Won't rev above 5K... ??

[Druro]

Like the title suggests, my 83 1100es will not rev above 5K, regardless of gear or throttle input. I have done a valve adjustment and carb sync, for dealing with an unrelated problem. One thing i did not from this was the cam timing was one tooth out (21 instead of 20). Now, i reset that at the time, and noted that i can't rev beyond 5k anymore. The carbs have been cleaned, new plugs, etc. It runs a 4-1 Yosh, K&N replacement filter with airbox and lid.

Anyone have some suggestions fixing this?

[Blueandorangefish]

I've been going rounds with my bike having the same exact problem since I got it. Due to an unrelated "bang-clunk-sputter-die" issue with my engine I discovered that two of my spark plug wires were broken inside the boot, even though the cable was sitting pretty firmly inside the boot.

I realize from reading posts of much, much more experienced GSers that there are a multitude of possibilities, so this is just my two cents worth.

[Billy Ricks]

Like the title suggests, my 83 1100es will not rev above 5K, regardless of gear or throttle input. I have done a valve adjustment and carb sync, for dealing with an unrelated problem. One thing i did not from this was the cam timing was one tooth out (21 instead of 20). Now, i reset that at the time, and noted that i can't rev beyond 5k anymore. The carbs have been cleaned, new plugs, etc. It runs a 4-1 Yosh, K&N replacement filter with airbox and lid.

Anyone have some suggestions fixing this?

When you reset the cams which way did you move the chain? It should have been towards the cam chain tensioner with the tensioner removed from the bike.

[Druro]

When you reset the cams which way did you move the chain? It should have been towards the cam chain tensioner with the tensioner removed from the bike.

Just to clarify my earlier post, it was the intake cam that was out.

I aligned the timing marks off the crank with the cams. the exhaust cam was in time with the crank as per spec. I then removed the tensioner, and reset the intake cam, rotating it towards the front of the bike. Prior to buttoning it up, I checked my cam to crank timing, and everything was aligned... esentially, i lifted the chain and rotated the crank clockwise (as appearing from the right side of the bike).

[Billy Ricks]

Okay, here is how the cams should have been timed.

With the T mark on the timing rotor on the end of the crank lined up with the signal generator for 1 & 4, the rear one, you should have the # 1 arrow on the exhaust gear pointing straight forward and the upper head surface where the gasket sits. The #2 arrow should be pointing straight up directly at a pin on the chain. The #3 arrow on the intake gear should be pointing straight up at the 20th pin. This is all with the tensioner out and the slack in the chain to the rear of the block. Reinstall the tensioner with the shaft locked in its inward position. While the tensioner is out go ahead and check it for proper operation as follows.

With the tensioner removed from the cylinder block loosen the lock nut on the left side of the tensioner and back the slotted bolt out ¼ turn. Turn the knob on the right side of the tensioner, which in the Suzuki service manual is called a lock shaft handle, counterclock-wise. As you are turning the knob counterclock-wise push the pushrod all the way back. Keep turning the knob until it refuses to turn any further.

With the pushrod still pushed in as far as it will go tighten the slotted bolt so that the pushrod will not plunge out.

Remount the tensioner to the cylinder block. If the tensioner is not going in turn the crankshaft clockwise slowly to get slack in the cam chain on the intake side of the block.

Loosen the slotted bolt ¼ turn allowing the pushrod to advance towards the cam chain. Tighten the lock nut but leave the slotted bolt loose by that ¼ turn.
While turning the knob counterclock-wise, slowly rotate the crankshaft in reverse direction, counterclock-wise. This causes the chain to push the pushrod back.

Release the knob and slowly turn the crankshaft in the normal direction, clockwise. You should see the knob rotate as the chain becomes progressively tighter. If it does the pushrod is obviously moving forward under spring pressure signifying the tensioner is in good operable condition. If it moves sluggishly or not at all that means the pushrod or the slotted bolt is sticking. If so remove the tensioner from the block again and inspect the pushrod. It could need cleaning or could be bent or galled. Further crank rotation will take the slack out of the cam chain.

[Billy Ricks]

You answered while I was writing up the last reply. Did you check valve clearances while you had the cover off?

[Druro]

You answered while I was writing up the last reply. Did you check valve clearances while you had the cover off?

Yup... there was maybe 3 valves that were outta spec, but not by very much. The odd thing was that the engine spun freely in at both cam timings. I rechecked all the valves after recenting the cam.

[Billy Ricks]

Looks like a compression check is the next order of business if it spun freely.

[Druro]

yup.... going out shortly for that.

it does have 43,000 km... so it's not going to be fantastic... i did check initally when i bought the bike and they were all between 115 and 120 psi

[Billy Ricks]

yup.... going out shortly for that.

it does have 43,000 km... so it's not going to be fantastic... i did check initally when i bought the bike and they were all between 115 and 120 psi

That's getting on the low side of the limits.

[Druro]

Just checked them again, using the suzuki instructions (which i didn't use before )

#1: 160 psi
#2: 150 psi
#3: 140 psi
#4: 155 psi

Number 3 has me wondering if i've got my valves set too tight, as i tend to set them on the tighter side of the tolerence.

[Billy Ricks]

Just checked them again, using the suzuki instructions (which i didn't use before )

#1: 160 psi
#2: 150 psi
#3: 140 psi
#4: 155 psi

Number 3 has me wondering if i've got my valves set too tight, as i tend to set them on the tighter side of the tolerence.

It's better to have them a bit on the loose side but the figures are good enough that it shouldn't be your problem. Try testing your ignition circuit with the procedures I posted in this thread. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ad.php?t=90638

[Druro]

OK.. i feel retarded....

Took her out for a nice spin, and i guess i finally worked up the never to rev it proper like (she's big and loud.. frighted me)

Anyway, she revs up real nice... i'm just a bit of a tool. I guess I was also being careful as i know this bike could get me into trouble REAL fast.

Thanks for the help Billy