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    Clutch Problem

    On my way to work today my clutch cable decided to break. I was more or less able to make to work and home at the end of my shift by getting a running start and shifting without the clutch (not fun or good for the tranny). I got her home and pulled the cable and cover off of my project bike for a transplant, thinking that this would be easy and quick...I was wrong. After I got the cable and cover on I followed what the Clymer maunual said to do to adjust the cable and its just not right. Neutral is neutral, that's no problem. Any other gear the tranny is still engaged with the rear wheel. The bike lurches forward when I try to start it. Any suggestions? Did I do any damage riding it? Is this something that I may have to ride to finish the adjustment? What should I check next? Any thoughts?
    1981 GS 450L

    2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom

    The good we do no one remembers.
    The bad we do no one forgets.

    Mark 5:36 -- Overhearing what they said, Jesus told him, "Don't be afraid; just believe".

    #2
    You should have only a slight bit of play in the clutch lever. There are two adjustments, one on the lever and one on the engine. I turn the lever one almost all the way in and adjust on the engine for service. The lever adjuster then has a lot left for daily adjustments.

    There will always bit a bit of a drag while in gear, so I try to start in neutral.

    Comment


      #3
      If the clutch is adjusted correctly and you're still having a problem, your other cable might ber stretched beyond specs.
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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        #4
        The cable part doesn't seen to be the problem. It seems to be the adjustment in the side of the engine cover. The one behind the small cover.
        1981 GS 450L

        2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom

        The good we do no one remembers.
        The bad we do no one forgets.

        Mark 5:36 -- Overhearing what they said, Jesus told him, "Don't be afraid; just believe".

        Comment


          #5
          Three places to adjust clutch

          The three places you can adjust a clutch are at each end of the cable and on many there is a small set and lock screw inside the clutch cover. It sounds like you've got one. Make sure there is slack in the cable. Loosen the lock nut inside the clutch cover and turn the screw out until there is no pressure on it. Then turn it in until it meets resistance. Now turn the screw out 1/4 of a turn and tighten the lock nut. Make sure the screw doesn't turn when you tighten the lock nut. To adjust the cable turn the adjuster at the handle all the way in. Then use the cable adjuster at the clutch to take most of the play out of the cable at the handle. Then use the adjuster at the handle to fine tune the cable.

          From what you say happened and what you've done I don't think the adjuster inside the cover should need adjustment. You do need to adjust the new cable. Get it adjusted so that there is resistance after you've pulled the lever in no more than a quarter of the total travel. Once you've got it at least that tight get on the bike and get it in gear with the engine off. Pull in the clutch and see if you can roll her. If you can't then the clutch is probably hanging. Mine will do that after I've shut it off for a couple of hours. With the bike in first and the clutch in rock her forward and backwards as hard as you can and see if the clutch breaks loose. You can also try jogging it with the starter, but that puts a lot of pressure on the starter, starter clutch and chain and you should probably avoid it.

          Let me know how you're doing.

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