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Coils - Dyna or Suzuki?

  • Thread starter Thread starter UncleMike
  • Start date Start date
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UncleMike

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I've heard differening opinios regarding coils. Some say that Dyna is the best you can get. Some say that late-model OEM is much better than Dyna.

Any evidence, opinions or support? I'm looking to replace my stock, original coils on the 750T, which has the 16v engine that were leftovers from '82.

Mike
 
Depends on if you want to spend $25 for used or $150 for Dyna
 
If you bike is stock, and the coils on it are still good, then replacing them is pointless. On a stock engine, and given that the stock coils are still good, your going to be hard pressed to see any difference. It's yer money homey ;)
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
Depends on if you want to spend $25 for used or $150 for Dyna

See, I've heard it depends on a lot more than that. I thought I remembered BillyRicks saying that Suzuki OEM actually performs BETTER than Dyna.
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
Depends on if you want to spend $25 for used or $150 for Dyna
Yup, they both do the same thing. I had a set of Dynas and had one give up the ghost within a couple of years.
 
Hoomgar said:
If you bike is stock, and the coils on it are still good, then replacing them is pointless. On a stock engine, and given that the stock coils are still good, your going to be hard pressed to see any difference. It's yer money homey ;)

Then why do I hear so many people chiming in with how much better the bike seems to perform with newer coils? Better throttle response/idling/etc.
 
UncleMike said:
Then why do I hear so many people chiming in with how much better the bike seems to perform with newer coils? Better throttle response/idling/etc.
Because their coils were going south, or they had wiring issues or they modded the engine. If all is stock and all is well, you don't need them and wont notice it that much if at all.
 
UncleMike said:
Then why do I hear so many people chiming in with how much better the bike seems to perform with newer coils? Better throttle response/idling/etc.
One word, imagination. If they had a weak coil they might see a difference, but the stockers have always worked well for me.
 
In reality, very little ever goes wrong with coils. And they don't really fade, they either work or they don't. However, the wires and/or caps often go south before the coils, and on stock coils the wires are usually glued into the coil body.

The advantage of Dyna coils (or Excel or any others) is that your can replace the wires. Most of the time when someone says thier coil is bad, it's actually often just the wires.

As you said yourself, if it ain't broke...
 
I had a set of old coils and wires on an 1100. I picked up a set of coils for a 1996 GSXR on ebay for 15.00. I could replace the wirese easily and I can tell you the engine runs with more strenght with the updated coils. I also have a pair of dynas but I like these better
 
Jethro said:
In reality, very little ever goes wrong with coils. And they don't really fade, they either work or they don't. However, the wires and/or caps often go south before the coils, and on stock coils the wires are usually glued into the coil body.

The advantage of Dyna coils (or Excel or any others) is that your can replace the wires. Most of the time when someone says thier coil is bad, it's actually often just the wires.

As you said yourself, if it ain't broke...

So here's the question. Coils can test well but then not work at higher rpms, correct?

And how do you test if your wires are bad?
 
UncleMike said:
So here's the question. Coils can test well but then not work at higher rpms, correct?

And how do you test if your wires are bad?
One thing I can say is even though your wires are glued in from factory they can still be cut out, clean up the coils where they go in (a Dremel tool works great for this :) ) and then glue new ones in. BTDT. Not sure how to check wires to see if they have gone bad. But wires are cheap and never a bad idea to replace when old. Also the wires and connections feeding the coils are often suspect. Especially the ground.

Not sure but I would think they work or they don't and RPM should not matter. Sounds like an indication of another problem to me. Or if it is coil related then wires/connections.

If someone has a stock (non modified) engine and they claim a very noticeable improvement by replacing the coils with whatever, the reason was most likely due to under performing stock coils. Again, for whatever reason. If stock, coils and all wires and connections are good, replacing the coils will have little to no affect at all.
 
Last edited:
Hoomgar said:
One thing I can say is even though your wires are glued in from factory they can still be cut out, clean up the coils where they go in (a Dremel tool works great for this :) ) and then glue new ones in. BTDT. Not sure how to check wires to see if they have gone bad. But wires are cheap and never a bad idea to replace when old. Also the wires and connections feeding the coils are often suspect. Especially the ground.

Not sure but I would think they work or they don't and RPM should not matter. Sounds like an indication of another problem to me. Or if it is coil related then wires/connections.

If someone has a stock (non modified) engine and they claim a very noticeable improvement by replacing the coils with whatever, the reason was most likely due to under performing stock coils. Again, for whatever reason. If stock, coils and all wires and connections are good, replacing the coils will have little to no affect at all.

Understood. Thanks.

What's BTDT?
 
I bought Dyna ($92) after my 25 year old coils failed. The bike doesn't run any better than when it had functioning OEM coils. After 32 years of riding, and more than a dozen bikes (4 right now), I've learned that leaving the bike stock saves many headaches. If it breaks or wears out I'll replace it. The exception to my rule is Progressive Suspension fork springs whenever I have to service the fork seals anyway.

I bought it to ride - not to work on. If I need it to go faster, I should've bought a different bike.
 
UncleMike said:
So here's the question. Coils can test well but then not work at higher rpms, correct?

Dunno about that, but I've heard of coils that would test out fine cold, but start to behave erratically and fail as they heat up.
 
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