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gas overflow air screw adjustment???!?!?

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    gas overflow air screw adjustment???!?!?

    help gs1000shaftie back on the road ,
    #1,#2,&#3 appear to be running rich (black sooty plugs,) then it starts dripping gas from the air box, i disconnect fuel line and she runs like a scolded ape for a short while then runs out of gas. gas seems to be leaking from the vent tube between one and two. I know its to rich and ive done the following,
    =new o rings on carb connectors,
    =carb cleaned and float needles seem to be dropping o.k.
    =put silicon on intake boots to seal it off.
    =tried plugging vacum
    =and seting petcock up on a open flow with a simple on off valve,
    =new plugs 2 times
    I had short blasts of this shafties furry and after my custom painted tank came back, IM DIEING TO GET HER OUT ON THE ROAD HELP!!!!
    im really frustrated and need some help,
    are the air screw adjustments on the side if the intakke/car the same adjustment screw u use to vacume sink um? any other useful info please

    #2
    Sounds like float adjustment is off. Any mods?
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      1981 gs1000gl shaftie

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        #4
        Silicone does NOT work on intake boots. You gotta bite the bullet and replace them with new boots or it'll never run right and will overheat and hurt itself quite badly. Some have reported VERY temporary success with JB Weld, but it will crack and flake off pretty quickly.

        That's not causing your current rich condition, though -- it does sound like the float levels are not set correctly. Did you measure from the "step" in the floats or from the very top of the float? (The "step" is the correct place to measure.) This adjustment is crucial -- 1mm either way makes a big difference.

        Make sure that the little springs in your carb needles (the spring inside the needle that pushes up the little nubbin in the center of the needle) are strong enough -- some aftermarket needles have weak needle springs that allow the floats to sag when the carbs are upside-down, making it impossible to measure float height accurately. The weight of the float should not cause the spring to compress at all.

        Also, make sure the floats have not failed and become soaked with fuel. If you can find a sensitive scale or balance, they should all weigh the same.
        1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
        2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
        2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
        Eat more venison.

        Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

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          #5
          Great tip on weighing the floats, never thought of that. Lets see, where did I put those triple-beams from years gone past?
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by chef1366
            ...Lets see, where did I put those triple-beams from years gone past?
            We don't even want to know what that triple beam has seen! [-X

            ghwrenchit

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              #7
              I bought a triple beam last year, to weight hops for home brewing. Since digital scales have become common and cheap, I was able to pick mine up on Ebay for less than $20 delivered to my door.

              Tom
              sigpic[Tom]

              “The greatest service this country could render the rest of the world would be to put its own house in order and to make of American civilization an example of decency, humanity, and societal success from which others could derive whatever they might find useful to their own purposes.” George Kennan

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                #8
                I'm suprised I'm not in a perpetual flashback.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                Comment


                  #9
                  vents

                  if gas is dripping out of airbox, the carb air vents could be blocked - found that out the hard way.

                  There's little black plastic T-fittings between carbs 1&2 and 3&4. The center of the T must be open to the atmosphere or vent tube, not connected up to each other.

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