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Starter question

  • Thread starter Thread starter PanheadJosh74
  • Start date Start date
P

PanheadJosh74

Guest
Ok I have a 1982 gs1100gk, After the starter died I got a differant on and the bike turned over great a few times. Now I can hear the starter spin but it does not turn the bike over. I put the bike in gear and rocked the bike back and forth and then pulled the clutch in she fired right up? I shut it off and its back to the same spinning but not turning the motor stuff. I've been told my starter clutch is bad. are these repairable or do I need a new or good used one? How hard are they to change? Do you think this is whats wrong with the bike or should I check something else.

Let me know
Pan
 
its most likely the starter clutch, mine cracked on my bike and the starter would just spin and not turn the motor. its very easy to change, i bought another one off ebay. take the left sidecover off and expect a little oil to come out, theres one bolt holding on the starter clutch, take that out and get a slap hammer to take the starter clutch off, its pressed on but comes off fairly easy. than take a look to see if its cracked or broken and go from there.
 
Tarbash

Tarbash

Thanks for you quick reply, I recently had that cover off to put a new stator on. Its a shame I have to pull it again since I hand made that gaskit out of roll gaskit and to my amazement it did not leak a drop of oil. I saw some "complete assemblies" on ebay that looked like i would have to dig deep into the motor to fix the problem and to be honest I was not no where near prepaired to do that. One more thing could ya tell me what other models will work? Im still not to well versed in the interchangability of this bike.

Much Respect
Pan
 
pulled the cover....

pulled the cover....

Ok I pulled the cover and the gear looks good ( i have not pulled the assembly yet) I called suzuki just for kicks and giggles about pricing parts. Their service guy was real nice and said his guess would be one of two things. either the 3 springs are bad? Which are a whopping 63 cents each or it could be the push roller which is a whole $4.55 Parts sound cheap enough. Are these parts hard to install? I dont want to pay suzuki $60+ an hour to do it thats for sure!! I could not find a complete assembly on ebay so rebuilding the one I have may be my only option. What does everyone think?

My Respects
Pan
 
Should be real easy. On my GS750 you simply remove the starter clutch shim (three bolts) and they are readily accessible. Takes a little maneuvering to get everything in right, but not much of a hassle. Took me about two minutes to put them all back in after they fell out during a starter clutch replacement. After I put them back in I noticed the Clymer manual has a tip for getting them in. Don't remember how they did it, but as I said it was no big deal anyway. I imagine yours would be similar.

-Tony
 
Tony

Tony

I have the CLYMER for my bike which covers gs850-1100 79-84 so Im gonna see if they dont list how to do this all. I didnt recall seeing it last time I looked through the book. Im thinking I should just buy these springs and push roller and replace both since they are cheap enough. Thank you for your imput and saving me some money and hopefully a little time. Any other info anyone has to offer id gladly take.

My Respect 2 you all
Pan
 
A couple other questions

A couple other questions

Ok I have visualy inspected the edge of the clutch set and I see there are two bumps in the smooth piece in front of the gear? Are these supposed to be there? Question 2 is how do i keep the motor from turning over while I remove the bolt? a screwdriver through one of the holes and wedge it against the block? The book says put a block of wood over the cylinder I dont want to remove the head!!! Any tips would be great

Always
Pan
 
As far as question #1 goes, I'm not sure exactly which part you are describing. The starter clutch is mounted directly in front of the gear on my GS750. Take a look at http://www.crotchrocket.com/fiche_select.asp and find the schematic for your starter clutch to see if it helps.

As far as removing the bolt, I usually use an air operated impact driver or a relatively long socket wrench that I can whack pretty good with a hammer until the bolt comes loose. Usually a few good hits with the hammer will do it.

Regarding the Clymer procedure for installing the springs, plungers and rollers in the clutch, here is what they suggest doing for my bike.

a. Place assembly on a clean surface and install spring and plunger (push piece). Hold plunger in position with a small drill bit inserted through hole in assembly body.

b. Slide roller in assembly and gently withdraw drill bit so spring tension holds roller in place. Repeat for other rollers.

As I mentioned earlier, I put mine back in before finding this procedure and it still only took me a few minutes.

Hope this helps.
 
PanheadJosh74 said:
Question 2 is how do i keep the motor from turning over while I remove the bolt? Any tips would be great

Always
Pan
Click to expand...

How about putting it in gear? I'm thinking the higher you go (3, 4, 5?) the harder it should be for the motor to turn over while you're cranking on it...

Good Luck!
 
Nuts loose now what. (more help needed)

Nuts loose now what. (more help needed)

I got the nut loose Now I need to use some sort of a puller to get that magnent off without breaking it. I see the book says let suzuki do this if ya dont have the proper puller. (I doubt there gonna let me borrow one and my guess is they are not cheap) Im guessing the puller they use goes in them shallow round holes? Anyway what kinda puller did you use Tony? An after thought is how do I get that pressed back on? Im afraid of breaking that magnent I hear they are real fragile. Im shade tree I guess Im shying away from the block of wood and hammer aproach. I can not afford to screw this up and I can not afford shop rates to have them do it. Help!!!
 
You need the special tool to remove the rotor, Re installes with the mounting bolt
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
You need the special tool to remove the rotor, Reinstalls with the mounting bolt
Click to expand...
There you go spoiling his fun, Lynn!8O:lol:;-)

The more important question is ... can this tool be made from a standard gear puller? Is it an expensive part if purchased from Suzuki? Who invented Softsoap and why?

(I'm guessing he really only care about the first two questions)

Regards,
 
I have a regular puller

I have a regular puller

Im gonna see if I cant get one of them to grip the back. The worst that will happen is it'll slip off. I will call suzuki for price on the puller for ****s and giggles just for the shock I get on how pricey everything is

My Respects
Pan
 
suzuki offers the puller for $70.00...

suzuki offers the puller for $70.00...

any place else got em cheaper? if not Im gonna try my puller. they also said a week to get one!!!!


Always
pan
 
You can get cheaper versions of the pulling tool online. Go to Dennis Kirk and type puller or flywheel puller in the search field. The puller for my bike is basically a hardened 14mm x 1.5 bolt that threads into the rotor and pushes against the crankshaft. The Clymer manual says to use a slide hammer. Big joke! By the way some use 14mm x 1.5 pullers and some apparently use 16mm x 1.5 bolts. You'll need to know which yours uses. The inexpensive pullers are made by Dennis Stubblefield. I paid around 8 bucks for mine. I have gone to the local NAPA store and purchased a regular bolt of the correct diameter and thread pitch that is long enough to accomplish the task because time was a factor. It did work but the pulling process pretty much destroys the bolt where it makes contact with the crankshaft (the "puller" bolt, not the crankshaft itself!).
 
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Unfortunately, if you damage the rotor, it may be hard to find another good one. I think this may be a case where you really want to use the right tool for the job...

http://www.pitposse.com/pullerchart.html

Going by the parts diagrams at http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm, I think you need model #MP-29, $38, which has the external threads around the hub of the rotor/flywheel (35mm external puller with 1.5mm right-hand thread pitch). Since they have a complete line, you should be able to give them a call and make sure it's the right one.

(There are two models that mention GS1100's, the other one is #MP-14 (which is a puller for an internally threaded hub, 14mm x 1.5mm RH thread), but it says it's for the GS1100/GS1150, which implies the 16-valve GSX model engine rather than the 8-valve GS engine).

I just fed "suzuki 35mm flywheel puller" into google. Here's what popped up:

$36 at http://www.repairmanual.com/items/17/10472

$32 at https://www.partsnmore.com/cat_index.php?model=gs&category=engine
(scroll down or search in the page to part number 35-0062)

(the internet is really nice sometimes...)
 
Last edited:
GOOD Deal

GOOD Deal

Thanx for all the help. I will be ordering one on Monday. Along with the roller, cap and spring kit for the starter clutch. I will keep you all posted. Once again thank you all.

My Respect
Pan
 
You can do it without the puller. I've done the starter clutch on my 850 and thou' this way:

Loosen the rotor bolt by about two turns. Wedge two flat blade screwdrivers 180 degrees apart between the rotor and the gear behind it. Wedge them good and tight. Two or three sharp taps squarely against the rotor bolt and it will pop. Unscrew the rotor bolt completely and slip the whole assembly off the crank. Be certain to hit the bolt absolutely squarely and don't use brute force or you could damage the crankshaft. Those 'bumps' on the starter clutch housing are the result of the springs and rollers taking a hammering. You may get away with just new springs and rollers, but if the boss in the centre of the gear is anything but perfectly round, it'll mean a complete starter cutch. Hope this helps you.
 
Guy said:
Wedge two flat blade screwdrivers 180 degrees apart between the rotor and the gear behind it. Wedge them good and tight.
Click to expand...


Sorry, I was clumsy in my explanation: The starter clutch is behind the rotor. The screwdrivers are wedged between the starter clutch and the gear behind it. This will work for you.
 
Guy

Guy

After finding the proper tool for under $30 dollars I dont see any reason to use the screwdriver method. That $30 bucks is worth piece of mind if ya know what I mean. Thanx anyway

My Respect
Pan
 
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