Float needle replacement for a 79 GS 1000

[Anonymous]

I have a stuck float needle. One of the "inside" carbs. Should I try to change it with the carb in place, or is it easier just to remove the carb bank? Any experience to share?

Thanks.
Dan Rice
Redmond WA

[SqDancerLynn1]

If you change the needle you should reset the float. It would be much easier if the carbs were removed It only take 10 minutes to take them off.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

You can get to bowl screws with a short enough screw driver or a phillips bit with hex shaft that fits a small socket for ratchet. The main thing is make sure of a good fit or you'll damage screws. Over the years I've had a few valve-needles get a 'burr' on the side and overflow fuel. Twice I just fixed with a slight hit with a file,and once the valve got stuck again so I replaced.($30.00) I never had to re-adjust float height. If the valve is grooved too much just below tip you must replace,or if the spring is weak.You may just have a piece of dirt on tip. If the float tab has never been adjusted to make up for a worn valve,then a new valve will assure you of correct setting.The float tab can get a slight pit from contacting spring tip but that won't make fuel level change significantly.The factory manual calls for a float height of between .90-.98''.('78,'79 1000)I set mine at .95'' so even losing a couple hundreths of an inch to slight/normal tip and spring wear,you're still in middle of range.Be extra carefull replacing the bowl,move it around slightly to be sure of good seating to gasket or it'll leak. KK.

[KrazyKarl02]

do it on the bike

If the 79 is set up anything like the 1978 GS1000 carbs leave them on the bike. It takes me about 20 minutes to get the carbs and 30 minutes to put them back on. The clearances between the frame and engine make taking my carbs off a real pain. I would do as stated above and try to remove the bowls in place with a screw driver, if you start to strip the head then take them off!

Just my 2 cents