Electric hijinks on 84 GS1100GK

[TwnsndWhln]

Hello all and a thank you for some great information, as I am a new member (and GS owner) and have already garnered information that helped me with some mechanical issues my 1984 GS1100GK had; i.e. carb and intake leak problems. Thank you Keith Krause, rkubik and Jethro.
Now that those problems were addressed I went for a nice ride yesterday (97 miles) and half way through electrical components started failing. First to go were turn signals then my tach stopped functioning (was still illuminated but no readings) and my headlight, both high and low beam stopped working.
Got the bike home to find my battery boiled over.
I have poured over many posts here on the site to learn about Stators, RRs and general charging system woes.
Electrical issues were never my strong points. I am sure I can change out the stator and the RR but to go through and check out all the electrical connections has me pretty down.
My question is will this seemingly daunting task be approachable for me? I have a garage and lots of tools but am wondering how long this will keep me from riding my beloved GS1100GK.
History of the bike is I am third owner. Previous owner gave me reciepts of repair work for fork seals, engine gaskets (top end), cam ends, tach drive seal, fuel sender, breather gasket, set valves and the infamous RR.
Bike road terrific and seemed fine mechanically until the charging sytem reared its ugly head.
Oh, and my main question, did I loose my headlights, signals, and tach completely or will they mysteriously raise from the dead when a new stator, battery and RR get replaced?
Thanks in advance for any help.

[TwnsndWhln]

Side note

I checked all fuses and all were OK.

[kalessin]

If your battery boiled over, then your regulator/rectifier is probably no longer regulating the voltage, but it's not too difficult to replace. Suzuki's genuine OEM replacement r/r isn't any good, and is overpriced to boot. An aftermarket replacement costs $90-120, and it's possible to adapt a used one (search this forum for Shindengen) that you can get off of ebay for about $20.

If you're comfortable with tools, then dealing with electricity just means using some different tools. A digital auto-ranging multitester is a great help; I have one from Radio Shack that folds up with its leads so it's easy to bring with me on the bike. The current version of it costs $30:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104114&cp=2032058.2032235.2032305&parentPage=family

The first test would be to refill and charge the battery (if it will take a charge), start the bike and test the voltage output at around 3500rpm. If it's more than about 14.5 volts, then you need a new r/r, but your stator is still doing the right thing.

The Stator Papers on the main GS Resources website (and threads here in the tech forum) can teach you how to diagnose the system, and plenty of people here can help explain things if you get confused. It really helps to understand the electric system so you can diagnose and replace the right part(s).

[TwnsndWhln]

Thanks for the reply Joel.
The previous owner had replaced the RR but I'm wondering if it was a OEM.

I think it must have fried a circuit since I lost my tach, headlights and turn signals.

The battery tested fine with plenty of amps and 12.68 volts.

I'll give it a shot and try testing at different rpms, which will be hard without the tach!

Thanks for the multimeter info. I'm going to pick one up today.

Steve

[GS550joe]

No tach

Well by ear if the rpms pick up you can watch the output change and before the motor starts to make a screaming noise it will be in the 3.5-4k range and the voltage should level off.. if the bike is putting out higher amps.. add running lights to sink some of the current off ( and help you to see better at night)..

Joe

[kalessin]

Your tachometer (if it's stock) is mechanical, power wouldn't be required to move the needle. If you unscrew the upper end of the tachometer cable, you should see it spin when you crank the engine (no need to start it when doing this check).

Oh, if you buy the Rat Shack folding multimeter I posted, it's great except that it has no clip-on leads, which are available cheap also from radio shack.

[Billy Ricks]

You can check you regulator/rectifier by following the Suzuki procedure below.

With the r/r removed from the bike, fins pointing up and terminals facing you, the terminals from left to right will be A, B, C, D, and E.
Negative probe on A and positive on B you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on C you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on D you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on E you should get 50-70 ohms.

Then switch the negative probe to terminal B and place the positive probe on A, C, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to C and positive to A, B, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to D and positive to A, B, then C, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to E, positive to A, B, C, and D should give no reading.

The numbers have to be within range. It doesn't take much of an out of range reading to lead to the wrong output.

Stator Test

The testing procedure for my 700, yours will be the same, involves disconnecting the three stator wires and running the bike at 5,000 rpm. You then place the probe of a multi-tester in each of the three wires. + probe in one terminal and - probe in another. Keep the + probe on the same wire and check the other two with the - probe. Then move the + probe to the next wire and check the other two with the - probe. Again + on the remaining wire. Check each of the wires against the other two this way. I'm not sure what voltage you should look for on an 1100, my 700 calls for 80 volts AC. You should get consistent readings on each attempt. These are the three yellow wires under the gas tank.You want to test the ends of the wires coming out of the starter cover under the carbs.

You can do a continuity check using the same procedure. With the motor off and the tester set to check for continuity check each wire against the other two. You should get a tone if the stator is okay as far as any breaks. You can test for shorts by testing each with one probe on the wire and the other on the frame. If you get a tone or meter reaction you have a short.

[TwnsndWhln]

Thank you all very much for responding. This site is great.

I got the tach working, it stock and mechanical. The fitting must have come loose at the engine. Is there supposed to be a seal or anything. I just screwed it back on with 'lock-tite'.

Billy nice job on explaining me through the RR test. Much appreciated! Its deinitely shot! I'm ordering a new RR, probably through Electro Sport. I'm still trying find out why the headlight is not working.

Borrowed my buddy's Yamaha V-Star 1100 for a few days. It seems to be a nice bike, but I have to be honest, I like my 22 year old GS better! Maybe I'm bias but my in-line four is so much smoother, I feel nice and upright and I love my self canceling turn signals and gear number display. His floor boards feel pretty nice though. Of course I test drove a Triumph Rocket III a few days back when I was bumming out with my down and out GS. Wow, what a bike. Kinda hard to swing it though so It'll have to wait.

Thanks again.