HELP!!Going electronic.'81-'79-750. Will it work?

[5RON5]

My last post didn't get any answers. Can somebody please tell me if a electronic '81 750L will work in my points '79 750L????? And do I need the coils too? Any & all words of advice will be very helpful. I don't even know if it will work or not! Thank you. Ron..

[humhead]

It can be done. You will need the entire 81 ignition system (signal generator, igniter box, coils) I bought a parts bike (79 750) that had this mod & it ran well.
I chose not to use it because of the ignitor box. They go bad when you least expect it & cost ~$300 new. The other issue is the wiring mods to make it work.
A dyna S system is better in the long run. minimal changes to the bike, works great. I have dyna s ignition on all three of my bikes.

Terry

[5RON5]

Thank you Terry, for your reply. I didn't think anybody was going to give me the answer to this one! Boy, you have enlightened me to the fact that, if you do something, do it right! I thank you for that. 'Cause I could'a bit off more than I could chew on this one. I really am glad you responded! So, it may be more trouble than necessary, huh? I wanted the electronic ign, after trying to do my points, & found out, they're not at all like an auto's point system is. I learned the hard way, & wanted electronic. from then on. So my friend, another member of this elite group, said he had an '81, that might work. But even he said it may be a bigger problem than expected. So that confirms it. I won't be using anything but the right one, if I can ever afford one. You say it should be a "Dyna S" is the only way to go, huh? Just that? Nothing else that would have to go w/it? Just that ign then? No coils or other goodies? I'd kind'a like to know, due to the fact that, if I need anything else to make it an electronic ign, I would need to know how far in debt it would take me. Since you have or had other parts bikes, you wouldn't happen to have the slotted rotors, that would fit mine, would ya? Mine are the all metal think ones-no slots or anything. Just stock '79'ers. I was told that in those similar year bikes, that they would, just about all fit mine. I think they, the slotted rotors, came out in '80. Again, thanks for letting me know not to throw good money, at possibly a bad idea. You may have saved me from myself! HA! So if you've got what I would like to have, or you can answer my questions about the ign, please do. Thanks! Ron..

[humhead]

The dyna S is designed to work with the stock coils. If your bike has the original 27 year old coils, I'd change to either dyna green coils or Accel coils. I noticed a difference on both my 750 & 1000 with new coils. Easier cold starts, smoother running.
This site has good prices & a good rep : http://www.z1enterprises.com/
So does this one : http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/Index_Main_Frame.htm
This will fix one of the three problem areas on your bike.
The other two are the regulator/rectifier & steering head bearings.
There are inexpensive upgrades for these parts, too.
After that, all that's left is miles of enjoyment!

Terry

[5RON5]

Damn! Thanks! That's way more'n I hoped for. On that Regulator/Rectifier, does that need to be replaced when the Dana is, or can it be done at any time after changing over to the Dana? You should mention the steering thing. When I take my hands off the bars when I am riding it, it gets to shaking real bad. Is this the reason? Needing better bearings? If so, I'd better be looking into it pretty soon, huh? Thanks Terry, for your advisement. Right now, I am trying to get it back on the road, after having a rear flat. Now I have to order a tire & wait to get it! DAMN! Well, at least they are gonn'a put it on for free after I bring it to them. But I will keep in mind what you've said about these things. It'll be awhile before I can even think about changing over though. Thanks you lots!!!!Ron..

[humhead]

The reulator rectifier is a key part of the charging system. Check out the stator papers on this site for more info. You don't necessariliy have to change the R/R at the same time.
The steering head bearings could cause the problem (headshake) but I'd check the wheel, tire & front forks as well.

Terry

[5RON5]

Will do Terry! What am I looking for as for as the wheel? Besides the obvious things-bent, cracked, tire-oblong, bubble, what not etc! I think I read in one of the books about being to tight or bearings to tight. It spins fine. No bubbles or imperfections. Except, looks like the front tire was sitting for awhile before I got it. 'Cause the tire has weather cracks in it all over. Not real bad, but noticeable. Just bought a back tire due to flat. Will get a front as soon as I can. What do ya mean w/the forks? That's something I have never done, is check the oil or anything to do w/the front forks period! I wouldn't even know what to look for or what to do if I did find something. Other than the obvious. Don't know anything about oil or the like! I do know, that when I first go to run it in the morning after sitting all night, when I go to move it up straight, the forks have a small catch in them. Like they were hung up on something. & when they hit a certain spot from moving the bike straight up, it UN-catches & the forks go down w/the full weight of the bike. Like they are in a notch or something. That right? Or a problem? I want to thank you for taking some time to see to my problems. If ya hang around awhile, your sure to hear about them all! HA! Thanks again~ Ron..

[SqDancerLynn1]

If it has weather cracks GET A NEW TIRE ASAP

[humhead]

I re read your last post this morning & I realize I missed the last part. DEFINITELY have your forks checked. It's difficult to accurately diagnose problems without "being there", but what you describe is cause for concern.

Lynn is right about your tires. If they are old and show any sign of cracking, replace 'em. Ditto your brake lines.

Terry

[kalessin]

Will do Terry! What am I looking for as for as the wheel? Besides the obvious things-bent, cracked, tire-oblong, bubble, what not etc! I think I read in one of the books about being to tight or bearings to tight. It spins fine. No bubbles or imperfections. Except, looks like the front tire was sitting for awhile before I got it. 'Cause the tire has weather cracks in it all over. Not real bad, but noticeable. Just bought a back tire due to flat. Will get a front as soon as I can. What do ya mean w/the forks? That's something I have never done, is check the oil or anything to do w/the front forks period! I wouldn't even know what to look for or what to do if I did find something. Other than the obvious. Don't know anything about oil or the like! I do know, that when I first go to run it in the morning after sitting all night, when I go to move it up straight, the forks have a small catch in them. Like they were hung up on something. & when they hit a certain spot from moving the bike straight up, it UN-catches & the forks go down w/the full weight of the bike. Like they are in a notch or something. That right? Or a problem? I want to thank you for taking some time to see to my problems. If ya hang around awhile, your sure to hear about them all! HA! Thanks again~ Ron..

About checking the forks... there's not much there to check.

Check this out, a graphic of the parts of a fork and an explanation how they work:

http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tech/fork_suspension_technology/

Basically, the common maintenance items your forks need are:
-- Healthy springs
-- Fork seals to hold the oil in the system
--The right amount of fork oil (in good condition and of a thickness ("weight") preferred by the rider
-- Non-rusty fork tubes (rusty and/or pitted ones will tear the sealing surface of the fork seals)

Less common problems:
-- Damping rod holes worn open wider than they should be
-- Metal slider bushings (if your bike has them) worn out or damaged (they're at the bottom of the inner fork tube, sliding against the inner wall of the outer fork tube; mine showed almost no wear after 30,000 miles on the clock)
-- Bent fork tubes

You can tell you need new fork seals if they start leaking, first leaving oily rings around the inner fork legs, and then leaking outright. You can also pry up the dust seals (with a small flat-blade screwdriver) at the top of the outer fork legs and see if any oil is accumulating in the gap under the seal.

Fork oil should be replaced when the fork seals are replaced. On the big heavy GS's with larger riders, 20w finds some favor, but 15w or even 10w is used. The various repair manuals describe how to replace fork seals and check the other parts.

The only way to check fork oil is to take the forks off the bike, remove the top caps and springs and spring spacers, and measure the distance down to the top of the oil inside the inner fork tube (with the fork compressed).

Finally, about the sticking (I've also heard the word "stiction", which may be "sticking friction" part, I'm not sure how much is normal. My forks stick a bit, but they're just fine when riding.

[5RON5]

I will be sure to check my forks when I have the time. Joel, thanks! My forks don't have any oil, nor do they kind'a do that 'lil sticking when I am riding either. Or I don't feel it even when I am stopped either. No remnants oil leakage. So maybe I am okay there. But a new front tire is in the works! Should be getting the new back tire today sometime. Terry, thanks for all the info on the ign. Looks like it'll be awhile before I can go to electronic. Thanks guys for your help,Ron...