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    Trouble starting and Idling

    Ok I just finished installing a yoshimura r3 muffler and a dynojet stage 3 kit. Got it all back together and it fired right up and idled fine but after I turned it off it would not fire again. I can get it going if I spray a little starter fluid into it but then it will not idle. I turned the idle screw till it able to keep the engine running. At what rpm should the bike idle at? (cant remember what mine was, getting to late to run the bike, just a little loud now)


    Adam

    #2
    It should idle about 1,000 to 1,100 rpm's after warm up.
    I assume you run pod filters because you mentioned a stage 3 kit.
    Did you clean the carbs? Check float levels? Check for any intake leaks/manifold condition? Remove any float bowl vent lines? Bench synch the carbs? Vacuum synch? How many turns out are the mixture screws? Did you follow DJ's "base settings" or come up with something else? What settings/instructions did you follow?
    And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
    Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

    Comment


      #3
      Yes I am running pod filters. I did a total rebuild of the carbs (they are spotless), there arent any intake leaks, did a bench sync, mixture screws are 2.5 turns out, and I followed the instructions from dynojet on installing the jet kit.

      How do you measure the float levels? I put the each float back into the carb they came out of so I assume they are on if not very close.

      Are the float bowl vent lines connected directly to the bowls themselves? If so I do not have any on my carbs which are model BS34SS.

      Can you also post the link to DJ's base settings.

      One last thing I forgot to mention when I reved the bike to higher rpms it would back fire a little bit. Not real bad just sounded like little pops (but no backfire is always best)

      Thanks a lot

      Comment


        #4
        Do you have stock exhaust? The float measurement should be 22mm from gasket surface(without gasket) to the step down of the hinge part of the float. Measure both sides ot the float. Measure with the carb upside down with gravity only on the float.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

        Comment


          #5
          No I am running an after market exhaust, though I am not sure what it is. The previous owner had put it on. It is a 4 into 1.

          Comment


            #6
            Your jetting info supplied with your kit should suggest some "base settings",
            though they are rarely correct for some reason.
            Float levels are measured as chef said. No gasket, from gasket base to top of round part of float, not the arm/bracket. I don't know what measurement your manual calls for, but it's hard to trust any except the factory Suzuki manual.
            But if you had no problems with these carbs before the re-jet, they're probably OK?? I always check the floats as part of any carb clean/inspection anyway.
            Good chance you don't have any float bowl vent lines. Some CV's do. Besides the vacuum line to #2, any other lines would be bowl vent lines.
            When "revving the bike to higher rpm's" as you say, I'm guessing the pops you hear are deceleration pops? Hard to judge here, not being able to hear it. SOME decel' pop is acceptable. I've tried to get rid of decel' pop with larger pilots, etc, and it always seems to cause a worse problem. I accept some popping. Hard to say if yours is acceptable. It's a lean condition though. BUT, new pipes should always have new gaskets too. Good chance you've got some small header leaks. Re-torquing/uniform tightening may help, but all new pipes should get new gaskets.
            Also, it's best to vacuum synch the carbs. In my opinion, the bench synch only prepares for the vacuum tool synch. You may be lucky and get them close, but you don't really know. Then you can be mixing jetting with troubleshooting. With any uneven plug reads from uneven vacuum, how do you know which cylinder read to base jetting adjustments on? Performance will be uneven too.
            I've seen many people do their best bench synch, turn up the idle knob to what they think will allow it to start, and they just crank and crank 'til they half kill the battery. I've also seen people forget to plug the vacuum at the carb while trying to synch with the tank off or using a reservoir.
            With everything else you say is checked, I think the bench synch is off and not allowing it to start easily. Re-check your synch. What manual are you using?
            And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
            Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

            Comment

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