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1998 GMC Safari Shock Absorber removal and intalation.

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    1998 GMC Safari Shock Absorber removal and intalation.

    Hi Gang.

    I have a technical question re: 1998 GMC Safari two wheel drive. (Yes I know it’s not a motorcycle).

    I would like to know what is the best way to remove and install the front shocks from this thing. When I try to turn the top-mounting bolt on the shock, the shaft that goes into the shock cylinder keeps turning. Should I use vice grips to hold the top while using a box end wrench to loosen the old shock and tightening the new shock. Or is there another secret that I don't know about.

    Thanks for any INFO.

    Roman

    #2
    It would be okay to use vise grips on the old shock, but I wouldn't use them on the new shock. If you need to hold the rod for tightening the new shock use something between the vise grips and the rod so you don't scar the rod.

    Comment


      #3
      I think you have the correct procedure- the end of the shock arm should be squared off for this purpose. I did this on my Nova a little while ago.

      Comment


        #4
        Sorry, didn't read close enough. Philly answered right.

        Comment


          #5
          I've had this problem before too - on an older Cherokee, I was able to wrap a loop of cotton cord (about 3/8" thick) around the shock rod and get enough grip to hold it in place, using a screwdriver to twist the cord until it was tight enough. But that was the hard way... Putting the new one on, I realized it would be easier to split a piece of rubber hose (vacuum line or fuel line) and put it on the rod as a cushion for a pair of vice grips. You'd think that the engineers would've squared off a portion of the rod on the bottom side of the shock tower to grab onto....


          Backyard mechanix. And my wife gripes about the assorted coffee cans full of "I might need that" in the garage...

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Q!
            I've had this problem before too - on an older Cherokee, I was able to wrap a loop of cotton cord (about 3/8" thick) around the shock rod and get enough grip to hold it in place, using a screwdriver to twist the cord until it was tight enough. But that was the hard way... Putting the new one on, I realized it would be easier to split a piece of rubber hose (vacuum line or fuel line) and put it on the rod as a cushion for a pair of vice grips. You'd think that the engineers would've squared off a portion of the rod on the bottom side of the shock tower to grab onto....


            Backyard mechanix. And my wife gripes about the assorted coffee cans full of "I might need that" in the garage...
            I agree with you %100. For some reason I doubt that the engineers care very much about back yard mechanics. It just doesn’t make any money for the dealerships.

            Comment


              #7
              Roman,

              Many years ago I bought a special tool for use on shock absorbers. It is a two-ended device, with a cylinder on one end that is internally threaded, to screw onto the shock shaft to pull it up through the mounting surface (upper control arm, etc.). The other end is a broader, flat area with 2 or 3 different "cutouts" to act as sockets to fit over the top of the shock shaft with flattened sides, slotted top, etc. I've used it whenever I've changed shocks on any of my vehicles; it works well. I think it was made by K-D Tool Co. Other automotive tool makers like MAC or Snap-On may make similar tools; check your local auto parts store(s), and MAC or Snap-On dealers. I think it was a reasonably inexpensive tool; but anything from MAC is kind of pricey (good quality, though); Snap-On is equally good quality, but exorbitantly priced ! (Just my opinion).

              Yes, a vise grip will work just fine, if you can grip above the nut until you get it loose enough to be able to remove the nut by hand. That'd be the same with the special tool I described above, anyhow. You can grip on the shaft below the nut wherever you can get on it, but as already pointed out, you do risk marring the shaft on the new shock, unless you protect it somehow.

              Good luck.

              Comment


                #8
                The easiest way to remove the old shock is to put a deepwel socket and a long extension. then push forward and pull backwards a few times then the top of the shock will break just below the nut. and you can pull it out through the bottom. As for putting the new ones in , I have a piece of3/8 fuel line slit down the middle and put that over the rod and hold with a visegrip.
                Mike

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks you gang.

                  Lynn, I'll see if I could find such a tool. I will try my neighbourhood auto parts store, really don't need much of an excuse to buy a tool.

                  After putting more thought into it, I came up with this.
                  I was going to screw to nuts on the top portion of the threaded part of the shock rod, hoping that the lower nut would act as a lock nut. This way I could hold the upper nut while loosening the shock nut. :? Since I would be turning the shock nut in a Counter clockwise rotation, the two newly installed nuts would lock against each other while holding the upper one. And the result would hopefully be a loose nut. What do you think?

                  I know, I know, the special tool does sound a lot easier.

                  Roman.


                  Thanks again.

                  Roman

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Mike Jost
                    The easiest way to remove the old shock is to put a deepwel socket and a long extension. then push forward and pull backwards a few times then the top of the shock will break just below the nut. and you can pull it out through the bottom. As for putting the new ones in , I have a piece of3/8 fuel line slit down the middle and put that over the rod and hold with a visegrip.
                    Mike
                    Does it actually break that easy?

                    Roman.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I am a mechanic, and when room alows, I use a good pnumatic impact wrench to zip the nut off, and back on.
                      if room does not alow the impact, I use a pnumatic, abrasive cut off tool to cut the nut off.

                      iberkhei, snap-on IS exorbitantly priced, no doubt about it!! $120.00 for a 7 piece torqs socket set, you can get the exact same set (just has a differant name stamped on it) for $25.00 at home depot.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Yes they usually break eaisly you shuld be able to snap it off in 30 seconds or so. The more corossion it has the easier it will break but this has always worked for me in a pinch. A impact gun should also do the job easily. But I never had one for many years.

                        Mike

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