices to be higher for almost everything. A lot of us use:

http://www.bikebandit.com

http://www.ronayers.com

http://www.oldbikebarn.com

Not at high speeds. At speeds lower than 10mph the bike lurches at the RPM of the front wheel. The lurch isn 't massive but I can definitly feel it.

Hmmm. I'd test the runout on both the brake discs and the wheel itself. Use a section of wooden dowel when you don't want to leave marks.

I haven't tested runout (didn't even know there was such a thing as a run out tool). Pencil should be easy enough per your suggestion. Just need to get a center stand replacement.

A runout gauge (real name: dial indicator gauge) is a little too mechanic-oriented for Pep Boys and Autozone.

An inexpensive one will do, 1" range, graduated in thousandths. Here's one at the top of this page for $16 (you don't need to go expensive):

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH?SITYPE=1&SITEXT=dial+indicators&KNC-T7L391316886

I have not inspected the brake pad yet. I just haven't replaced them since I bought the bike about 2 years ago and figured I should take a look.

Definitely. There should be a notch or groove in the face of each pad, when it's gone, it's time to replace.

The leak is the seal above the exhaust ports and below the heads.

I tend to use http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.html for parts diagrams. Your valve cover and then your engine head are the two links here:

http://alpha-sports.com/spst/1982%20GS1100E,ES/12.htm

http://alpha-sports.com/spst/1982%20GS1100E,ES/13.htm

Above the exhaust ports, the gaskets and seals all appear on the valve cover diagram (the first link). They are:
#2 = valve cover gasket
#11 = camchain cover gasket
#16 = seal band on the tachometer drive gear sleeve
#17 = seal inside the tachometer drive gear sleeve (aka tachometer drive gear seal)

Is there somewhere on the diagrams you can describe as where the oil is coming from?

I just replaced the tachometer drive seal band, seal inside the sleeve and the drive gear itself on my bike, to stop an oil leak.

Thanks again. I really appreciate it.

You're very welcome. I love trying to solve these things.. :-)

[khansmith]

Is there somewhere on the diagrams you can describe as where the oil is coming from?

It is the engine head gasket around the center stud. I will loosen and retighten. Probably just got loose.

You have been great. thank you so much.

[khansmith]

Your going to have to tackle this yourself. All the Suzuki dealers in north Jersey are either to be avoided and/or will not accept a motorcycle this age for service. Sounds like your getting excellent advice already. Just go slow so as not to cause yourself any problems and keep posting your questions here on this forum, I am impressed with the amount of knowledge and experience present on this board.

The help has been amazing and the brotherhood very supportive. I am sure with the advice here, I could do anything.

However, I have such limited time that I need a bike that is supported by mechanic expertise in the area. This support allows me the time to actually enjoy the machine more often. I already have a garage full of one project that takes all my time now. Even a few hours are precious and I can't afford the minor overhaul this bike needs (which outlined above, isn't much..just elbow grease and time). As a result, I am seriously considring selling this bike in favor of a more contemporary one or for a bike that has a better mechanic support base here in New Jersey. I am saddened as I just moved from Seattle and have enjoyed the bike for two years where I had an excellent selection of mechanic support. In fact, the Seattle shop I used loved to take the bike in for maintenance. The bike is in awesome shape and I love the way it looks. I can't tell you all how bummed I am that I feel it will have to come to selling this bike as I hope it would be to someone that cares about these machines as much as we do.

Thanks...I have a lot to think about. You guys have been great.

[f10ab1b]

Seattle GS friendly dealer name?

Kahnsmith, Can you please tell us which dealer in Seattle is GS friendly? My 750 is in need of a tuneup and I would love to work with a mechanic who is already well versed with them. Thanks!

[crag antler]

khan, please if anything else, let us help you before you consider selling the bike.
We have a large base of 82-83 GS1100E people here and we would love to help you.
I believe I have the same leak you have from the front of the motor.
Is it from the "upside down" bolt??
If so, you don't have to remove the engine to repair it.\\/
I plan on doing mine within the next month as soon as funds and parts come together. Once I do, I would be more than happy to document the steps I take to fix the problem.
Please again, let us help you, if we can.

[khansmith]

Kahnsmith, Can you please tell us which dealer in Seattle is GS friendly? My 750 is in need of a tuneup and I would love to work with a mechanic who is already well versed with them. Thanks!

The Suzuki dealer on Greenlake (Aurora) is where I bought and serviced my 82 GS1100.

http://www.aurora-suzuki.com/