powering the ingnitor

[Anonymous]

how do u power the ignitor? which wires? is it through the pick up coils? or thru the black/white wire on the ignitor and the positive terminals are powered directly by 12v?

[Anonymous]

The ignitor needs to be turned off by the key so you shouldn't connect it to the battery directly. If you are able to get it to work properly this way you'll probably lose a hand one day while turning the engine over with the back wheel. I can't think of anything on the bike that isn't turned off with the key come to think of it...even the brake light stops working.

The black/white wire is always ground from what I've seen on this website.

The pick-ups work via a magnet or whatever may be down there...they don't need any outside power.

[Anonymous]

im hooking it up directly only to test whether the bike is in working condition. where does positive hook up? what i need to know is if i put power directly the ignitor and the plugs start firing and theres a delay before the motor spins the engine is that bad? i know the starter button activates both at the same time but ive passed everthing except the ingition relay, r/r, and ignitor. note im not planning on doing anythign except testing the bike out, i will not be riding like this at all

[Billy Ricks]

If your color code is the same as my 700, you should have a black/white ground wire and and an orange/white wire going into the same side of the ignitor as the white and black/yellow coil signal wires. The orange/white provides positive charge to the coils and the ignitor. The white and black/yellow signal wires are ground for the coils. At any rate, whichever color wire goes to both coils also powers the ignitor.

[Anonymous]

alright thats the way i got it wired and its still not firing .

[Billy Ricks]

Do you have the plug for the signal generator hooked up? You can override it. Remove spark plugs 1 & 2 and ground them to the motor so they will fire when they get power. With the ignitor facing you, the plug on the right side of the ignitor is where the signal generator plug fits. The two terminals on the right side of that portion of the ignitor will be pin 1 at the front and pin 2 at the back. The two left pins will be pin 3 in front and pin 4 at the back. Turn the ignition switch on. With a multitester set a the X1 ohm range put the + probe on pin 2 and the - probe on pin 1. Plug number 1 should fire. Next put the + probe on pin 4 and the - probe on pin 3. Plug number 2 should fire. If this happens the ignitor is good and the signal generators are suspect.

[Anonymous]

i cant get the plugs out because my 5/8 deep socket isn't big enuff, anyone know what size the plugs are?

[Anonymous]

If your bike has a DR8 plugs it is an 18mm deep socket. You'll want to pick up a 3/8 drive socket so that it will fit inbetween the valves. If you can't get the plugs out just put a new pair of plugs in the leads so you can see what is going on.

Steve

[Billy Ricks]

18mm is correct, I just bought one yesterday.

[Anonymous]

alright, are bike plugs different from car plugs?

[Billy Ricks]

Not sure what you mean. They are basically the same, but you have to have the correct heat range and thread reach.

[Anonymous]

i just need extra plugs to test, im not actually gonna change em, does anyone know if i can get an industrial r/r somewhere to fit my bke

[Billy Ricks]

Other than the Electrex unit and the Honda R/R that a few people use, I'm not sure what else will work. Slopoke uses the Honda unit, he can tell you which bike model it is off of. They are suppose to work well and if you have a boneyard nearby you should be able to pick one up cheap. I think there are a couple of Suzuki units on ebay right now.

[Anonymous]

why couldnt u use an industrial one? all u need is one with 3 voltage ins?

[kz]

why couldnt u use an industrial one? all u need is one with 3 voltage ins?

Of course you can, look for the spec. and see that it matches the GS elctrical data.

Then it's all a question of knowledge how to mount and wire.