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It's me....AGAIN!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter speedzter2000
  • Start date Start date
S

speedzter2000

Guest
Hello, everybody...
Justed wanted to update you on my carb re-build.
I followed the instructions to a "T", and even took the carbs out a second time because I forgot to clean out the air screw hole on #2...AND...did a double check JUST to make sure...
Anyway, got the carbs in, again :) and, of course, darn thing will die if I turn off the choke. However, all pipes are equally hot (ouch!), and when given throttle, sounds good, doesnt die unless I go below 2500 RPM. If I do, kaput. Does start right up though,(with choke on) and seems to run smooth. No backfiring, no sputtering...
Three questions: I did turn out the air screw 1 1/2 turns...should I try to go out another half turn?? Is this making it richer, or leaner??
Second, the nuts that hold on the throttle linkage...does that have anything to do with this?? Is there supposed to be any "slack" in the cable where it meets with the arm??
Last, how tight are the clamps on the rubber boots supposed to be on the airbox side?? If I make them too tight, they seem to make the carbs slip off/out...kind of frustrating...
I was hoping to go riding today... I FINALLY had the time to get things going, and again...I'm seriously thinking about getting rid of this damn thing...nothing but trouble, and over 900 bucks spent so far!!!
OH!! And I forgot, replaced the R/R....now bike wont turn over, and makes "clicking" noise on right side...
I know it's a lot to ask, but I am just so upset, frustrated, and ready to throw it off the cliff here....
Gosh, I need a beer ;)
Thank you in advance....you guys have helped me so much!!
~PS... I am using the search feature... I ALWAYS do....just a LOT to go through...
 
Out on the mixture screws richens them up. Adjust them for the best idle you can get. You should have a little slack in the throttle cable so when you turn the forks lock to lock the bike doesn't idle up. If tightening the clamps makes the carbs slip off then they may not be far enough onto the boots. Did you bench synch the carbs and have you vacuum synched?
 
BillyRicks,
I dont have the means to bench synch and all that :( sorry...I've been debating whether or not to bring it to a mechanic again... I dont have those tools, and frankly, just dont have the time, and patience anymore.
FWIW, the drama with this bike has been going on since March..... I'm thinking of taking them off again, and sending them to motorcyclecarbs.com and have them deal with it. I just want to avoid having the darn thing towed (or renting a van, paying someone to load it for me) AGAIN to be repaired by someone who really doesnt know what the hell they're doing...
Sorry for the rambling...I'm pretty !ssed off and frustrated...
Thanks for your help... I'm looking to get it running halfway decent, and bring it to someone who can synch it and all that...
 
All you need to bench synch is a thin piece of wire with a clean tip on it. Start with carb number 3 and set the throttle stop so the wire slides under the throttle plate with light resistance. Then using the individual adjusters on the other three carbs set the throttle plates to match number 3.
 
Ahhhhhh....THIS may be the problem.....
Damn, you're good!!
I had adjusted them til they where all closed...
Well, back to taking them out again:roll:
Do you think it would be in my best interest to bring them to a shop to use that manometer thing?? Or do the carbs have to be on the bike??
Sorry, I dont know a heck of a lot about bikes...BUT..I'm learning!!
Thanks BillyRicks!
Forgot, should the floats bet set to 22mm?? Is that correct for my 1980 GS550E?? The manual 21.4mm to 23.4mm will it cause trouble if they are all not the same??
 
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They have to be on the bike to do a vacuum synch. A bench synch if properly done will get you close enough that if everything else is in a good state of tune that the bike should run decent. Have the valve clearances been checked? There's no point in a vacuum synch if the valves haven't been run.
 
Ummm...valve clearances...? I kinda know what you're talking about, but does it matter that bike only has 6800 miles on it??
I also had a question again, edit above re: floats...
I'll look at my manual and use the search feature how to do the valve clearence check...
What about the clicking noise now (wont start) I am going to check the fuses....in a car, to me it would seem like a starter issue...
 
22mm is fine for the floats. If they aren't all close it can effect mixture slightly on each carb.
 
speedzter2000 said:
Ummm...valve clearances...? I kinda know what you're talking about, but does it matter that bike only has 6800 miles on it??
I also had a question again, edit above re: floats...
I'll look at my manual and use the search feature how to do the valve clearence check...
What about the clicking noise now (wont start) I am going to check the fuses....in a car, to me it would seem like a starter issue...
Click to expand...
If the valve clearances have never been checked you likely have a few that have tightened up and have lost the proper clearance. When the engine is hot they may not be sealing properly. The starter issue is the solenoid clicking but for some reason the starter doesn't spin. Could be nothing more than a weak battery or the starter needs to be cleaned up. Also check and make sure the ground on the engine is clean and tight. There is another thread from today on starter issues. They are easy to work on and while you have the carbs off would be a good time to check it out.
 
Hey speed, you live to learn and you learn how to live! Their is nothing wrong learning from mistakes. Take your time and follow instructions and take nothing for granted. The end result will be your own reward.



Hang in there!!!!!!! bmac


This is the best site with a support group willing to help with any type of
bike................ problem.
 
Billy Ricks said:
If the valve clearances have never been checked you likely have a few that have tightened up and have lost the proper clearance. When the engine is hot they may not be sealing properly. The starter issue is the solenoid clicking but for some reason the starter doesn't spin. Could be nothing more than a weak battery or the starter needs to be cleaned up. Also check and make sure the ground on the engine is clean and tight. There is another thread from today on starter issues. They are easy to work on and while you have the carbs off would be a good time to check it out.
Click to expand...

Billy, Just put in a new battery...will check the other contacts... I read somewhere here, and cant find it ....there is a good "grease" to put between contacts to prevent rust/corrosion...should I use vaseline?? Or nothing at at all?? I am going to go through the whole wiring since it is so simple (compared to a car)
I found the info to check valve clearances. Thank you. You've been very helpful. A big relief :)
 
bmac said:
Hey speed, you live to learn and you learn how to live! Their is nothing wrong learning from mistakes. Take your time and follow instructions and take nothing for granted. The end result will be your own reward.



Hang in there!!!!!!! bmac


This is the best site with a support group willing to help with any type of
bike................ problem.
Click to expand...
Trust me, I am very meticulous when it comes to something as so intricate and detailed as this m/c. I'm irritated because things didnt go my way. Sure you have been there!!:-D
And, I'm a female, my first motorcycle, and I think I've done a pretty darn good job considering all the previous circumstances.:-D Give the girl a hand ;)
 
Hey you go girl, you have my support and the support of others on this site I,m sure. I applaud your Blood,Sweat and tears, Get er done.Way to go!


bmac
 
speedzter2000 said:
Billy, Just put in a new battery...will check the other contacts... I read somewhere here, and cant find it ....there is a good "grease" to put between contacts to prevent rust/corrosion...should I use vaseline?? Or nothing at at all?? I am going to go through the whole wiring since it is so simple (compared to a car)
I found the info to check valve clearances. Thank you. You've been very helpful. A big relief :)
Click to expand...
Dielectric grease is what you are looking for. You can get it at Home Depot or Lowes. Most auto parts stores should carry it too.
 
speedzter2000 said:
I think I've done a pretty darn good job considering all the previous circumstances.:-D Give the girl a hand ;)
Click to expand...

Yes, you have done well.:-D
I'm going to hold you to those pictures though.:twisted:
Did you get the fairing on? How about the master?
 
Janice,
You have my admiration for doing this on your own. You'll get it worked out. Just stay at it and ask all the questions you need to.
 
Me 2

Me 2

Janice,

Hang in there. I was ready to set mine on fire at one point but these guys kept encouraging me and now I ride my GK 70 miles a day to work and back & hope to make my 3rd Texas hill country ride in the fall (with Billy, Hap, Leon and all the motely cru). Now if I could just get it to corner like an 1100E or Katana I'd be happy as a pig in mud.

Steve
 
Thank you Billy, 8Track and Giblet...
Giblet, I laughed at you wanting to fire yours up...literally.. :)
Billy, thanks...as always... I'm crossing my fingers!! You've got a lot of helpful knowledge which has helped me sleep easier...
8Track...didnt put on the fairing yet....I'm waiting to make sure everything works first..I also have to change the handlebars, for the first pair are too short and everything is binding....I am going to bring the new master cylinder and put it on at the shop, so they can bleed it for me... I see you guys have some problems with that ;)
I got the carbs off...again...argh!! floats are all at 22mm...I'm bench synching them now....
I found a guy who is local, for if all else fails, I'm bringing it to him...He says he has 30 years experience, and used to work for a stealership...(the same a$$holes who I brought my bike to in the first place). Trust me, he'll be given the third degree before I bring it there...hopefully, I wont have to...
Looks like another post (carb #3?...forgot, I put it together already) was broken and has been JB welded...I am hoping it's just a lot of scratchy stuff...:roll: just looks like a chunk was taken off, not broken all the way through...looks like a lot of "tap" marks...I took pics, but of course, my batteries died...
I hope to have running (for the billionith time) by Wednesday, if not...off it goes....
Battey is dead...again....this is #3!! I replaced the R/R...I'm hoping after putting it on the charger it will hold....
Thanks again, guys....
 
suzypost.jpg

suzycable.jpg

suzy4.jpg


suzy1.jpg


As been promised...forever!! Taken on Sunday...you can see the cables biding, and hopefully the post...
 
Janice, I see the problem. The clutch cable is routed wrong. I'm not sure if you can see it in this picture but, it runs under the guages between the left mount, and the left fork tube.
DCP03494.jpg
 
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