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Sh633 R/R Test

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    #16
    Thanks rustybronco for the circuitry.I'll start from there. Hope to have time to make it up before my electronic supplier goes on vacations (and it does it for incredibly long times.... good for him!).

    @GS550joe: I'm glad you liked this place, if you had the bike with you I hope you went riding along the country around here. All those nice countrysides in many US movies are shot in the inner south of Tuscany. I'm curious to know how long it took for a motorbike to be shipped from United States to Italy (unless it was within some military shipping)

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      #17
      Just to give some last informations:
      the piece is still working fine after a very hot summer!
      I have to admit I didn't stress it too much (little time for riding), but I was giong around with a voltmeter, testing it quite often.
      It gets quite hot very quickly, so I mounted it on an alluminium plate and put a little computer fan in from of it (I might post pictures as soon as I take some). The heat conducting paste between the R/R and the plate doesn't seem to interfere with the frame contact (it is a 5 wires R/R).

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        #18
        I'm reopening this post after a long time 'cause I believe the test can now be considered finished and the results can be useful for future generations :-D.
        I made a 2000Km trip this summer and the bike stopped half the way: battery down!
        I have to say that it was 45°C in shadow that day in the highway (113°F) and the little cpu fan I installed to chill the R/R broke a few hours before. All the lights were on during the travel (it's the law!).
        I retested the R/R with the multimeter when I got back (with a car battery inside the back trunk!:?) and I had the same Volts values I reported before for idle and 5000 rpm.
        I think there are 4 possibilities:
        1) too hot for the R/R circuitry to work fine.
        2) because of something the R/R broke on the way even if it now gives correct values (I retested the stator and is fine)
        3) the Sh633 isn't good for our bikes since it recharges too little even in long rides (but with lights on)
        4) I have a current discharge somewhere in the bike and the R/R is still fine

        bye


        Just for the 4th case: does anyone knows how to test for an eventual current leak? what should be the absorption of the running bike?
        thanks

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          #19
          I would assume the r/r overheated and shut down; kind of like what happens to home computer.

          I use this to monitor things while I'm on the road.

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            #20
            Originally posted by 82Shafty View Post
            I would assume the r/r overheated and shut down; kind of like what happens to home computer.

            I use this to monitor things while I'm on the road.

            http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...n&skuId=406777
            Sigh....
            A volt meter was SO on my list of things to get for my bike.... Stator failure beat me to it.

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              #21
              Originally posted by doctorgonzo View Post
              Sigh....
              A volt meter was SO on my list of things to get for my bike.... Stator failure beat me to it.
              My latest one threw me for a curve in regards to r/r's. The volmeter says she was charging fine but the bike broke up over 6500 rpms. Did the coil relay mod and it seemed to make the problem worse.

              What I discovered was that the r/r unit was commanding full on, full off in fractions of a second so anytime I brought my good meter near the bike it went nuts. The whole bike became one big RFI mess. This was not detected by a lesser Sears meter that had I first thrown on the bike to double check that it was charging. I told myself that I better use the good meter, not a fluke but a better DVOM, and double check my findings and viola, there it was. I disconnected the r/r and the bike was fine afterwards, nice and stable w/out a magnetic forcefield around it.

              I have a Duane Honda r/r being sent out.

              Thanks for following up with your findings btw. Perm mag r/r's definitely require a lot of surface fins to allow for proper cooling to take place and at 113F, it's hard to transfer heat. I had shy'd away from Ricks after seeing that it wasn't any bigger than my factory unit.

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                #22
                I'm going to replace my R/R when I replace my stator even though it tests good, it's of unknown origin and quality. My plan was to do as some have sugested and use one off a late model GSXR. Any thoughts on those?

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