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82 1100E
I just put in a new Vesrah clutch (VC-335), with the heavy-duty Vesrah springs (SK-303), ordered from Dennis Kirk.
I torqued the clutch bolts down to 80-ish inch-lbs (a friend was kind enough to loan me his inch-lb. torque wrench, as I don't have a torque wrench of any kind). When I put everything back together, there was quite a bit of play in my clutch cable, so I adjusted it, mainly at the adjustment above the clutch/transmission. Now the lever starts moving the clutch almost immediately.
A few details (bear with me here....) When the bike is not running, and in neutral, it's easy to roll. When I put it in first, and pull the clutch lever all the way in, the bike is noticeably harder to roll forwards or backwards than when it's in neutral. This leads me to believe the clutch isn't disengaging all the way, becuase I don't recall noticing a difference between neutral and in gear/clutch lever in with my old clutch.
However- I can start the bike, put it in first, and hold the clutch lever *all* the way in, and the bike doesn't move. If I let the lever out even a tad, the bike starts to move. Perhaps that's how I want it, and my old clutch/cable adjustment was out of whack and I never noticed it (this is my first bike, and the first time I have replaced the clutch).
1. I'm concerned that my clutch isn't disengaging as much as it should be, since it's hard to push when in gear. Is this a legitimate concern?
2. If the clutch bolts weren't torqued to spec, would it create this type of issue? I didn't check my Chilton's (left it at a friend's house), but found a post on here that indicated the 1100's torque to 7lbs.
3. Are the heavy-duty Vesrah springs making a difference? They were about a 1/4" longer than the ones I took out (most likely Suzuki OEM), but whether that's from compression of the old springs, or the amount of spring material, I don't know.
Thanks in advance for any info/advice; I'm still learning here.
-A
I just put in a new Vesrah clutch (VC-335), with the heavy-duty Vesrah springs (SK-303), ordered from Dennis Kirk.
I torqued the clutch bolts down to 80-ish inch-lbs (a friend was kind enough to loan me his inch-lb. torque wrench, as I don't have a torque wrench of any kind). When I put everything back together, there was quite a bit of play in my clutch cable, so I adjusted it, mainly at the adjustment above the clutch/transmission. Now the lever starts moving the clutch almost immediately.
A few details (bear with me here....) When the bike is not running, and in neutral, it's easy to roll. When I put it in first, and pull the clutch lever all the way in, the bike is noticeably harder to roll forwards or backwards than when it's in neutral. This leads me to believe the clutch isn't disengaging all the way, becuase I don't recall noticing a difference between neutral and in gear/clutch lever in with my old clutch.
However- I can start the bike, put it in first, and hold the clutch lever *all* the way in, and the bike doesn't move. If I let the lever out even a tad, the bike starts to move. Perhaps that's how I want it, and my old clutch/cable adjustment was out of whack and I never noticed it (this is my first bike, and the first time I have replaced the clutch).
1. I'm concerned that my clutch isn't disengaging as much as it should be, since it's hard to push when in gear. Is this a legitimate concern?
2. If the clutch bolts weren't torqued to spec, would it create this type of issue? I didn't check my Chilton's (left it at a friend's house), but found a post on here that indicated the 1100's torque to 7lbs.
3. Are the heavy-duty Vesrah springs making a difference? They were about a 1/4" longer than the ones I took out (most likely Suzuki OEM), but whether that's from compression of the old springs, or the amount of spring material, I don't know.
Thanks in advance for any info/advice; I'm still learning here.
-A
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