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My oil won't stay put. Please help.

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    My oil won't stay put. Please help.

    My oil has found a path to the outside world through my clutch cover (I think). I only have the problem when engine speed is high (like 70mph cruising), and my guess is that the carrier flings oil outwards at a higher rate the faster the engine spins. I ran about 40 miles on the highway today and damn near slipped when I pulled in to get gas from all the oil on my boot. I took her home, degreased her, rode about 20 gentle miles and am dry as a bone.
    This is the second gasket I've replaced after my new clutch last month (this time with the red Loctite sealer spray), and I'm running out of gaskets here. I'm thinking about trying a bead of black RTV. What do you think?

    #2
    You need to find out exactly where the oil is leaking from. Replacing the clutch cover gasket does nothing if it's coming from the base cylindr gasket.
    1978 GS 1000 (since new)
    1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
    1978 GS 1000 (parts)
    1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
    1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
    1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
    2007 DRz 400S
    1999 ATK 490ES
    1994 DR 350SES

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      #3
      Put some "talcum powder" around the clutch housing, and go for a test ride trying to get it to leak, you can then trace the leak by the powder trail.
      Dink

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        #4
        I reuse clutch cover, stator cover gaskets all the time, even when they tear and have no weeping. I use white Three Bond 2011 I think. Great stuff.

        Does your clutch cover have the screw at about 4 oclock with the rubber bushing?
        GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES

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          #5
          Originally posted by Carter Turk
          I reuse clutch cover, stator cover gaskets all the time, even when they tear and have no weeping. I use white Three Bond 2011 I think. Great stuff.

          Does your clutch cover have the screw at about 4 oclock with the rubber bushing?
          Hmmm. I traced it to the clutch cover gasket for sure with some dye, so I need to try something else. There are no rubber bushing to speak of on mine, but that 4 oclock spot is about where the oil starts to leak once engine speeds creep over 5 or so. I checked the fiche on Bandit and didn't see anything on there I don't have. Hmmm. Maybe I'll take it off and put a straight edge on it, see if I can't see why it won't seal.

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            #6
            I'm assuming both mating surfaces are free of old gasket material and the gasket is resting flush against aluminum on both sides.

            Maybe your torque sequence caused that area to "float" a bit. Also check to see if the case half mating area is flush.
            GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES

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              #7
              I'm warped

              Sounds like a warped clutch cover.
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                #8
                Originally posted by chef1366
                Sounds like a warped clutch cover.
                Yeah, that's exactly what I'm thinking. At least it gives me an excuse to use the machine straight edge I bought a couple of years ago. I used it once on a Prelude head last year that my pal cooked at the track. Between my friends and my bike my tool drawers don't stay closed for long.

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                  #9
                  Still Warped

                  Scrape all the old gasket off and see if it rocks on a flat surface. Hopefully it's not the engine case.
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                    #10
                    If the oil is all over his boot, wouldn't it be coming off either the shift shaft or from the bottom of the stator cover? The high speeds would blow the oil back onto his boot.

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                      #11
                      Try the timing/iginiton points cover on the right side...there is a seal under that cover behing the ignition hardware for the crank there that can fail...did so on my 81 GS750E. Fear not, the particular seal I speak of can be replaced w/o having to split the cases or anything drastic. The oil would seep through the seal at the end of the crank, out the little weep hole on the back/bottom side of the cover and wind up on the tip of my right boot. I can't give any more exact details, as I was new to motorcycle wrenching at the time and had the dealer do the work...hope that helps!!
                      Mike

                      1982 GS1100EZ

                      Text messages with my youngest brother Daniel right after he was paralyzed:

                      Me: Hey Dan-O. Just wanted to say howdy & love ya!

                      Dan-O: Howdy and Love you too. Doing good, feeling good.

                      Me: Give 'em hell, Little Bro!

                      Dan-O: Roger that! :)

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