Beginning to get frustrated with my 7000+ RPM problem.

[Jethro]

Did you drill the slide vents out with the bit supplied with the DJ kit? If not it could reek havok with your fuel mixture. Other than that, it's all been said before me in this thread!

[Chris Daniel]

Alrighty, on the air jet, I used the "correctors" that came with the kit. The actual jet is stock as far as I know.

The floats were set according to the Clymers manual using the ROUND part of the float, not the flat part (which lowers the float). I just flipped the carbs over and measured from the gasket surface to the top of the round part of the float.

Yes, I drilled the slides according to the kit.

My primary mode of transportation crapped out on me so I have been working on it trying to get it going, so I can get back to the bike and do some plug chops.

Hope this info helps.

Thanks again.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Did you measure with the bowl gasket REMOVED? If not, you'll be leaner than you anticipated.
This would be a problem if you set the floats near or at their maximum heigth to begin with.
Hard to believe the jet kit mains are so far off that you get this kind of higher speed problem. Possible though.
I've never experienced "bucking" as you describe from a too small main. Just a general lack of power, but still "even" in performance.
I tend to think you've got a fuel starvation problem but not from a too small main. A lower bowl level would cause the main/jet needle to draw an aerated/uneven flow that could cause a bucking/erratic acceleration.
I'd double check the levels. I know you say the carbs are clean/no possible intake leaks.
If all are OK, I'd try 160 Mikuni mains. If you still notice no real change, you've got a fuel starvation problem I think.

[Chris Daniel]

I have been reading alot about the float levels and I am beginning to think that I have set the floats too low.

When I adjusted the floats to the round part of the float I had to bend the tang pretty far to get there. By setting the floats using the flat part where it joins to metal the tangs were darn near flat. I think I will try adjusting them using the flat part of the float (which will raise the floats conciderably) and see what that does.

I believe when I redid the top end I just took the carbs off and put them back on. That is when I found the highend problem, so I took the carbs all the way apart and put a new kit in them, that is when I adjusted the floats using the round part of the float.

Anyway, I have dirt track stock car racing tonight, so I think I will readjust those floats in the morning and let ya know how it goes.

If any of this doesnt sound like my problem, let me know.

Thanks again.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

OK. Just be sure to set them to what the FACTORY manual states. I've found the "Clymers" manuals, etc, to often be wrong or give a wide range of adjustment that can cause problems. Maybe a new thread specifically asking if someone has the factory info for your model?
I'm still not sure how you're setting your floats and at what point you're measuring and what you're doing to achieve this. Are you using verniers? Can you show a pic so we'll be sure of your procedure? But be sure the gasket is removed.
There's a help section here on the CV carbs that may show you what you need to know. Did you check it?
There's also a measuring tool/tube that attaches to the bowl drain screw that will show you what level the fuel is inside the carbs. The factory manual also shows where this external level should be on your carb body.
As I always say, be sure the "basics" are right first before any re-jetting.
Float level is critical to the jetting. A bit low and the jets can't draw sufficient fuel, too high and it's too easy for the jets to draw fuel.

[Chris Daniel]

Here is how I set mine. (link below)

But all the other pictures I can find show to have set at the flat part of the float. Plus the bike ran great with it set on the flat part instead of the round part. I also have to bend the crap out of the little tang to get it set correctly using the round part of the float.

That is why it has me thinking that I should reset it using the flat part of the float, which will raise the fuel level in the bowl conciderably. BTW, the factory specs (according to the lists that were posted on this site) for float height are 22.4mm +/-1.0 (0.88in +/-0.04) with the bowl gasket removed.

See what ya think.

Thanks again.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Hmmm...that pic shows the correct factory adjustment. The top of the float is the top of the round part. The flat part isn't actually the float, just the bracket.
From the factory, the float tab is generally in line/flush with the surrounding float arm/bracket material. If you tried to set the floats by using the flat/arm part of the float, then you'd have to bend the tab quite a bit...to the point you just KNOW something's not right.
But you're saying the opposite. You have to bend the tab a lot when adjusting by the top of the round float body. Doesn't figure and isn't my experience.
If you have to "modify" this procedure, then something's not stock here.
Either the float valve needles/seat assemblies are a different length or the floats are from another model that may use a different design? I don't know.
It appears you have to compensate for this and the bike ran better you say when you made this "non-factory" adjustment.
It could be something else that causing this but I don't know what. I just know that compensation adjustments always expose something else.
The bike appears to be running lean from fuel starvation though.
Try to make/borrow/buy the external fuel level measuring tool and adjust the floats to make the external level within the factory specs. That should settle any fuel level issues.

[Chris Daniel]

PROBLEM SOLVED.....WOO FRIGGIN HOO.

Keith, you are going to love this .

I spent the better part of the afternoon doing plugchops on the bike. Cylinders 1-4 were reading dead rich every time, cylinders 2-3 were slightly on the lean side (they were light grey). I got home and decided, hmm, I will try pulling my EMGO filters off and trying a buddies UNI pod filters, just to see........................

First rattle out of the box it pulled to about 11,000 RPM without even one ounce of hesitation (I wasnt expecting it and didnt shift fast enough). After making sure everything was OK I ran it again and it would pull to redline in every gear without even a hint of problem. Went out on the highway and made a full throttle run up to about 110MPH and she ran like it was brand new. Cruised it around at all different speeds, with a few short blasts to redline, ran like a bat out of hell. I wasnt able to do any real plug chops, but after all that riding I came home, pulled the plugs, and they are all equal and a bit on the rich side, so I still have some adjustments to do, but it will be a ton easier now.

So, I am going to go to the bike shop and get some UNI cleaner and oil and revamp these UNI's and run them untill I can afford some K&N's. I am also going to resync my carbs with the clean UNI's because I know the EMGO's have my sync all out of whack. My buddy got a new bike and left his old one over at my house.....so the filters are going to be his "storage fee" LOL.

This whole friggin time it was those stupid EMGO pods giving me hell. I couldnt believe it, I have spent months on end pulling my hair out trying to figure this problem out and the whole time it was the filters.

I want to thank everyone for their help on this problem, especially Keith for the very in depth and detailed jetting/carb info. Plus Duane for my new shiny clean coils .

Keith, I am now a believer when it comes to quality filters. I need to quit being such a tightwad LOL.

Thanks again, I really appreciate the help.

P.S. I reset the floats before I did the plugchops using the flat part instead of the round part, that is the way they were set when I got the bike.....so I will leave them like that and see how it goes. Unless you think I really should readjust them back?

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I'm glad the bike is running better!
A word of caution though. You made two changes (float levels and different filters) before re-testing. So it's hard to say for sure what the fix is.
I can see where two dirty or somehow clogged filters could make two cylinders run rich, BUT, I can't see why the other two cylinders would run lean because of the same filters. Sure, you could have two cylinders running lean and not be the fault of the filters, but you say all four replacement filters yielded somewhat rich reads after they were installed, suggesting the cheaper pods were NOT to blame for the previous lean reads at those two cylinders. If the two lean cylinders became somewhat rich just from a filter swap, that would suggest the Uni filters are more restrictive. I'm not sure why all this is, but it's conflicting.
What makes more sense is that your adjusted float levels are allowing more fuel to enter and that's helped. I'd have to say it's the float adjustment that fixed things, but again, you deliberately adjusted them differently than the factory manual states and the way I've always adjusted them (with no problems). Good results from that way of adjusting the floats doesn't make sense.
Don't get me wrong, I'm glad your bike is running better but when things don't add up or make sense, I have to wonder.
Let us know if you need help later on.

[Chris Daniel]

Well, actually, I changed the float height that morning. I went and did roughly 10 plugchops with no noticable difference from before (problem wise).

It was only when I changed the filters that the bike ran like it was supposed too. That is why I do not think the floats had anything to do with it, because it still had the problem with the floats set different from the factory.

It really doesnt make a ton of sense......but it worked LOL.

Thanks again.