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    Is there a Carb Dr. in the house?

    I need some help, Ive actually got a 2 part question.

    I had to change out the head on my 82 750 16valve. I finally got it back together and it isnt firing on the #4 and the #3 seems cooler than #2 and #1 (which is real hot).

    Im getting spark and I dont have the wires crossed, the fuel bowls are full and i took the #4 carb as far apart as i could with it still on the bike, basically everything but the pilot valve (above the rubber plug). Nothing seemed clogged but the problem is still there. Im assuming i got something in the pilot valve system somewhere??? What else could this be, do i need a carb rebuild? Thats Q1

    Q2: Another thing, my # 1 cylinder side of the engine seems to get really hot. Now this was the problem before, and my cam bearing went above the #1 cylinder (hence the new head). I might just be paranoid and it might be cause the others arnt getting very hot, but that side of the bike gets too hot to touch with it idling about 5 min. I cleaned the oil holes out and made sure they were ok before putting the new head on. Could this be a carb problem also, maybe way lean?

    Im really stumped on this one. I hope that is enough info to go on.

    Thanks for any help guys.
    Last edited by Guest; 05-26-2006, 01:54 AM.

    #2
    Originally posted by ericox
    I need some help, Ive actually got a 2 part question.

    I had to change out the head on my 82 750 16valve. I finally got it back together and it isnt firing on the #4 and the #3 seems cooler than #2 and #1 (which is real hot).

    Im getting spark and I dont have the wires crossed, the fuel bowls are full and i took the #4 carb as far apart as i could with it still on the bike, basically everything but the pilot valve (above the rubber plug). Nothing seemed clogged but the problem is still there. Im assuming i got something in the pilot valve system somewhere??? What else could this be, do i need a carb rebuild? Thats Q1

    Q2: Another thing, my # 1 cylinder side of the engine seems to get really hot. Now this was the problem before, and my cam bearing went above the #1 cylinder (hence the new head). I might just be paranoid and it might be cause the others arnt getting very hot, but that side of the bike gets too hot to touch with it idling about 5 min. I cleaned the oil holes out and made sure they were ok before putting the new head on. Could this be a carb problem also, maybe way lean?

    Im really stumped on this one. I hope that is enough info to go on.

    Thanks for any help guys.
    There are several things that could be causing your problem with #4. Clean the carbs and make sure that every port and hole is clean. Have you checked compression, Valve clearance, Plug gap, Intake boots, Plug wire end caps and the normal things that could be causing the problem?

    Comment


      #3
      You have heat issues and non-firing issues. Since you recently swapped the cylinder head, first thing I would do would be to verify cam timing. Then I would check compression and last adjust the valves. After, I would verify that the plug wires and caps were OK and seated properly in the coils and that the wires were connected correctly. 1&4 fire from one coil and 2&3 the other. I would use NEW NGK plugs in the correct heat range.

      When that was done, I would remove the carburetors and totally disassemble them and soak them in carb dip for at LEAST 24 hours. Then I would reassemble with rebuild kits. I would also be very careful with the slide diaphragms as I see many not seated properly that come through my shop so this must be a common way for the amateur to mess up when he reassembles the carburetors. Last, I would make sure that jetting was appropriate for the pipes and airbox combo on the bike. The "hot" cylinders? Check carefully for air leaks in your intake manifolds and if there is ANY question on their condition, replace them. An air leak WILL hole a piston.

      You would do well to undertake troubleshooting in the general order I suggested because if one of the basic issues (compression or valve clearance, etc) are the problem, NO amount of carb tuning will do any good and you could potentially damage your engine.

      Comment


        #4
        I know the cam timing is on and I know the valve clearances are set and everything that went in was in spec. The plug is getting plenty of spark but I havent done a compression check. Ill give that a shot this weekend but it should be fine.

        The bike is stock so the jetting should not b a problem

        Looks like the carbs are coming back off to soak, I knew i shoulda did that. Ahh, hind site is 20/20. Either that, or in my infinite wisdom I hooked the coils up to 1-2 and 3-4 instead of 1-4 and 2-3 (heres to hoping its that easy)

        My boots look fine but I will do a leak check when i get the carb thing fixed.

        Thanks for the input.

        eric
        Last edited by Guest; 05-26-2006, 12:30 PM.

        Comment


          #5
          1-4 and 2-3 you mean?

          You mentioned jetting is stock, but is the pipe and airbox stock?
          GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Carter Turk
            1-4 and 2-3 you mean?

            You mentioned jetting is stock, but is the pipe and airbox stock?
            sorry, yes 1-4 and 2-3....ugg, glad its friday.

            The entire bike is stock as far as i can tell.

            Comment

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