Rotella 5 W 40

[headsbikesmopars]

Anyone here use the Rotella 5W40 full synthetic in thier GS's? Thanks.

[The Kelzer]

You're taliking about your MOTORCYCLE right?? Then use JASO MA or MB rated Motorcycle Oil only (DUH)...not Diesel Truck Oil, not Castrol GTX, Mobil One "red cap" (or whatever color cap floats your boat), Pennzoil or KIRKLAND. JUST DON'T DO IT. But it's your bike and your money (are you that cheap?).

That's all I'm saying cause I've been down this route with this forum before. These guys run anything they want so I guess you could too. These bikes are overbuilt and under stressed so you could use Wesson Oil I bet.

But I know better and I use JASO MA or MB rated oils exclusively.

Ta ta.
[-o<

[ruddy]

I use it, and it works just fine: no clutch or shifting problems, etc. You may get a little seepage from a gasket somewhere, but it should be minor. I get a little from the front left valve cover.

I know there's a LOT of controversy over M/C specific oil vs regular automotive oil, but I go with what Suzuki recommends: regular automotive oil. Now that synthetics have improved and come down in price, I'll use those. I still change the oil & filter every 3K miles.

[83'GK]

Wow, your brave....coming around for round two there Mr Kelzer?


Headsbikesmopars, try this thread....

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...highlight=type

[earlfor]

I havent used it, but a lot of people here do and I have never heard any complaint about it. I will probably try it in the future on one of my bikes.

Earl

Anyone here use the Rotella 5W40 full synthetic in thier GS's? Thanks.

[Steve]

Have not used it in either of my GSs yet, but have used it for several years in my 3 water-cooled bikes. No oil-related problems.


.

[duaneage]

Don't start the Oil Thread $#it again, I beg you!

[Mysuzyq]

This thread is more to the point ...........

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=91759

Tony.

[Boondocks]

You're taliking about your MOTORCYCLE right?? Then use JASO MA or MB rated Motorcycle Oil only (DUH)...not Diesel Truck Oil, not Castrol GTX, Mobil One "red cap" (or whatever color cap floats your boat), Pennzoil or KIRKLAND. JUST DON'T DO IT. But it's your bike and your money (are you that cheap?).

That's all I'm saying cause I've been down this route with this forum before. These guys run anything they want so I guess you could too. These bikes are overbuilt and under stressed so you could use Wesson Oil I bet.

But I know better and I use JASO MA or MB rated oils exclusively.

Ta ta.
[-o<

Follow this misinformed opinon at your own risk. The root arrogance and ignorance of this opinion is displayed in the thread started at I Went To Some Meetings So I Know More Than You Do.

As a further example of blithering gobbledygook, consider the advice to use JASO MB motorcycle oil. What does MB mean? It is friction modified (energy conserving) oil that doesn't meet the friction standards of MA graded oil. It is designated MB by default. This oil should definitely not be used in a motorcycle unless the manufacturer specifically specifies MB motorcycle oil, as almost never happens. The purpose of the JASO specification was, to quote the JASO T 903 Implementation Manual:

In recent years, automotive oil quality requirements have tended toward lower viscosity and lower friction to achieve better fuel economy. There are concerns that such low friction and low viscosity oils cause clutch slippage and gear pitting wear in motorcycle transmissions....

The apocryphal clutch slippage "concerns" are supposedly caused by energy conserving oil. In fact, there are no oil viscosities specified for motorcycles that fall in the energy conserving range. The lower friction and low viscosity concerns are an empty argument. There is no problem in using an automotive oil of the recommended viscosity, but oil marked "energy conserving" should be avoided as a precautionary measure. There is a problem in taking bad advice and using the wrong oil in the first place, like JASO MB.

BTW, the JASO specification allows API Specifications SE, SF, SG, SH, SJ, SL to be certified using the JASO tests.

I am currently using Rotella 5W-40 synthetic in my bike. It is a petroleum (organic) based oil as is practically all of the "synthetic" oil sold in the U.S.. The chemically manufactured Group IV (PAO) and V (ester) based synthetic oils make up a very small percentage of the market, and usually sell for $8.00 per quart or more. The Group III base oil "synthetics" such as the Rotella 5W-40 reach their high quality by the advanced refining method known as hydroprocessing. Hydroprocessing consists of three stages:
1. HYDROCRACKING
2. HYDROISOMERIZATION (ISODEWAXING®)
3. HYDROFINISHING

Leaks due to seal shrinkage was associated in the '70s and '80s with (non-petroleum) synthetics, due to a poor choice of base stocks and additives needed to counteract this tendency. This is not a concern. If an oil with advanced cleaning additives is introduced to a poorly maintained engine and cleans sludge covering old cracked seals and gaskets, leaks may be noticed which the sludge and deposits had blocked.

The mythological "dino" phrase used for petroleum (organic) based oil is also describing the majority of the "synthetic" oil sold today in the U.S..

[Road_Clam]

Anyone here use the Rotella 5W40 full synthetic in thier GS's? Thanks.

In all my years of being around all types of bikes, it truly amazes me how technicaly "concerned" people get over motorcycle engine oil. In my 25 years of experience I have absolutely NEVER heard of any type of lubrication related engine failure, let alone a failure due to a specific brand (and trust me I see a TON of engine failures every day, and 75% are due to owner ignorance and stupidity, NOT the type ,or brand of oil they used). My only argument is STAY with ANY brand of motorcycle specific oil, as they are specifically engineered to be used with wet multi plate friction clutches. Pick a viscosity that fits your needs, ex: high milage/low milage and ambient seasonal temps. As for syn. vs. petro, I prefer petro, and TIMELY oil changes. I have NEVER had a single issue. I had a bad clutch slipping exparience with a full synthetic so I personally don't use the stuff. As always this is STRICTLY just my opinions.
Rich

[ghwrenchit]

Don't start the Oil Thread $#it again, I beg you!

I hear ya.... but here it is. As the saying goes, everyone's got one, just like the crack in the backside. So hears my crack speaking.....

Newer oils, besides the weight/viscosity, are all about shelve space in the store, just like soda pop. The more flavors you have, the better chance to sell. The RC C@la of the oil world is SOL unless the die hard can find its little space on the shelf.

Ever notice that most oils are in opaque containers? They don't want you to see the color variation until you've already done the drain job and you have no choice but to pour it in. The more expensive oils in clear containers have a freak'in chemist watching the batch to make sure it "looks good".

Motor manufactures love to sell the add-on's branded. It's what the dealers hope will keep business flowing. I personally don't have a problem with that, as long as prices are within reason.


I used to have a Merc 4 cylinder I/O in a boat. Recommended oil in manual stated 25W40 Merc branded oil. (find that weight in the store by any other brand!!!) $3.70 a quart at the dealer X 5. Reading the fine print in the manual.... "may be substituted with SAE #30 !!!!

Case in point two:

Two strokes. Yes, I know we don't have these but..... All of the engine mfg's for most outdoor power eqpt have their branded oil. 24:1, 32:1, 50:1..... at what ?? $2-$3 a pint ??? Kiss my @ss. What they are not telling you is that "Their" oil is a special formulation to give this wacked out ratio.

My father-in law used to keep 4 plus gas cans for each of his toys all labeled.... weed whip, chain saw, leaf blower, snow blower, yada, yada, yada... I said to him one day, dad, do me a favor... go buy a quart of normal old 2-stroke oil @ 1.99 anywhere, fill a can, mix it 50:1, and use it in everything. If something burns up, I'll buy you a new one... no questions asked. I've yet to need to fullfill that promise, and i've never in my life sacrificed a two-stroke, nor fogged my neighbors yard with the toy.

Case in point three:

Oil is like a freakin' toothbrush.... what can you possibly do, year after year after year to advertise a new model. Rubber this, flex that, blue bristle, long reach, curved tip, high mileage, SUV, 4-cylinder formula, High Altitude, NASA approved, GUM massaging, Tongue scraper....... you get'in my crack thoughts???:-D

Case in point four:

Change it often. Oil gets dirty. It doesn't disappear (unless leaking-of course.)
Pick a brand you like, stick with it, and be happy changing it often. No matter what you choose, your engine will love you, my crack guarantee's it......

Thank you for allowing my (crack's..) Opinion, and I hope I have offended no one.

GH

I love this place, I'm hoping I'm welcome in the family!!!!