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    Replacing fork seals. Stripped bolt.

    I was going to replace the fork seals on the 450 and got the left side done easily. I attempted the right and stripped the allen bolt at the bottom.

    Any suggestions on how to get this one out?

    #2
    I know JUST how you feel... ](*,)

    I just had this happen to me on my GS1100GL forks -- I left comments on my fork seal replacement fun in the Tips & Tricks forum. The one I stripped was also the right fork...

    The "easy" way to get it out is to weld a hex nut onto the allen bolt and turn it instead, then install a replacement...

    Unless there's a mechanical need to disassemble the forks, you can yank/pry out the old seal without removing the inner fork tube. I used a metal pick (narrow and very pointy, the size of a small screwdriver), poked into the fork seal (but not all the way through to the other side), and levered it up. You can get a set of four picks and hooks at Sears for $7.

    Once you get the old seal pried up, keep working it up until you can use your fingers to pull it all the way up the inner fork tube, then drive the new seal down with the old seal on top of it.

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      #3
      Thanks, I was thinking it may be possble to get the seal off without taking it apart. No mechanical problems just a leaking seal. This particular fork would be difficult to weld since there is no clamp over the axle, just a hole where it slides through.

      Allen

      Comment


        #4
        It may be possible to JB Weld a section of allen wrench into the stripped head and spin it out with an electric drill. Depends on how tightly the screw is set.
        If you mix the JB weld 75% base and 25% activator instead of the usual 50/50 mix, the compound will set much harder but with less adhesive power. Will take about 24 hours to set to full strength though.

        Earl


        Originally posted by katoranger
        Thanks, I was thinking it may be possble to get the seal off without taking it apart. No mechanical problems just a leaking seal. This particular fork would be difficult to weld since there is no clamp over the axle, just a hole where it slides through.

        Allen
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          #5
          JB weld is my friend. I will give it a try. I can find a replacement bolt easily.

          Thanks Earl.

          Allen

          Comment


            #6
            Worst case use a drill & drill the head off

            Comment


              #7
              That is another option. Thanks, Allen

              Comment


                #8
                I had this problem as well recently. After much swearing about rounding the head of the bolt, I went down to my local motor factors and bought a screw/bolt removal kit. It wasn't expensive. I drilled a hole down the centre of the allen bolt and then drilled a slightly bigger one until I could get a decent sized removal tool in (they are reverse threaded). Once it had caught and started to make a thread, I got my ratchet on it and gently started turning. All of a sudden the bolt 'cracked' and started to undo! That little kit which cost me £6.99 will be very useful in the future me thinks!

                Hope this helps.

                The problem I've got now is refitting new seals. Is it best to refit with the inner fork leg back in place? I'm going to try the PVC pipe and a rubber mallet method.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Budgie View Post
                  Is it best to refit with the inner fork leg back in place? .
                  Yes...and its the only way.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Budgie View Post
                    I had this problem as well recently. After much swearing about rounding the head of the bolt, I went down to my local motor factors and bought a screw/bolt removal kit. It wasn't expensive. I drilled a hole down the centre of the allen bolt and then drilled a slightly bigger one until I could get a decent sized removal tool in (they are reverse threaded). Once it had caught and started to make a thread, I got my ratchet on it and gently started turning. All of a sudden the bolt 'cracked' and started to undo! That little kit which cost me £6.99 will be very useful in the future me thinks!

                    Hope this helps.

                    The problem I've got now is refitting new seals. Is it best to refit with the inner fork leg back in place? I'm going to try the PVC pipe and a rubber mallet method.
                    That is the first and only time I have ever heard of a screw remover (AKA "easy-out") actually working as planned. 99.9999% of the time, they simply break off in the bolt.

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                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by bwringer View Post
                      That is the first and only time I have ever heard of a screw remover (AKA "easy-out") actually working as planned. 99.9999% of the time, they simply break off in the bolt.

                      Congratulations!
                      I must admit, using the screw/bolt remover was a last resort. If that hadn't worked or had broken off then I don't know what I'd have done apart from buy new forks! I can't understand why the bolts are so soft and easy to 'round off' even with an allen key. I'm pleased it did work though especially when you say that they normally snap off. It was the first time I'd ever used one as well! \\/

                      Still, it's done now and the forks are back together (thankfully) - just moving on to the brake seals now .
                      Apparently the forks are off a GS1000 and I need to find out how much fork oil they take. Do I put the fork oil in 'as is' or should I mix it with normal engine oil? I read somewhere it had to be mixed.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        No, definitely do not mix. Just choose your viscosity (10W or 15W) and put in the proper amount of straight fork oil.

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