Got my new brake pads in, any tips for installing?

[gotjeepzj]

You know like when doing your brakes on an auto its much easier to use a C-clamp to push the piston back into the caliber eliminating the need for bleeding.

[makarov]

I just got done doing the brakes on my 85 700es.... A few things to watch for..

Screws on master cylinder. They seem to be very easy to strip. Soak them with penetrating oil and find a screwdriver that *fits* I ended up having to cut a slot in one with a Dremel... Loosen these first to see if you can even get them out.

Remove two bolts on caliper (not the larger ones on the fork leg) - carefully pull off piston assembly - look inside for metal clips - notice how theygo in. Also notice the small metal "glide" pieces that are under the pads on the caliper bodies - dont know how to describe them about 1.5" long shaped like very small angle iron. Anyway mine fell off and it took me a while to figure out where they came from. I don't have a manual...

Open bleed valve, and yes a c-clamp works great....I used paper towels and soaked up all the old crappy fluid out of the master cylinder at this point...

Put in new pads, and reassemble, spray down with brake cleaner after bleeding them. It took me a while bleeding the brakes, keep an eye on the resevoir. I had to add some a few times. It seemed to take a long time to build up pressure, but eventually I kept pumping and opening bleed valves and getting a little air out each time. I have the anti-dive system, so was bleeding all 4 valves. Not sure it was necessary, but wanted to be sure to get air out and some of the old fluid.

New pads work OK, but I think they need to get bedded in, I haven't ridden on them other than a few trips up and down the street. Take it easy until you feel like they are stopping normally.

[makarov]

I just re-read your post. I don't think pushing the pistons in with a c-clamp is advisable unless you open the bleed valve. If the fluid has been in the system a long time, probably a good idea to get as much out as possible. It is hydroscopic.

[Basket Case]

It's also a LOT easier to bleed bike brakes than car brakes. I usually do a fluid switch when I'm changing the pads, just because I'm there anyways, and I'm kinda hard on my brakes

[Carter Turk]

You should be able to take off the caliper bolts and rock the caliper with old pads still in against the disc pushing the piston in.

Then slip in the new ones.

[bwringer]

On my bike, I use hand pressure only to retract the pistons -- no C-clamps. Just stready pressure and they'll slowly retract in 10-20 seconds.

If it takes more force than that, I want to know about it.

On a car with its much larger piston, you do need to use a retractor or c-clamp, but it still shouldn't take much pressure.

Also, do one side at a time or retracting one piston will move the other one out.

[gotjeepzj]

I swapped them out. My old pads were fine. The right pad had the groove completely filled with gunk though. Also on that caliber it looked liked someone tried to fix the dust boot on the piston with silicone! I didn't notice the metal shim thingy till after I reinstalled the new pads, so I'll replace those tommorrow. At first thre was no squeal but now it's back, any suggestions?

[tconroy]

I swapped them out. My old pads were fine. The right pad had the groove completely filled with gunk though. Also on that caliber it looked liked someone tried to fix the dust boot on the piston with silicone! I didn't notice the metal shim thingy till after I reinstalled the new pads, so I'll replace those tommorrow. At first thre was no squeal but now it's back, any suggestions?

I bought the anti squeal brake liquid at the auto parts store. Just put some on the back of the pad and spread it around and wait for about 10 minutes then put em on. It works great!